HELP-Trooper T4 won't start

[petethedog]

OK. I have read most of the posts on here concerning this issue and have tried about everything. Checked:

1. Fuel Delivery-Has full fuel tank, fuel pump fine, good pressure, fuel at injectors good
   
2. Spark-Good spark at all 4 spark plugs
   
3. Sensors-Disconnected blew out all connections, tried starting by disconnecting IAC, Oygen Sensors,
   
4. Fuses-All fuses are good
   

Any ideas? It is getting fuel and spark should fire. Lacking air in the cylinder? Something stuck shut? Earlier it was starting hard then ran fine once warmed up. Occasionally would surge at idle to about 3000 RPM, I shut off and would reset and idle fine. Adjusted idle with idle screw to 900 RPM and ran fine just hard starting when cold. Starter fluid does nothing.

[bigdan120]

I would check timing just for the heck of it...Mine was off 4 teeth when I got it...Wouldn't start correctly and had to have pedal half way to keep it running...Also wouldn't rev.

Belt was fine must of slipped by either them maybe trying to pull start it or just got wet....Who know's good now though.

[Guest Lenny]

Do a compression test. Post your findings.

Lenny

[petethedog]

Compression good. Disconnected the IAC and tapped on the throttle body, injected starting fluid and floored it while starting. Took a bit but started and once warm runs fine. Starts fine warm as well. I think the timing might be the issue. I will search this site for timing check and adjustment info or if somebody has a link please post. Thanks a bunch. Steve

[bigdan120]

Doubt it is the timing then......The timing is computer adjusted after the initial timing is set..I guess it might be possible...Mine ran like the exhaust was plugged....

[bigdan120]

If it don't start on either sounds like timing...But if it runs normal after it is warm kinda strange.....You just pull the covers off the back and line up the marks on the pulleys. The bottom one is hard to see while the rad is in but you can do it...

[petethedog]

We'll see what happens after it has sat for awhile and cold.

[bruhaw]

What were your compression readings? As long as around 140-150 and not huge variances you would be good.

[petethedog]

Not 140-150. They were 75, 125, 90, 90.

[bruhaw]

Are you cranking it until you get the highest reading. Should be 5 cranks or more. If so, then the compression is real low and the variance between two of your cylinders is 20% and that is not good either. T

[Guest Lenny]

If that is your compression, that is your problem. Time to rebuild the engine. Did you ever change out teh stock air filter?

Lenny

[petethedog]

OK, I will check compression again cranking it 5 plus, don't remember how many cranks I did. I put a snorkel on up and out of the dust, but the same filter. Bigger filter? Not enough air? Have a feeling I need a rebuild. Suggestions as to who to send to? Where to get rebuild kit? Thanks.

[bigdan120]

Were you from?

[Guest Lenny]

Stock filter was worthless. It let an awful lot of dirt thru.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

Not 140-150. They were 75, 125, 90, 90.

http://news.webshots.com/album/579615789hVkbMJ

Those are ugly number, about same as I had before I re ringed my motor, I did do a valve job at the same time which may not have been needed. PM me if you'd like to talk.

If you coast down a hill or are towed by another vehicle, will it start and run fine until the engine cools off? That's how mine acted. but it would not start via the starter.

[petethedog]

From Billings, MT, filter is a K&N style out of dirt with sleeve, I suspect engine was dusted before I got it. Where can I find an engine rebuild kit? Will watch it, but think that is indeed the case. (Yes, that is the case......thank you all for the help trouble shooting)