Marine Corp to Study 422k Acres Surrounding the Base
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By res2fr
I have an issue and I'm hoping that someone can help with a little Wisdom. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU500 UTV that blew a time chain while out riding. It has been torn down to replave the chain and Sprocket amount other things that will be renewed. The problem comes in with setting Top Dead Center on the motor. The Manuals all teel one to line up hash marks on the flywheel with a point on the side cover under what's referred to in several place as a manhole cover. Its a large headed cap/bolt that unscrews and allows you to view the edge of the flywheel. There are hash marks on the flywheel that your supposed to turn the crank until you get the proper alignment between a certain hash mark and a reference point on the Case. Problem is there is NO reference point on the case there. I also have another 2016 MSU500 and a 2014 Coleman 500. Not one of these machines have a reference mark of any kind in that location. (I have pictures if needed)
I know I can use the old pull the valve covers and rotate the crank and rely on getting the right point where Both Intake and Exhaust valves are closed at hopefully the correct point in the piston stroke. Is there any other reference point that could be used for this or is this the only thing left to use for finding TDC? Gotta Love documentation that doesn't match the equipment it's supposed to be for, any help would be greatly appreciated. Even if just to tell me that's about my only option.
Thanks to all who even take the time to read my rambling question.
Robert
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By Greg Kilgore
At 185 hours while do a little riding noticed using a little more fuel that the trip should have taken and running a little rough. Thought it might be time to clean the air filter.
I while back, I bought a filter kit for another sxs I had but never installed. I was going to do the snorkel thing. Anyway, while I was as cleaning the air filter for the Axis 500. I mocked up this filter kit and wanted to know if anyone could give a reason why this wouldn't work.
I plan on removing the air box completely. Moving the PCV valve hose to the side of the large hose going to the throttle body instead of the way it is now. Now it connects to the air box. There is already a hole in that hose and it just has a 90° fitting on it and then a plug.
Then route some pipe thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses. Then up under the hood and mount the new filter there. I even bought a hood scoop to use. See pics below.
Here is the way it is from the factory.
Notice the hose plugged into the top of the air box. That is for the PCV valve. It provides suction for the crankcase to keep from blowing seals. You can't see in the pic, but there is a hose that connects to the crank case. That hose connects to a box with 2 hoses coming off. One of those hoses goes down to under the sxs to let any oil that is sucked up drip on the ground. The other hose connects to the air box.
Here is the passenger side of the air box. Notice the 90° nipple on the large hose running between the air box and the throttle body.
Here is a pic of the kit I got off Amazon.
Here are some pics with the air box removed, PCV hose relocated, and the hose coming up into the hood area thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses.
I will probably have to relocate the radiator overflow jug. I know I will probably have to use solid pipe instead of that plastic flex stuff. And will have to keep it clear of the drive shaft. The only issue I see it the air coming in thru the PVC hose is not filtered. It also could cause more suction on the crankcase and cause the sxs to use some oil. Those little square boxes on top to the throttle hose are empty. I may have to connect the PCV hose to that and add a filter in that square box.
But other than that. Does anyone know of any reason this shouldn't work?
Once I get it installed I can close off the holes in the engine cover that is currently uses by the air box. That will help keep noise and heat out of the cab in the summer.
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By Toofast4you
I have been working on variations of the Clutching for the 6 Arm design and have had Outstanding results . The Test vehicle is a 21 Turbo RR completely stock. All changes are in the Primary Clutch . The 6 Arm clutch made more power than the P Drive (stock) after the 6 Arm was properly calibrated. Here is the final Dyno pull . This is the stock clutching vs. the Prototype Kit . Very Impressive ......Just wanted to show that you can get plenty of performance out of the 6 Arm clutch and not buy a P Drive . In Fact , i tweaked a P Drive and The Graph was almost identical when both clutches were ran ....Both of these clutches were ran on the same machine ....
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By Bigdaddy
have a Land Pride Treker4410. It’s clunking and jerking especially making left turn on an upgrade. Assuming I need a transaxle? Anybody got any other ideas? Thanks.
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By Roger 99
My uncle has this machine and his starter is bad we can only find a 9 tooth and the one on it is 11 tooth. My question is will a 9 tooth work or did they change it to 9 for more torque?
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