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anyone know where to put in an aftermarket temp sender ? i assume the original sender has to stay in place for the EFI system. i dont really trust the OEM gauge. i took several temp shots with an infared thermometer and it never reads as hot as the one on the dash and i would like to have confidence in the temp reading.

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anyone know where to put in an aftermarket temp sender ? i assume the original sender has to stay in place for the EFI system. i dont really trust the OEM gauge. i took several temp shots with an infared thermometer and it never reads as hot as the one on the dash and i would like to have confidence in the temp reading.

You can put a sensor next to the one in the front of the head. Take othe original one out and you can see where you can drill and tap for another.


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Coming from someone who makes his living reading and inturpreting gauges, I understand your necessity to feel like you can trust your gauge reading. Only thing I would offer is that infrared readings are usually 10deg F lower than actual internal temp. This is of course just a rule of thumb, material type, thickness, exposure duration, ambient temp, etc, all influence the differential, but adjusting by 10 gets you in the ball park with most steel piping. Secondly, for observational purposes, you just need consistency in the gauge out put. If the OEM gauge reads steady and reflects temp changes, then you have a relative reference. Even if it says coolant is at 200 when really it is at 220, that's ok as long as it indicates a rise or fall in temp. Now if you are doing in depth diagnostics it becomes increasingly more important that the actual reading accurately reflect the actual temp. So I guess it all depends on what you are looking to achieve. Only reason I mention it is because when you start talking about drilling and taping the head I get nervous. Not knocking the method, it's solid advice and I trust anything Lenny has to say about mods/repairs on these. I just worry about getting the cooling passages clean of metal cutting dabree after the drill & tap while the head is still on the motor. Not being able to flush and blow all the chips out with out washing them further into the engine.

Just food for thought, and I may have missed some info here that puts me totally off base. If so, ignore me :)

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Merchant mariner,

I agree i don't like tapping when i don't need to i would find another way and i agree with your thoughts about how gauge needle position is relative to the engine temp is good where it say medium for all time is not good lol....now this is a nice trick i learned for tapping when you have to tap and have no way to flush lime for example i had to tap and insert steel threads in my brother's aluminum head spark plug holes without removing head at all.

What i did was PACK THE DRILL BIT AND TAP FULL OF GREASE and do it very slowly replace any grease that get saturated/coated in metal shaving.

Grease is like glue for debris and metal shaving in my option

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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You can buy an adapter that goes between the thermostat housing and engine block. The renegade engine has this insert for some reason and the trooper does not. You will have to pull the hose barb out and then tap that hole for the adapter fitting for the gauge. This way you are not going into the engine block. Search this forum and you find my posts on this. I felt the way you do and put it an autometer gauge and feel much more comfortable now. EBay has the adapter at least I saw it a week or so ago.

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I guess I should have mentioned the shavings. If you feel in the existing hole, you will see it is flat below the drill and tap spot so the shavings stay just inside the hole. With a little patients, I was able to fish them all out and feel confident I got all of them. I then took a shop vacume and vacumed out one hole while air sucked in the other. Point is well taken about not wanting to get any shavings in the coolant jacket. Glad you brought it up.


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