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By REDfletching
Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
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By Bassarino51
My 2014 Odes with less than 1000 miles suddenly won’t turn over with a fully charged battery.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Hillbilly
Hello everybody. I just tore a Yamaha apex snowmobile apart and I’m about ready to start fabbing up the mounting system for this thing. The Yamaha was in a stand alone setup. The gearbox was hard mounted to the chassis with the engine on four rubber mounts and that’s the way I’d like to build this too.
I ordered the secondary clutch from STM but it hasn’t arrived yet. The Yamaha secondary slid about 1/4” axially and I’m assuming that was to tolerate the fluctuation from the engine moving in the rubber mounts because of torque. I don’t believe the stm clutch has that slide action.
So my question is if I was to hard mount the rzr gearbox and leave the apex engine in its original mounts would the fluctuation from the primary under torque be bad enough to make the belts too far out of alignment ?
I’m not a fan of hard mounting the two together like Polaris does due to no ability to adjust the clutch alignment and the apex is sitting with fresh mounts installed in my garage as it sits. If I went with the rubber mounts that it already has I could be fabricating tomorrow. I’ve seen the kits available and I’m not paying that kind of money. Everything I need to fabricate this is sitting in my garage already.
Oh and the speed sensor. Anybody have to mess with this yet ? I have to assume the ratio from the apex gearbox and the Polaris gearbox are different. There’s no way I’d be that lucky
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By Dan H 965
I bought a project UTV. 2010 Hisun 700. I'm doing a top end rebuild. The prior owner did some shady stuff to this poor thing. It's got a knock and blown head gasket. Piston is gouged and 3/5 bent valves. Standard stuff if you dont know how to take care of your equipment. But while doing disassembly there is a nipple on the back side of the head, just under the exaust rocker arm peep holes. The guy has a rubber hose clamped to it and pinched it off on the other end with a vice grips left undet the seat. I can't find where this is supposed to attach to. The manual shows it capped on the head in the new models and doesnt address it at all on the old models. Any input?
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