Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Afternoon,

Doing some much needed overdue maintenance on the Joyner T2.  Believe mine is a 2011.

 

In need of :

- wheel bearings and seals (small and large)

         Outer 65x45x8

         Inner 62x42x8

         Bearing 02.D650.03.01.0005 - 65x35x35

- Inner tie rod joints

     D800.05.01.00.0002

- Upper and lower ball joints

     S650.02.01.01.01.00

and I'm sure I'll uncover a few others as I continue the tear down

 

What's the most reliable for parts now?

 

- Casey Ye from China, assuming shipping cost and time would be higher.

 - Klung, China contact as well I believe.

 - MPSRacing.net

 - Is ordering from Joyner-USA working for folks?

Don't want it torn apart in the shop for too long.

 

 

Is there a parts manual floating around for ordering the correct parts?  I have a 2009 parts manual I believe, but there are definitely differences between that model and mine.

Hate to order the wrong stuff.

 

Thanks,

 

 

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      I have a 2007 Joyner 1100 sand viper and  before it even get's to where the thermostat opens up the oil pressure get's so low I have to shut it down. What could fix this ? I thought about adding an oil cooler with fan, thicker oil, or removing the thermostat. Any advice?
    • By nrggaragebuilds
      2004 250DL DIRT DEVIL. Hey y’all, I already know this is a long shot. But I am looking for a the “prick gear” assembly that makes reverse work for my external reverse gearbox. OEM PN D250.08.103 and its assembly. I bought the kart as a basket case, but I saw that the reverse box was present so I was optimistic.  Upon starting working on the buggy I realized there was a block off plate in plate of there the normal gear would be. If my understanding is correct that means the transmission no longer has reverse gear. I figured it’s just a standard bevel gear and I could probably find a gear to make work, but I don’t want to spend the time making all the other housing parts to shim the gear perfectly. Has anyone spare parts, or figured out an aftermarket solution from McMaster? I already know it’ll be a challenge to get this box to be happy again, but figured I would ask  
    • By jertex
      I bought a 2017 Stampede 900 last fall that was new, old stock with less than 5 hours on it thinking that I would be getting a relatively trouble free UTV as compared to buying a used Polaris or CanAm, or Honda, etc. It's been a little quirky, but reliable. What I thought was just a minor issue with this model, the difficulty in shifting between R, N, L, H, etc., was just a characteristic of this model is now a big problem. I had to climb two very steep trails to get to the upper meadow of our hunting property, which seemed to stress the UTV more than usual since I was carrying some lumber to work on a platform for a hunting blind, and when I went to shift into park, I felt something give and it would not shift out of low, but it did move up into high gear.  I couldn't get it to shift at all at that point and the shifter felt mushy for lack of a better word. I was able to get it down to the lodge and when I investigated, I discovered that the straight, metal tube portion of the shift cable had bent to almost 90 degrees (see pics). I'm positive that it had already had some deformation that had happened previously and it had the right amount of resistance to bend to the point where it was unusable. 
      I have two questions:
      1. I suspect that there must be some other issues that makes this UTV difficult to shift, and I'm wondering if this is a common problem and if someone could enlighten me on what could cause this to be difficult to shift?
      2. Have any of you had this happen and if so, how difficult is it to replace the shifter cable?
      Any other advice is welcome, this is the first UTV that I've ever owned, so I don't know much about working on these or maintaining them. I'm relatively capable when it comes to working on my own vehicles in general, and I'm not afraid to take things apart and get my hands dirty.
      Thanks in advance for any insight, I'll be traveling most the day so I won't get a chance to look at replies until this evening.


       
    • By HighSon
      Haven't posted in a while since solving the excessive cabin noise issue, so I thought I would share a few upgrades to my Sector... Realize that this is driven daily on the street, so some of the mods are to make it more streetworthy.

      Locking gas door.

      Rear view mirror.

      Modified windshield for better airflow in cabin.

      Lowered and modified headrest bar for improved rear view.  Tailgate protector.

      Folding armrests.

      Overhead utility rack.  Keeps the interior cooler and dryer, too!

      Folding rear seats.

      Dust cover and seat protector.
      If anyone wants links to the rear view mirror, seats, or arrests, let me know and I will post.  But know that everything requires some level of fabrication.  The utility rack was all custom built.  Cheers!
    • By rdc
      I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC

×
×
  • Create New...