1 1/2 years ago I was riding along in my 2018 Coleman 550 Outfitter when the CVT belt broken. Just prior to that I was having some shifting issues that I now understand can be part of the clutch. Finally a few months ago I sent it in to a shop who put in a new belt as well as a new wet clutch (drum, one way bearing, etc and an oil change) He fired it up and it turned on fine, sounded fine and I took it home. It was an auto shop but not a UTV specific shop. So get it home and after a half hour or so it started making some noises with my 10 year old driving it around. I get home and he said theres noises again and I played around a bit. Within a short bit of trying to drive it around I started having noises that I now understand was my One Way Bearing being destroyed. Aka metal noises from the bearing falling apart. Of course, after the cost of $800 to take it to a shop plus $200 in gas, trailer rental etc to take it in and back (it was a friends shop that was a bit of ad istance) I was quite ticked and pushed the UTV back into my garage and left it for a while. Then this past weekend i watched a bunch of Youtube videos along with a mechanic friend to pull things apart. We found the spindle was loose, opened it up further and found the one way bearing fell apart in my hand and the little bearings were already worn, no longer round and this was from less than a hour of use. THerefore leading me to believe it had very quick failure after the new wet clutch was put in. We looked things to look for damage further. Nothing really scratched/grooves etc so I ordered a new OEM bearing and we put it in, sealed it back up, followed the specs of everything and was 110% sure we put the One Way Bearing in correctly. We rode it around for a hour, sounded fine. Next day used it, sounded fine for a half hour. Third day I turned it on and let it idle a little bit and found that I was hearing metal scraping again like I did right after getting my utv back from the shop. Therefore I am 99% certain the One Way Bearing is about to break again (already breaking) Its a brand new OEM belt. Nothing looks off on the spindle. I do not know for sure if the shop touched the inner race for which, in my understanding, the One Way Bearing spins. I know I may be sounding ignorant here. I am not a mechanic by any means but I have learned a bit with the recent Youtube videos and attempted repairs. Whatever that "ufo" looking object is, we replaced the bearings (those black things that spin) I replaced the whole "Ufo" lol... as the original had some wear/tear that prevented it from spinning perfect. Nothing currently
visibly looks off... and the issue is mostly when the machine is more in an idle. It was at an idle when the One Way Bearing sorta went kaput the last time. THe noises is at an idle... but if I can get it drive, its fine. It also affects the ability to shift the gears.
I know I will have to replace the One Way Bearing again... I just dont know what might cause the issue that is destroying the bearinga nd so quickly. Again, this all started when the belt snapped when I was going about 15 mph down a road on a warm day. It has higher miles. The wet clutch was in bad shape and its replaced. The paperwork says "wet clutch assembly kit") Is there something that the belt can do to cause damage that might not be as visible but would directly create an issue that lets the bearing get ate right up?? Help me! I hate this machine and I really want it to run well ... so I can sell it and find something else haha..
By Jacob E freeman
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
By Shawn Smith
Here is the Yutrax UTV Jump Seat I just install in my new Tracker 800sx LE. Not really intended or recommended safety wise but I plan to move slow while having anyone in the back strapped in to the seatbelts. Adult heads will clear the cab so it is important to have them be aware and they might want to wear a helmet.
Jump Seat: $139.99
Live in GA, hunt in KS and I picked up a 2017 Massimo MSU500 and so far just love this thing. I'm lightly customizing it now. Definitely better than my old Grizzly 660 for my current KS hunting.
Ill be picking your brains for info so thanks in advance to you pros for all your help and advice.
Hi, I'm a mechanic and am at a loss for a customer's 2021 UT400. This thing only got used for the end of the summer, only has 3.3 hours on it.
So far I've found:
No start - starter switch works, relay in relay/fuse box clicks. Solenoid is operating as it should, no signal to solenoid to start. Starts and runs when I hard-jump the solenoid.
No F or R lights on dash - N lights up, and goes off when shifted into either gear
No brake lights - tested switch, it works as it should
No turn signals
Parking brake light is on - switch is working correctly, doesn't change status
All connectors are secured, no wires look out of place. I have an incredible dislike for HiSun equipment. Every one I've dealt with has been full of gremlins. Has anyone else had any issues like this? Would this be something wrong with the dash? Or the relay/fuse box? or both? I don't want to contact Coleman and have them send a bunch of stuff that won't fix it, especially with how long electronic stuff takes to get these days. The last warranty I did for them was a go-kart that shelled the drive shaft bearings and it took 4 months for them to send us the parts.
Any help or knowledge would be much appreciated!