rear diff

[toddlong]

ok well my locker was nt working properly so i tore everthing apart and found that the two gears that was side by side where the gear slides over top of them to engage it had a lot of play in it took the bolts out of the ring gear to find out that 2 bolts was snaped and that most of the rest of them was worn or deformed .... what is the upgrade kit consist of and i m going to get new bolts tomm from tri corps or fasten all ...i have another rear end that i am using parts from that the two gears are very tight on

[2scoops]

Yeah get new bolts & lock tight the hell out of them. If you can safety wire them also that would be even better if you know how to properly safety wire. The kit has upgraded bolts which Lenny machined the heads on and shims. The biggest upgrade being the bolts & liberal use of high temp lock tight.

The stock bolts wiggle loose then shear off. If they stayed tight no one would have issues most likely.

[toddlong]

red lock tight i got napa to order the new bolts today and yeah i m pretty sure i can drill some holes threw the new bolts and wire them up .... i was disappointed when i found out they did nt have anything harder than a 8.8 the only ones i could find in the right thread was to big of a head ....

[Kinarfi]

Are the head 10mm and shallow? Regular bolt heads won't clear, search for McMaster and follow them, I did a right up on what you need and how to grind the heads down to clear, Red lock tite is good, but yellow is a better. Find the post that says to use shanked bolts and there are instructions in there too. good luck.

Jeff

96144A227•

[toddlong]

the heads where 13 mm and i had to cut the inside of heads off of them to make them all clear properly i was going to use a socket head bolt but could nt find any in the right thread count

[Kinarfi]

http://www.mcmaster....290a442/=r9pc48

order these, they're 12.9 and the shank extending through the spider to the ring gives more shear strength and you put the bolt in a drill and spin it while you grind the head down a little for clearance.

[toddlong]

those read as a 1.25 mine was between a 1.0 and a 1.20 the 1.25 would only start to thread it about half ways and then become difficult to turn by hand the 1.2 and 1.0 threaded in all the way is this the same case with yours just a ? not doubting anyone

[Kinarfi]

can you post a photo of your bolts, mine were the fine threat, seems maybe they changed something, mine is an 08, what's your's?

[toddlong]

it is an 2008 as well and i tried tri core ... fastenal and napa .... IRC in ohio is where i got the right bolts .... but the head was a 13 mm vs a 10 so i had to cut it down

sorry i did nt take any pics it is back together and locking in and out and running smooth

[toddlong]

fine thread

[Kinarfi]

good for you!!

[toddlong]

i think i m going to order those bolts you put on for the front end

[Kinarfi]

Get some loctite too http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2795-tapered-roller-bearings/?p=16079 this is what I used on my bearings, but it's probably good for your diff too.

And while I'm here, may I suggest that every time you have a wheel of the ground, push and pull on the top of the tire and see how much play you have.

IMHO the two worst problems with the Trooper are the diffs and the wheel bearings, get the roller bearings, repack the grease and loctite them in place

[toddlong]

blew a wheel bearing and sheared

the axle thread s the other day a 1996 honda accord front axle nut threads right on to the new axle being how the ebay store did not suppy a nut

[toddlong]

order the bolt you said to Kinarfi they seem a lil long did you do any thing other than grin the heads down??

[Kinarfi]

I don't think so, they don't interfere with anything, so I left them as is. And if you want,you can put lock nuts on the back side, like Lenny says, but I didn't.

[toddlong]

ok was just wondering have you had any problems with your since you ve done it how often do you check it ... i m going to change y oil tomm and check for any metal and take it back aprt if needed

[Kinarfi]

I had a couple of bearing fail, but I got right back on the road because I had most of a spare and it had the right parts in it. I like the idea of the shank on the new bolts extending through all the separate pieces so you don't have a place for shearing to start, plus this is the strongest bolt you can buy, 12.9, and NO, I haven't had any problems since. I think if you get thing tight and loctited, you can put it on your do not worry list, you did read about Lenny's instructions to sand all mating surfaces radially, right?

[toddlong]

no i ve read alot of yours and lennys stuff i never seen it though

[Kinarfi]

Make sanding scratches on all the flat surfaces that mate up so the loctite has little groove to go into and sand from center out wards on both mating surfaces.They don't need to be deep, just visible.