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By amiracle40995
I’m getting a 700-7 every startup. I’m having to change the plug every 100 miles on 93 octane gas. I got a lower numbered plug that is supposed to burn hotter. I’m wondering why that comes up every time I start it and if it’s related? I included a picture of the code or whatever it is. I haven’t seen the code in the owners manual or the hisun shop manual I have.
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By BigWave
I turned off the key and then tried to start it a minute later and it would not start. I changed out the fuel filter and the injector. still nothing. if i have the injector pulled out and close to the hole the injector will spray fuel into the hole and it will run but the minute you put the injector in it will die. any idea's please
Bigwave
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By HighSon
This mod is not for the fainthearted, as it requires some basic metal fabrication and welding skills. But the result is worth the effort IMO. I chose an aftermarket Honda Talon windshield based on economy, size, and construction (aluminum frame, DOT glass, folding, windshield). It fits OK, a little narrow at the top, and you need to incorporate the lower section of the original acrylic windshield and build some additional plates, but better than being too wide. If you are wondering why I attacked this mod, it's because mine is driven daily on the street. Tired of fading, scratchy, hazy plastic. Sucks in the rain; sucks at night. Now I can see.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By UTVLover253
Hey everyone – my name is Adam and I’m doing some market research to better understand the ATV / UTV community. I'm especially interested in hearing about:
What you use your vehicle for (work, play, etc.)
What you love about it
What frustrates you
What the overall experience of riding has been like
If you're open to hopping on a casual 30-minute Zoom or phone call sometime this week or next, I’ll send you a $100 gift card as a thank-you.
No sales, no pitches—just listening and learning. I'd also just ask that you send over a photo of you and your side-by-side in action (nothing formal—trail pics or selfies are totally fine!).
If you're down to chat, drop a comment or DM me and we’ll find a time that works. Would really appreciate the chance to learn from you 🙏
Thanks!
– Adam
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