Off road light bar wireing
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By redneckred
Got a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700x (I believe) from a neighbor that had it sitting in his yard undisturbed for over 2 years. We pulled it across the road to my house with the transmission stuck in low. I tinkered and discovered the fan gear assembly had frozen up from not being used, specifically the part that slides/turns in the housing. After freeing that up, the transmission shifts fine. I put a fresh battery on it and discovered 12.2 volts going to the solenoid, and with the key in the on position, 12 .2 volts on the starter side of the solenoid without turning the key to the crank position. I discovered at the starter the same results of a constant 12.2 volts in the on position. Cranking, the voltage on the starter side of the solenoid and at the starter drops to 11.72v. Shouldn't there not be any voltage on the other side of the solenoid or at the starter if the key is not in the crank position? And with the constant voltage at the starter and it not turning, isn't it safe to assume the starter is frozen/burned out?
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By Weber
Hello. Can anyone provide location of fuel pump relay switch. According to the tech at Massimo it is not in the fuse/relay switch box but mounted near the fuel pump, but I am not seeing it. Pics would be appreciated also and thank you in advance.
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By Greg Kilgore
We all know summer is hot inside the cabs of our SXS. So I've rigged up a couple of fans to help cool down the cab.
I didn't want to drill the fan's "support rails" into the ROPS (Roll Over Protection System), aka roll bars. So I used water clamps to hold them in place.
I just need to replace the wires I ran with bigger gauge. Then finish the wiring to switches, relays, and battery. But the hardest part. The actual mounting of the fans is complete. Also just in case anyone plans on doing this. I may have to only use 1 fan in the middle instead on 2. Due the the draw on the battery.
The fans are 12", 12V 80W. So I'm figured they were 6.7 amps apiece. Used the WAVe formula to get unknown values Watts=Amps*Volts then solve for unknown. I know the watts and volts from sticker on fan. So just used above formula to get amps. So a 7 amp fuse should be OK and a 10 amp fuse will be good.
So pulling 14 amps from the battery all day may be too much for the charging system to keep up with. And I haven't even installed the radio yet. So I will have to test and let you know.
See pics below.
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By TomW
I was driving the UTV the other day when it simply died. I was using the sprayer which might have drained the 3 year old battery and the stator didn't recharge it. I towed it to my shop and charged the battery . The next morning it cranked first time and I drove it home . I parked it and turned it off . I then tried to crank it and it would only make a weak click noise . I changed the battery and the voltage regulator but it would still only click. I noticed on the digital display that the reverse light was illuminated and would stay illuminated no matter what gear I selected . If I put it in low that light would light but the reverse light stayed on . Same thing for neutral . I shorted the two poles on the starter solenoid with the key on and it cranked up easily and idled fine. You could put it in reverse and it would move backwards and you could put it in low and it would drive forward. The entire time the reverse light stayed on . I checked the fuses and they all looked good . So lets say I get a new started solenoid . If I replace it and it now starts with the key what is the issue with the reverse light . Is it harmful? What else needs to be done to correct ? Any ideas out there.
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By Sommer Wildes
TLDR (too long didn't read) in blue for quick scanning
Hey all! I'm new to the Side-by-side/UTV world. We own a smallish farm and decided to go with the 2021 Tracker 800LE Crew. We like the seating and the ride is smooth. However as a newbie I have some questions that maybe some of you longtime side-by-side/UTV owners can help with. We're still in the "break-in" period and it seems that after 30 min or less of driving the dash area gets super hot. You can feel the heat waves coming off the floorboard by your feet and my phone sitting in the little hole (where a radio might go) felt like I left it in the hot sun for too long. The glovebox was also way too hot.
So the question is, is this normal, or should I start checking engine coolant and filters? We literal have had it a day. I have read forums and looked up info and can't find anyone mentioning this issue. I just don't want to burn the thing up before we've even put it through it's paces ya know!
Thanks for any help!
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