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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Tommy2bits
Just bought a brand new 2022 (NOS) Sector E1 with Lithium upgrade. (Single 135ah/200amp continuous). I've climbed a moderate hill in my woods probably 20 times since buying it. Today It won't climb it unless I am in Low. In High it almost makes it and then completely dies and I have to roll back down the hill. In Mid range (Max Range) I can't get 2 feet up the hill and the power output in only 100 amps, I have climbed this hill in every speed before many times. I put it on the trailer tonight and it wouldn't even get on the dang trailer in mid range. Torque is gone. That being said, when I am just cruising around in Midrange, it runs absolutely perfect with plenty of power. The only thing I did was charge it up, that is all. I charged to 100% using the charger that came with the battery. Before you think the BMS is shutting down due to overcharge protection, remember I am going UP hill so there is no regeneration AND I have done it before at 100% charge AND another big problem is that after 1 mile it is already down to 85% so it's not over charging and why is the battery draining so fast when I got 27 miles before. Battery output is fine in Low it pulls 200 amp up the hill just like normal so that doesn't point to the battery being the issue. All the individual cells on the battery are in line, so there is no dead cell either. I am tech savvy but to toward electric motors and I tried to cover all my bases. Please don't tell me basics like torque is reduced in High and Mid. The only thing I can think of is that I smelled something when I took my first drive today and I thought it was the Ebrake dragging but there was the correct amount of play in the cable and I jacked up the rear wheels and they spin freely. maybe something burned out in the motor, I do not knowm still runs great, we'll see if I have any trouble on the hills at the lake house this weekend. Maybe this is "Normal" and the settings were off before and was giving equal torque for whatever reason instead of 50% in Mid and 70% in High like the manual says....
For reference....this is it not even able to get on the trailer in mid range
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By Recon Marine
Ran fine parked it in garage and 5 days later would not start or make any noise trying to start. Bought new battery, installed it and still nothing, no noise or anything.
Any idea? I can’t figure it out since when I parked it, it was running great.
Thanks
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