Heater installed 2021 Axis 500

[Greg Kilgore]

Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install

 

That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.

I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.

If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. 

Plumbing parts list.

10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.

2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee

1 3/4" PEX ball valve

1 1" PEX ball valve

5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.

I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.

They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.

The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.

Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.

The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees

Wide view of the plumbing.

The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.

 

I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.

 

Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.

Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months 

 

Kilgore.

[Greg Kilgore]

Well, wife and I went for a ride the other day. She got a little chilly. I stopped and threw the valves so the heater core was open and the bypass was off. About 5 minutes later. The temp idiot light came on but the gauge showed it wasn't over heating. So I quickly pulled over. Turned off heater core and turned the bypass back on. Less than a minute the temp light went off. Tried again and same thing. 

So I left the heater core off and bypass on and came on to the house. Then today was checking a few things out. And remembered what Joe Breaux said about the bleed screw at the top of cylinder head. Sure enough there was air there. After burping the thing a few times while running with bypass off and heater core on. It idled fine not over heating. Putting out good heat for about an hour or so.

Turned off for 30ish minutes. Started back up. Within 5 minutes the temp idiot back on. A few revs and it went off. So I'm guessing there's more air around the gooseneck for the head. Guess I'm going the have to let it run, then burp, then off, let cool, burp, run to operating temp, burp, cool, repeat. Until I get no air.

[Joe Breaux]

I get it right now and then ...glad you got it to work.A cold wife is a grumpy wife..lol😂

[Greg Kilgore]

Amen brother!

[Joe Breaux]

Dont need heater In The swamp. Need A/C