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Trooper lift kit


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Welcome to the forum.

Before you get busy and do a lot of work, put the Trooper up on blocks and then support each wheel, one at a time and drop one end of each shock and then see how far down it will go while turning the tire and feel for the CV to start binding. I think the Trooper has all the it can handle until you start lowering the differentials.

Explain what you intend to do and I'm sure someone will comment on your ideas.


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I assume you want a lift because you are hanging up on stuff. The easiest way is larger tires, but I'll bet you already have larger tires. The next think I would recommend is fabricating a smooth/flat skidplate covering the entire bottom. The exposed tubes and screws hanging out of the bottom hang up on everything.

If you really need a suspension lift you will have to do what Kinarfi said. I believe there is about an inch or more of lift to be had if you just fabricate lower mounting brackets. If you want more than that you will probably have to lower your front differential. You can probably get 2 inches in the rear with the diff in the stock location since the CV's don't have to turn.

You will first need to get the measurements Kinarfi mentioned. You can push your CV's as far as you feel comfortable and they don't bind. The rear should be straight forward. As a matter of fact if you find you have a couple more inches you can raise the rear, I would just get a longer shock.

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I have 14-1/2" of travel both front and rear. to get this amount, I had to lower my rear diff so the CV hats were about 1/4" above the frame tubes. Then of coarse change the suspension around to get the full available travel. I go to within about 1/4" of travel, at wheel, from the CVs starting to bind. I havn't had any trouble with running it this close.

With the swing I'm getting with the axels, going longer wouldn't require a whole lot of extra length to get additional heigth. I would be inclined to put the wheels on backwards with the set back on the outside rather then on the inside. This would take the longer axels without widening your stance if that is a concern. I'm about 70" overall width which seems to not be a problem but I'm not sure I would want to be any wider as some trails might get too tight. Of coarse I can't run the 50" only trails and if I try, I end up having to turn around at some point. Not easy when your squeezed in narrow. If I set my suspension up high, I can get about 16 to 17 inches under the diffs. Thats with 31" tires. another approach would be to go to high angle CV joints. This might be less involved but they, like axels, are still expensive. This would only require shock changes and a slight swing arm change so the axel doesn't hit. Getting more swing out of the front is more involved but I didn't have to lower the diff.


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