Here I am
-
Similar Topics
-
By matthejl
Quick history:
Bought it about a month ago and when I test drove it, it ran good. Loaded it up and took it home. Owner said it had been sitting for a long time, but was "just serviced". It only has 500 miles on it total. Drove it around and found out the charging system wasnt working...so had to charge the battery once every week and a half or so. One day my daughter was driving it and it died. I couldnt get it to start again and I noticed there was no fuel in the filter...I first checked pulse/vacuum line to make sure it was sucking and it was. So I replaced the fuel pump with one I found local...which is for a large riding lawn mower...and it worked. Engine started and ran, but struggled at low speed immediately following running it at higher speed. It would bog when decelerating. I have also noticed now that it will backfire some on decell and die.
In the meantime, I went ahead and installed new stator and trigger coil assembly to get the charging system working again (that was an issue because it would not start at all after that...but eventually found that the trigger coil was wired backwards in the plug from the factory). I have also set valves, but I set them to .005 (intake) and .007 (exhaust)...per the manual. But what is weird is the manual states its mainly for the 700 series, but "can" be used on other models. On the front it says 500/600/700. I have noticed that the most common setting seems to be .005.
Anyways it still has the issue to me that seems like its running lean. Not full power now, struggles immediately running it faster, and will die and pop some on deceleration.
My main problem now is that it wont get to higher rpms as fast as it did when I first bought it. It struggles on deceleration after running near top speed.
Things I have done:
changed fuel pump
replaced stator / pickup coil
thoroughly cleaned carb (twice)
set valves to .005 and .007 (is .007 too loose for exhaust?)
anyways it seems to have a lean problem, and wondering if you have any suggestions on what to check.
Thanks
-
By Byron Johnson
Does anyone have a had time starting there utv.
I have a T-Boss 750 and I have had to put 2 starters in and put heavier wire to the starter but it still has a problem starting. it will turn over and than die before it wil turn over again. could it be that there is to much compression that might cause this problem
Thank you
-
By MitchSpence
I have a Massimo Buck 400 2020 model. It is not starting and I am pretty sure it is the solenoid. Anyone know where I can get part? Ebay and Amazon have one but with a different connector. Anybody?
-
By Tim Nelson
Ok guys, my turn...
Working on my neighbors 2017 Massimo MSU-500. Initial complaint was it would start and run for about 10 minutes and the just die. He replaced the fuel pump and still had the same issue. I stopped over one day to look at it and saw that it had codes flashing on the dash; 505, 336 and 337. We decided to get a new stator/crank sensor. Took it apart installed the new stator/crank sensor and nothing. It won't even start. I checked the pins on the crank sensor plug and one was in the wrong place, so I repinned it and it still won't start. I double checked the connectors and all is good. I checked the wires from the ECU to the coil, good. It appears to have spark every once and awhile but not enough to start. I replaced the coil with a known good one and still nothing. I bought the cables and downloaded the ECU hardware and everything looks good. I pulled the timing cover back off to check the flywheel keyway, it is good. I checked the timing and timing chain, good. I checked the valve lash, good. I have to put it back together but just wanted to post in case there is something else I should check before hand. I checked the 9 pin connector and it is clean. I have battery voltage on the purple wire and pins 15 and 18 on the ECU. I pulled the air filter off and I am going to put a new plug in it just for the heck of it. What ECU inputs would prevent it from starting? Why would it now not start at all after replacing the stator/crank sensor? It has to be something simple. Any help would be appreciated.
-
By Bob Marshall
I know this topic has come up many times before but I see nothing that duplicates my issue. I replaced the wet clutch and after reinstalling the primary things changed. i had to realign the weights in the clutch because they came out of the slot. Now I have a knocking in the clutch that I cant find the source . I know the one way bearing is correct - spins clockwise and turns the crank if turned CCW. I have included the YT link. The primary is engage enough at idle that I cant put in gear while its running. Idling @ 1300 rpm. Tried new belt and old belt with no improvement. I am not sure the primary should be turning at idle which points to the wet clutch? I started the engin with the primary off and no knocking occurred
-
-
-
Gallery Images
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.