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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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By Tommy2bits
Just bought a brand new 2022 (NOS) Sector E1 with Lithium upgrade. (Single 135ah/200amp continuous). I've climbed a moderate hill in my woods probably 20 times since buying it. Today It won't climb it unless I am in Low. In High it almost makes it and then completely dies and I have to roll back down the hill. In Mid range (Max Range) I can't get 2 feet up the hill and the power output in only 100 amps, I have climbed this hill in every speed before many times. I put it on the trailer tonight and it wouldn't even get on the dang trailer in mid range. Torque is gone. That being said, when I am just cruising around in Midrange, it runs absolutely perfect with plenty of power. The only thing I did was charge it up, that is all. I charged to 100% using the charger that came with the battery. Before you think the BMS is shutting down due to overcharge protection, remember I am going UP hill so there is no regeneration AND I have done it before at 100% charge AND another big problem is that after 1 mile it is already down to 85% so it's not over charging and why is the battery draining so fast when I got 27 miles before. Battery output is fine in Low it pulls 200 amp up the hill just like normal so that doesn't point to the battery being the issue. All the individual cells on the battery are in line, so there is no dead cell either. I am tech savvy but to toward electric motors and I tried to cover all my bases. Please don't tell me basics like torque is reduced in High and Mid. The only thing I can think of is that I smelled something when I took my first drive today and I thought it was the Ebrake dragging but there was the correct amount of play in the cable and I jacked up the rear wheels and they spin freely. maybe something burned out in the motor, I do not knowm still runs great, we'll see if I have any trouble on the hills at the lake house this weekend. Maybe this is "Normal" and the settings were off before and was giving equal torque for whatever reason instead of 50% in Mid and 70% in High like the manual says....
For reference....this is it not even able to get on the trailer in mid range
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By Robert301972
I just bought a 2012 can am commander xt Rotax 1000 4x4 EFI. It has 456 Hours on it and 6543 miles on it. From what I have read that is not a hole lot. It will start Right up run for about 5 or 10 sec then starts to stubble and then stalls. And ever time I start it It runs fine for the first 5 or 10 sec. I can Repeat the process for about 8 or 9 times and will will at least stay running. But it does not run fine until it is warmed up. Once it is up to operating temp it runs and drives fine. I have Replaced the fuel pump. Thinking that was the problem but no. I replace the map sensor It wouldn't even start with the new one in. So I put the old one back in and it started Right back up. I Think I had a bad map sensor. I will get a different one. It Is definitely a fuel problem. I just don't know what kind of problem. Here Is my thinking on all the sensors. (Crank sensor) all that does is send a single to the coils. That don't care if the motor is cold or warm. (Map sensor) all that does is measure the temp of the air.(Fuel Injectors) If they were bad it would not start at all. If they were clogged. It would run like shit if it was cold or warm. (Temp sensor) This is the only sensor that tells the computer weather the engine is cold or warm. So what is the temp sensor is telling the computer that the engine is warm. When I first start it. the computer will think that the engine is at operating temp. So It leans out the fuel mixture. So with a lean fuel mixture going into a cold engine. It Is going to stall. I have no scan tool to hook up to the computer. So Please help. I am at my wits End trying to figure this thing out.
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By stadinc11
Hello all, my name is Stan. I reside in Texas near Houston. I recently purchased a demo Massimo Buck 250X just to cruise around in (first time owner of this type vehicle). Something I missed during purchase was checking the functionality of left/right flashers. Once checked, I discovered they do not work. I replaced the flasher rocker switch with the exact same factory switch. Once I did, the flashers lit up, stayed on solid, and do not flash. I then suspected it could be the relay switch. I've followed the wiring harness front to back, searched this unit up and down, and having the hardest time locating the relay switch. If anyone knows where it is, please help. Thanks.
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By Red Good
I have a massimo 500 with a blown motor and want rid of the rest of it . Is that ok here ? Motor is in a box , has low hours on the machine be a good parts machine for someone or stick a different motor in it . Tires are good body looks like no use on it . 500 bucks takes it away . 918-479-4200 located in NE Oklahoma . Red
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