Quantcast
Jump to content

Trooper Axle Problem!!!!!!!


iltrooper
 Share

Recommended Posts

Left side rear axle is pulling apart. It will pull the ball cage assembly out of the cup. I disassembled it last night. Found frame breakage at the swing arm anchor point and lower frame rail tube. I'm not sure how much play I should've found in the rear swing arm bushing, either. This is a used buggy I bought. It already had shock restraints on it. It's not been a very happy ownership yet!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinarfi is the expert on the CV Joint coming apart. He has had to deal with his serveral times. He will get back to you. Lenny is the supension guy and I am sure he also will respond. Plus others that have come on now with answeres. Hang in there, this is info you will find on here.

rocmoc n AZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Left side rear axle is pulling apart. It will pull the ball cage assembly out of the cup. I disassembled it last night. Found frame breakage at the swing arm anchor point and lower frame rail tube. I'm not sure how much play I should've found in the rear swing arm bushing, either. This is a used buggy I bought. It already had shock restraints on it. It's not been a very happy ownership yet!

After you get any cracks fixed, and every thing put back together, wrap some tape around the axle so you can see if it's making contact with the swing arm. If it gets scrubbed off, you need to shorten your limit straps. When I have my Trooper up on jacks, wheels unsupported, I make sure I have about an 1/8 inch clearance between the axle and the swing arm. If you take your axle apart to the point that you can measure the length of it and post it, some where it was said that there are some that were shorter and some longer, I don't know the measurements, but some one should. My problem was often the internal C clip would pull out of the axle bell at the wheel. What happening with yours?

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First, thanks Rocmoc for moving this string! I knew we were getting away from the main power switch topic and I didn't know how to move it. (Just a Newbie!)

Thanks Lenny for the links. I read thru them and maybe I have an idea of what to do here. I will try to get some good pics of my frame and control arm mount breaks. I'm also going to really inspect my control arms.

Another question I had was what should I expect from bushing wear in the swing arm bushings? There isn't another T2 Trooper for a couple hundred miles from me to compare.

Like I said earlier, I bought this thing used, based mostly on cost and the fact that I feel I can work on it. Besides, if you buy used it already has that first scratch thing done! I have repaired a non-working cooling fan (bad connector), fixed inoperative wench (power lead left off), diagnosed fuel guage problem (guage) , and replaced an axle in less than a 100 miles riding only to have the new axle pull apart on the first hard right turn with an open diff. I knew this poor old pony (2008) had been put away wet, just not to the degree I'm finding! On the good side, it is fun to just easily ride thru where the high dollar guys are having fits! When it runs and stays together it is what I was looking for.

Thanks all for your input, I'm learning alot in here!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My problem was often the internal C clip would pull out of the axle bell at the wheel. What happening with yours?

Kinarfi

Kinarfi,

I didn't answer your question! I guess I got on a rant!

Both axles pulled the ball and cage assembly out of the cup destroying the small snap ring that is just internal of the cup. (I should get a pic of axle less cup) I just appears to be way too much suspension travel. With the broken swing arm mount, cracked frame, and swing arm bushing wear I'm thinking the combination of the three is the core of my problem. I haven't disassembled the right side yet, I can check axle/swing arm clearance as you suggested.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't run the snap ring in my rear CV joint that you are talking about. The snap ring is fine for holding things together when you pull the axel but if the CV joint gets pushed past it's limits, the snap ring doesn't hold it together anyway. If everything is correct, the CV shouldn't come apart. If the axel end of the swing arm is moving away from the differential then the CV could easily pull apart when you get to the end of the suspension travel. Keep in mind however that I'm running 14.5" of suspension travel without problems, yet. It's been a couple of years now. It did come apart once but that was because my limit strap loosened and allowed the travel to go past the 14.5". If your going to fix things, do everything to correct the swing arm problems and be done with it for ever. Get a measurment on your axel length and we can check to see if it's one of the early shorter ones. Box the underside of the swing arm. Of course first get things back where they belong. Reinforce the main pivot points, thicken the tabs sticking out on the frame and re- do the bushings. One problem they have is that the threads of the thru bolt rest inside of the frame tab. Thats just asking for loosness to occur. I replaced my bushingws with brass bushings from the bearing supply. Got SAE bearings and machined the od to fit into the swing arm sleeves. I went with a 3/4' grade 8 bolt and made sure that the solid shank of the bolt rested in my thickened tabs on both ends of the sleeve. You can always washer under the head of the bolt or under the nut to get a stock bolt to work. You will have to cut the threaded end of the bolt off some to make everything work. Be sure to add greese fittings so it can be maintained in the future. Also when and if you change the suspension, be sure to move the lower shock mount as far to the outside towards the tire as you can to minimise the torsion the shock puts on the swing arm. My swing arm has no play whatsoever and it's staying that way so far for at least a 1000 miles of abusive running. I hammer mine a lot, ask Kinarfi or Rocmoc, both of which have ridden with me driving.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Lenny! I just spent the better part of the afternoon looking for parts. No swing arm bushings are available. I also listed a couple more contacts in dealer list, but I don't see them there now. Mine also has 1000 miles on it, unfortunately I've only got to put 100 of those on myself. The cost of being a tight-ass! I feel all can be fixed and hopefully affordable.

