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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Cliffampranch
Hi All,
I have a 14 mile round trip on level roads to reach the property where I work with my 2025 Amp Crew Ranch (purchased, April 2026). That 14 mile round trip uses 60% of the battery as shown on the gage for a calculated range of 23.3 miles versus an advertised “up to 50 miles” range. A mile or two working on the property gets me a flashing gage and warning beeping by the time I get home. The dealer was good to work with and even with a new battery (yesterday) the results were about the same, although there seemed to be more power and a higher top speed. I own a Mach-e Mustang so I am familiar with how various conditions affect range, but less than 50% of advertised range just seems like there has to be something out of whack.
Now I’m wondering if there is a controller and/or software issue affecting the range and performance. At various points the Amp seems to lose power for no reason and then has trouble maintaining speed. Any ideas?
Also, twice now, the brakes seem to have not released fully. After noticing reduced speed, I stopped and check the rotors and wheel…..HOT! So, now every time I feel less power, I stopped to cycle the brakes and check the temperature. Very annoying. Are there any adjustments to be had?
And yes, as noted in another post, sometimes the switching from forward to reverse or high to low speed feels sluggish or balky.
Lastly, while an electric vehicle powertrain is quiet, my Amp was horrible from a road noise and vibration standpoint. This was easily fixed by locating panels vibrating on other panels or the frame (even the cup holders were vibrating) and installing felt adhesive pads at the contact points (seat to frame, windshield to frame, fenders to frame, etc.). This is a $10 and 1/2 hour fix that makes a significant improvement in the driver/passenger experience. Tire noise, yes, but that’s because of the knobby tread.
I’m trying hard to like my Amp and would appreciate any tips, advice or solutions.
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By lincolnsq175
Ive searched and cannot find any performance parts that fit my machine.
I have a 2020 coleman ut400.
Im looking for machined sheave kit, programmers, cdi, exhaust and intake.
I know these are yamaha rhino clones but are they rhino 450 clones?
Any info is appreciated.
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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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By Ironeagle
My 2018 Massimo MSU 500 was operating just fine. I parked it for 2 weeks in my shop now the unit starts and runs great but at 18 MPH it cuts out. It's not the seatbelt safety switch that engages at 10 MPH if it is unbuckled. I purchased a new ECU but that did not resolve the problem. No error code is presented. I reset the ECU replaced the fuel injector, coil, sparkplug and spark plug wire. Same response. I don't mind replacing faulty components but don't want to chase parts and hope for the best. Any ideas??
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