Quantcast
Jump to content


Temperature switch location


Recommended Posts

I have a 2011 Kawasaki mule model 4010 with gasoline engine.  The cooling fan is not working. I took the front cover off and unplugged the fan and it works fine on a 12 volt battery. The fuse is good also. I am having trouble finding the temp switch.  Most sources say it is on the radiator but there is not one on this model.  Is in on the engine?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fan, fuse and relay is good. I can inject 12 volts at relay and fan works.  The sensor on engine resistance seems ok but voltage is not right. I hooked a 100 ohms resistor in hope that would trick ECU into turning on the fan relay with no luck.

I  need to pull ECU and check  wiring and contacts for corrosion. I have unhooked battery in hopes of resetting computer. Raining now.

If ECU is bad I may just install a toggle switch and run fan that way.  

Now that cooler weather is here the fan will not be coming on much anyway.  I hope there is not another problem lurking around.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Oldman
      Ive got an American Sportsworks BD-200.  I can’t get the ignition switch to work, but if I cross the solenoid, it starts right up. Runs great.  Can anyone send me a simple wiring diagram for a switch and where the 3 wires from the switch go!   Any help is greatly appreciated!!!   Thanks!     


    • By Alien10
      A while back I was looking at an auction UTV plow and the mounting of it.  Looked like it had an "H" bar with two pins that hooked into brackets on the front frame of the UTV.   I have a bunch of 1/4" x2" angle iron, and some 2"x1/2" flat stock in the barn.   I was thinking of welding up a bolt on implement mount that would provide 2 holes about 14" apart, that pins could be used to hook up an "H" frame for a plow or even a straight bar across with pins to hold it in place.   The angle iron "A" would utilize the existing bumper mounting bolts front and bottom, and have the two channels "B" with holes for individual pins or one large bar across. Those channels would be welded to the ends of the angle iron. 
      Anyone ever try this for a front mount?   It would be close to  this one that is for sale on the net.  It is supposed to fit a KFI plow mount.  

       
    • By Retired Plumber
      The rear differential lock light is on and I would like to get it off. How do I do that it is a Coleman UTV700.
    • By djl
      Hi All.  The splines are pretty well worn where the rear driveshaft fits into the adapter (boss?) on the rear of the engine.  I have a new driveshaft / adapter / seal to install but am having difficulty loosening the nut holding the adapter onto the transmission output shaft.  I purchased a chain-type vice grip tool thinking that I could get it around the adapter to prevent it from turning but have not had any luck getting it in there yet (very tight space).  What approaches have you used that have worked?  Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...