Jump to content

4x4 switch


Recommended Posts

a lot of people don't like the electric set up for 4x4, if you get to it soon enough and seal it real good, the work fine.IMHO, if you don't, moisture gets in and eats up a copper trace or two and shuts it down, I had to repair mine and then I sealed it and no problems for the last year or 2. There were some pictures of the circuit board, but the website that has them is shutting down in Nov. so they should still be there, If you want, you can send it to me and if I can fix it, I will, mostly just for the cost of parts & postage and if it's shot, I'll tell you.

I thought that when they failed, they defaulted into 4x4, do you hear it operate when you push the button?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The default part is in the differential itself. The pin that moves the engagement ring is spring loaded to put it into 4x4 when the pin is releassd. The problem is that unless the electric engager quits working when in 4x4, it could still be holding the pin, preventing the spring from doing its job. If thats the case you would have to remove the electric engager before it would default into 4x4.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By pchow
      This just started happening a few rides ago. 4x4 and full lock were working fine. Now it won't go into 4x4 or lock. Took the servo motor off and it turns and operates just fine when I press the 4x4 button and lock button so I know its not that. Been doing some research and people seem to be saying that the slider (picture with red arrow pointing to it) should be all the way to the right for 2 wheel drive, middle for 4x4 and all the way left for locked. I tried pushing it to the left and it won't move any farther than what you can see in the picture. Seems like it's hitting something. It'll move all the way to the right, but I can only move it about 1/4" to the left (where it is in the pic now). Been trying to find an exploded view of the front diff with no luck. The Yamaha parts diagrams don't even show this slider as a part (diagram I have attached).

      Couple of questions. Anyone have an exploded diagram of what the front diff parts should look like for a 2009 Rhino 700 FI
      Special Edition? Some people say there should be a "fork" that the slider moves but I can't see that on the parts diagram either. Is my pic with the blue line pointing to the fork? Anyone with any ideas? Would like to get my 4x4 working again so I can do some snow wheeling soon.

    • By Hisun .500
      So my hisun 500 is tore up and all the wiring is wasted i was wondering can i pull out all the wiring and just put in the. Basics .please help
    • By wes treleaven
      Hi all, New member and new joyner trooper owner here.
      Just picked it up yesterday. I worked for it. -40C here in Winnipeg, Canada loading it into a trailer. Unit was too tall. Some ratchet straps, recopricating saw and a lot of F^#ks. 
      Anyway she came with a broken front driveshaft. One of the ears was cracked off. I have a replacement but i am unsure how the driveshaft comes off the transfer case. 
      Doesn't sem to pull off or have any way to remove it. Any suggestions??
    • By Rick McGill
      I thought the problem was electrical but I just found this in the oil filler tube. Does anyone recognize the part? I know I'll have to tear down the whole engine, and maybe I'll find the rest of it in there. Something beg enough to seize up the engine. That was the problem I was trying to diagnose.... 'Cause it's locked up. 
      Thanks in advance.


    • eManualOnline
    • By James Leonard
      Bought a 2006 rhino 450 this summer.  Previous owner stated it overheated, he kept running it until it stopped, and then he couldn't start it again.   When I drained the oil, it was bad, very milky, very thick.  I poured diesel into the dipstick hole with the drain plug installed, let it sit overnight and then drained.  It did this a couple of times. 
      I rebuilt the top end (new jug, piston, rings, all gaskets, valves, springs, etc) and the water pump.   Of course I added new oil, filter, and new coolant.  I did use the coolant bleeder screw to get it properly full.
      Got it running and zipped around the yard a few times.  Parked it and as I was listening to the motor, I hear "tap tap".  Shut her off and checked the tappet clearance.   As I was adjusting them a few thousandths, I notice the oil around them is milky.  Checked the dipstick--milky!  Aarrgg!  I did notice that the coolant was an ounce or so low, but I thought that could be due to air in the system after drain and refill.  
      I second guessed myself and put on a new head gasket, rebuilt the water pump again, refilled everything.  Got her started, zipped around the yard a few times.  Parked, shut off, checked the dipstick.  Milky again!
      No smoke out the tailpipe.  No sweet smell like coolant burning.  No oil burning smells.
      Did I overlook something in the rebuild?  Where could the milky oil be coming from?  Is it possible that this is residual from the previous owner's mess?  Should I just assume it will take a couple of oil changes to get everything back to normal?  I'm at my wits end.
  • Gallery Images

  • Create New...