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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By jertex
I bought a 2017 Stampede 900 last fall that was new, old stock with less than 5 hours on it thinking that I would be getting a relatively trouble free UTV as compared to buying a used Polaris or CanAm, or Honda, etc. It's been a little quirky, but reliable. What I thought was just a minor issue with this model, the difficulty in shifting between R, N, L, H, etc., was just a characteristic of this model is now a big problem. I had to climb two very steep trails to get to the upper meadow of our hunting property, which seemed to stress the UTV more than usual since I was carrying some lumber to work on a platform for a hunting blind, and when I went to shift into park, I felt something give and it would not shift out of low, but it did move up into high gear. I couldn't get it to shift at all at that point and the shifter felt mushy for lack of a better word. I was able to get it down to the lodge and when I investigated, I discovered that the straight, metal tube portion of the shift cable had bent to almost 90 degrees (see pics). I'm positive that it had already had some deformation that had happened previously and it had the right amount of resistance to bend to the point where it was unusable.
I have two questions:
1. I suspect that there must be some other issues that makes this UTV difficult to shift, and I'm wondering if this is a common problem and if someone could enlighten me on what could cause this to be difficult to shift?
2. Have any of you had this happen and if so, how difficult is it to replace the shifter cable?
Any other advice is welcome, this is the first UTV that I've ever owned, so I don't know much about working on these or maintaining them. I'm relatively capable when it comes to working on my own vehicles in general, and I'm not afraid to take things apart and get my hands dirty.
Thanks in advance for any insight, I'll be traveling most the day so I won't get a chance to look at replies until this evening.
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By Cliffampranch
Hi All,
I have a 14 mile round trip on level roads to reach the property where I work with my 2025 Amp Crew Ranch (purchased, April 2026). That 14 mile round trip uses 60% of the battery as shown on the gage for a calculated range of 23.3 miles versus an advertised “up to 50 miles” range. A mile or two working on the property gets me a flashing gage and warning beeping by the time I get home. The dealer was good to work with and even with a new battery (yesterday) the results were about the same, although there seemed to be more power and a higher top speed. I own a Mach-e Mustang so I am familiar with how various conditions affect range, but less than 50% of advertised range just seems like there has to be something out of whack.
Now I’m wondering if there is a controller and/or software issue affecting the range and performance. At various points the Amp seems to lose power for no reason and then has trouble maintaining speed. Any ideas?
Also, twice now, the brakes seem to have not released fully. After noticing reduced speed, I stopped and check the rotors and wheel…..HOT! So, now every time I feel less power, I stopped to cycle the brakes and check the temperature. Very annoying. Are there any adjustments to be had?
And yes, as noted in another post, sometimes the switching from forward to reverse or high to low speed feels sluggish or balky.
Lastly, while an electric vehicle powertrain is quiet, my Amp was horrible from a road noise and vibration standpoint. This was easily fixed by locating panels vibrating on other panels or the frame (even the cup holders were vibrating) and installing felt adhesive pads at the contact points (seat to frame, windshield to frame, fenders to frame, etc.). This is a $10 and 1/2 hour fix that makes a significant improvement in the driver/passenger experience. Tire noise, yes, but that’s because of the knobby tread.
I’m trying hard to like my Amp and would appreciate any tips, advice or solutions.
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By lincolnsq175
Ive searched and cannot find any performance parts that fit my machine.
I have a 2020 coleman ut400.
Im looking for machined sheave kit, programmers, cdi, exhaust and intake.
I know these are yamaha rhino clones but are they rhino 450 clones?
Any info is appreciated.
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By rdc
I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC
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