Quantcast
Jump to content


Mule 610 Hours Meter


mule610

Recommended Posts

The hours meter does not work. I understand that the power comers thru the ignition switch. I have two green/whites wires going to the meter and no current is at either wire. Is there a fuse somewhere in this circuit? Any other ideas/help will be appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Oldman
      Ive got an American Sportsworks BD-200.  I can’t get the ignition switch to work, but if I cross the solenoid, it starts right up. Runs great.  Can anyone send me a simple wiring diagram for a switch and where the 3 wires from the switch go!   Any help is greatly appreciated!!!   Thanks!     


    • By Pop Bob
      While adjusting my suspension, I noticed an unused two wire connector on each side just hanging loose. Anyone know what they are? Nothing in the manual about them. 
    • By Gorj
      I am having an erratic issue.  Sometimes the solenoid/relay does not activate when switching on the power.  Thus the electric motor does not work. You can hear the solenoid activate because it is right under the seat in the middle. The solenoid/relay connects the batteries to the electric motor circuit. When it fails at making the connection I get a 54C3 code on the display.
    • By Steve B
      My "R" light on the dash will not go out when I take the UTV out of reverse and put it into any other gear. Is this just the light switch issue or will this effect engine performance in the other gears?
×
×
  • Create New...