After a few days of heavy rainfall I got in my Sidekick and noticed that the belt seemed to be slipping as I was making my way out on a large property. I turned around and could barely make it back to my shop. After removing the cowelling I noticed about a quart of water drained out. I dried the area, the cover and checked the belt. No signs of dammage, belt looks great and no foreign debris other than water in the area. I put it back together and there was a definite improvement. The Sidekick is driveable now but the belt still slips but only at a higher speed and only when the throttle is punched. I'm wondering whether I may have inadvertently damaged it while it was wet and have ordered a new belt. I have looked on line to see if there is a guide or procedure, specifically for the CVT belt removal and replacement for the 850 but can find none. Does anyone have experience with this?
Just got quoted $770 for my Mule's first 50 hour service. Is it just me, or does this seem insanely excessive? I was expecting something in the $350 to $500 range and thinking that even $500 would be a little high. Is dealer service really necessary at 50 hours? At this price I think I'd like to shop around for a mechanic that could do it for half the price. I don't really have the option of shoping around for a cheaper Kawasaki dealer, as there is just this one dealer a reasonable distance away (30 min). The next closest olne is 3 hours away.
Hello all. I'm new to the forum and have read all the posts I could find concerning the 550 Mule, so far no one with my problem. So, I'll give it a go and hopefully get an answer.
I got this mule about three years ago, had to do some minor repairs, and it's been a great machine. Last fall, I noticed an oil leak coming from the left side around the crankcase cover. I was able to slow the leak considerably, but it still leaked. I never had the time to tear it down due to work. I retire in March of this year and decided to fix it with a new cover gasket. I ordered a new gasket and crankshaft seal and while waiting for them to arrive, I began the tear down and cleaning of the mating surfaces. Got the seal and gasket installed and the cover back on and torqued. Decided to crank it up and let it idle a bit to check for any oil leaks before I put the converters back on. Fired right up, let it idle for about 10 minutes, no leaks. I'm happy at this point...
Next day, installed the inside converter cover, new belt and converters, not the outside cover though. I wanted to see how the new belt was going to work out. I still had the rear end jacked up so it wouldn't move. Guess what, it wouldn't start up. Cranked over like always, just wouldn't start... Now I'm bummed. So I start checking gas, spark and everything is good. Even tried a squirt of starting fluid, and it did fire a couple of times but no start. Now I'm even more bummed. Time for a break.
Now I've worked on everything from small engines to tractors and have never had this problem. After a little thought I decided to run a compression test. The repair manual lists 115 - 178 psi as the correct range, I had 30 psi!!!!! What in the world happened over night. I did spray a light oil into the cylinder and it came up to about 60 psi but that was all I could get. I checked the valve clearances, their good.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope someone can point me in the right direction cause I really like this little machine.
Thanks for your help,
By Eddie Kirkland
I have a 2021 Kawasaki Mule 4010. I need more ground clearance so I'm looking at 2" lift kit and bigger wheels/tires. Does anyone have experience adding these items to this model Mule? Any problems? Suggestions? Thanks
Earlier this year my battery was weak and I had to boost my mule to start it then I decided to remove the battery to check the fluid level which was very low, I set the levels and recharged the battery a few months later it did the same thing, so I had to boost it again then checked the voltage running was getting around 16 vdc ( which is too high) and fluid level was very low again and wouldn't hold a charge. Note: The battery was maybe 1-1/2 years old. Then I replaced the battery and checked the voltage running nothing changed I was only reading battery voltage it wouldn't increase with increased engine speed. I changed the voltage regulator with an aftermarket one, same thing not charging. I checked the alternator per the service manual which states .3 ohms or less it checks at .2 ohms and not shorted to ground. With the engine running I disconnected the alternator and it had around 22 vac idling and around 60 vac revving the engine, so I figured the regulator was bad so I replaced it with another new one (aftermarket) from a different company, again not charging only reading battery voltage. I did put the original voltage regulator on nothing changed still not charging. Using the manual wiring diagram did continuity checks going to the voltage regulator everything checks out OK. Now what am I missing?