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By Big Red Dog
Bought my 2009 Yamaha Rhino, (fuel injected of course), recently from the original owner. Only had 500 miles and 70hrs. Starts reliably, however, it will not idle but about 50% of the time. Also, when driving slow in low or high, that is to say, relatively low rpms and below about 10 mph, it bucks and almost wants to die..... not smooth at all. However, at speed (say 12-15 mph or more) it runs very well, like it should. Any ideas?
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By Stubbsmobile
Hey yall,
Helping a friend out. he purchased a 2020 massimo buck 400 utv. has about 100 hours on it. after starting the engine, shifter in low, it does fine. when shifted to high gear, most of the time it acts like its not in gear completely, and it pops out and grinds bad. when you can get it in high gear, it acts like something is binding and it wont hardley roll before it jumps out of gear and makes that grinding noise. almost like trying to dr4ive a standard transmission car and start off in 3rd or 4th gear.
I have been on this site for several hours now, and totally understand the overall feeling about massimo utv. I can only imagine trying to find transmission parts when other members cant even find a fuel filter, lol.
A new transmission is (part#47516) $1159.99 plus tax and freight.
anyone have any other ideas or suggestions on what is causing the noise in high gear and not wanting to move?
Thanks ,
Chris
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By AlphaSerenity
Hello,
Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
Here is another video of the clutches in action:
I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated. I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts
Thanks!
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By dogfood
Hello -
New here - and looking hard at a 2026 Mule Pro-FXT 1000. My wife insists we'll be going with the Platinum Ranch, because in her words, we already saved $ by not going with a Honda 1000-6. Ready to pull the trigger on this ... almost.
We were looking at the factory soft cab, but then realized this won't work with the standard hard top, as the soft cab has dual back windows to accommodate the 3/6 folding seats. However, we like the hard top. So recognizing there's a lot available in the aftermarket world, does anyone have suggestions relative to an aftermarket soft cab (sides, rear window, etc.) that will work with factory hard top, windshield and doors - and also allows for a (relatively) simple 3/6 seat conversion?
Thanks,
dogfood
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