Hopefully by tomorrow I'll have more info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

:) OK, it's back together enough to take out and try! So far, so good! Hard left turn under power was how I pulled it apart the last time, so I repeted the move couple times with no problem. I couldn't do any ditch crossing right here without upsetting a neighbor, so will have to wait on that. Lenny, Rocmoc, and Kinarfi, thanks again for all the input. I'll probably drive you nuts with some minor electical questions in the near future!

I'll try to figure out how to post the pics of the broken frame soon. I was really surprised that I had NO swing arm breakage. I cleaned all the bushings after finding the steel sleeves froze in them, and installed grease zerks. With the sleeve floating finally, I really tightened the bolts. I had good movement in them without slop. While I was there, I replaced the axle bearing in the hub with taper bearings. I foolishly bought the bushings for the hub mount in the swing arm, but found I didn't need them. If anybody feels the want for them, message me. I re-assembled the axle, leaving the o-ring off of the inner bell. The rest of the job went well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone had problems with axles other then pulling apart? I was just pulling my trooper off of the road to park when I heard a loud bang and then no drive train. I checked the rear axles as that was were the sound came from and I found the left axle would just spin inside the cup. I had to drive the 25 miles back in front wheel drive as I had no rear wheel due to the spinning axle. I haven't had a chance to tear it down What happened anyone?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mauy Thai 1 & iltrooper,

Remember it is better to have great shocks & damping than to have tons of supension/shock travel. The travel does you no good if it is too much or out of control and pulling components apart. Kind of sounds like what is going on. As suggested before, adjust the limit straps down or better shocks with great damping. I went the damping route and do not have to run limit straps as the shocks are under control.

Good luck,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info gentelmen, I will be tearing into it today, hope it is fixable. I haven't tried new shocks but I will looking now. Was the Fox shock the 8.5. I have about 3500 miles on it now and I had hoped I had all the problems fixed other then it still wants to get warm if I run it down the road over 4000 rpm for awhile. Starting to think I may look at the Wild Cat if my Trooper is going to have issues. This is the second time I have had to limp it back and the Trooper doesnt operate real well in just front wheel drive.

I will post what I find and Thanks again for the help. Robert.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mauy Thai,

Doesn't matter who the manufacture is as long as it is a good rebuildable & re-valveable shock. What is important is the damping/valving. I had to change the valving to get the action I was looking for. Soft compressing & med-hard rebound. All this is mixed together with finding the correct spring rate. All my shock info is on the site here somewhere.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Travis
      The other day i removed my battery to check the acid level in it. It was still full. as i was reinstalling the positive cable the nut on the terminal stripped out. This battery uses a threaded insert that you slide into the terminal  the bolts screws into,  I was able to tigthen it up, but it's the kind of deal where if you kept turning it would get loose then tight, loose then tight. So after an unsuccessful trip to the parts store, tractor supply and hardware store, no one had what i needed, so then i did the smart thing and contacted Yuasa. Gave them all the battery specs and i now have new hardware kit on the way to me for FREE. For now  i have a small pair of  vice grips holding it, in case the bolt were to come loose while driving until i get a new hardware kit in. I did find the kit later on Summit racing, for $6. but hey, this is Free.
       

    • By Terry Winerberger
      The owners manual isn't helping as it doesn't look accurate. The bottom looks like an entire panel. Thanks in advance. 
    • By rangerstein
      The middle two tires on 6x6 are spinning. the drive shaft from middle to rear is spinning and the shaft from middle to front is spinning. I have the entire thing jacked up. When I first start it both middle tires will spin and the front two will spin for about 10 seconds. the rear tires do nothing. I can spin the rears wheels both forward or backwards at same time or one forward and one backward and vise versa. Is this normal. Do I have a rear differential broke or is something not engaging the shaft to the gears in the back. Would somebody please tell me how all the drive system works together so I can find something to fix of replace.
    • By Rick McGill
      I thought the problem was electrical but I just found this in the oil filler tube. Does anyone recognize the part? I know I'll have to tear down the whole engine, and maybe I'll find the rest of it in there. Something beg enough to seize up the engine. That was the problem I was trying to diagnose.... 'Cause it's locked up. 
      Thanks in advance.
      Rick
       

       

       
       
    • eManualOnline
    • By CYJSP2009
      Hello Everyone
      Brand new Joyner  CV AXLES are waiting to be unloaded at LA port and then be sent to warehouses in  Charleston, TN ,   BALTIMORE, MD  and Groveport, OH. Estimate they will be available for shipments to end customers in about 2-3 weeks. 
      These CV AXLES  are ordered in February this year and now it is middle July.  Very long time to get these parts.  Qty for each model is not big. Detail as below: 
      S/N                  Part No.                                       Description                    Charleston, TN     BALTIMORE, MD       Groveport,  OH        Total
      1            D650.03.02.02.00            650 Sand Spider Rear left              3                                     2                                           3                                   8
      2            S650.03.02.02.00             650 Commando Rear                       7                                     6                                          10                                23
      3            TR1100.03.01.03.00       TR1100 Front                                      3                                     3                                            4                                  10
      4            D650.03.02.03.00           650 Sand Spider Rear Right          3                                     2                                           4                                    9
      5            S800.03.02.02.00-R2    800 R2/4 Rear Shaft                         4                                     4                                            6                                  14
      6            TR1100.03.02.03.00     TR1100 Rear                                          6                                    5                                             9                                  20
      7            S650.03.01.02.00            650 Commando Front Left            3                                    3                                             4                                   10
      8            S650.03.01.03.00            650 Commando Front Right         3                                   3                                             4                                    10
       
      Below items are also available.  These items can be shipped in days
      CAGE:
      1. 800 Renegade R2/R4 Front outer cage  ---  5 pieces   
      2. 800 Viper SV1100 Drive shaft rear Left outer cage --- 5 pieces
      3.  800 Viper SV1100 Drive shaft rear left inner cage --- 3 pieces
      CV BOOT:
      1.    650 Commando Left Front / 650 Commando Right Front /650 Sand Spider Rear Left / 650 Sand Spider Rear right /  OUT CAGE            2 pieces                  
      2.    650 Commando Rear OUT CAGE              1 pieces                    
      3    Trooper Front / Trooper Rear / 800 R2 R4 Rear  OUT CAGE        2  pieces                   
      4    650 Commando Left Front / 650 Commando Right Front  INNER CAGE          1 pieces                    
      5    650 Sand Spider Rear Left /  650 Sand Spider Rear right INNER CAGE            1 pieces                    
      6    650 Commando Rear INNER CAGE           1 pieces                    
      7    Trooper Front / Trooper Rear / 800 R2 R4 Rear  OUT CAGE  INNER CAGE            2 pieces                    
      Anyone who need above items please contact me at  [email protected]  Thanks. 
      Other Joyner items needed, you can also contact me and I will try to help. 
      Have good day
      Casey / Leaf Asia 
      2021-07-20
       
       


  • Gallery Images


×
×
  • Create New...