Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Please help, About to buy a new 2020 mule 700 MX. For driving back to my cottage which is only accessible by a 5 km off-road trail. My parents currently have a 2010 teyrx which does the job for a joke. The trail is fairly smooth -1 big rock Rock section that you have to climb. A big  rtv 1100 Kabota does it no problem as well. 

I am looking into the mule because of its bench seat. One of my dogs cannot run in front because they’ve had a hip replacement. she also has anxiety and is not fare well on the teyrx. We think mainly because she can’t get comfortable because of the centre consul. We were thinking because of the mules bench seat she would be able to sit comfortably between me and my wife.

my concern is the mules off-road capability. Do they fare pretty well in the woods/decently smooth ride?

I also plan to do yardwork and plough my driveway with this mule MX. I love the size of it as well, Because it will be easy to store in my shed plus tow behind in my SUV.

please let me know what it’s like in the woods/snow (in Nova Scotia we mainly only have 5inchs Of snow fall on the ground at a time)

please help, me with Determining its off-road capabilities. determining it’s off-road capabilities and keep In mind the trail is in good condition. Also my 700 Yamaha raptor, and 400ex use to do the trail amazing. To give an idea that the trail of pretty good.

Posted

I have a 3010 diesel I bought new in 2005. It goes through mud okay. But not great. I haven't been stuck,  but it wallows around a good bit.  Not floating up on top like I'd prefer.

Snow would probably be similar, but in Texas,  we don't really get much snow. Here's the thing. 4 wheeling is a trade off between weight, power, and traction. The heavier a machine is, the more traction, and power you'll need. My mule is heavy (comparatively speaking), and I think that with bigger, better gripping tires, it'd be much better. But there's clearance issues for the front. Even with my lift kit. 

But the way its built, going higher would be a major challenge. So it'll never be a mud buggy. But if weight would help in the snow, it might work out. 

But the OEM tires on the mule are made to be on/off road tires. And as such aren't really great for either. They're okay at best. So plan on new, purpose built tires, and be happy if the OEM tires work well without changing them.

Independent suspension, with lots of wheel travel is best for what you want. But mine was meant to be a beast of burden. Hauling heavy loads, pulling stumps, and a trailer sometimes. Independent suspension, with lots of wheel travel wouldn't work as well for my uses. 

So be honest with yourself, and know what the realistic end use will be. And buy the best you can afford. Buy once, cry once. I would've preferred the kubota.  But the aftermarket for the mule was much better. 20171210_125337.thumb.jpg.8b54f855d6c2c46be71c33da8d6d09ee.jpg

Here's mine. 

Posted

I plow snow with my Pro MX and it did very well although I didn't get to plow much over 6-8 inches at once.  I pulled a snowmobile uphill through 6 inches of snow and did slip some with 4x4 and differential lock on.  It is a nice ride on the trails but not as nice as the Pro FX models with the wider and longer wheel base.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I just upgraded from a 2010 Teryx to a 2021 Mule Mx. it’s a very comparable machines. I would say the new mule proMX is as capable as my 10 year old Teryx just a little less snappy in the throttle but plenty of power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Rschrem
      Hi, my 2010 Hisun will crannk but comes to a stop and only clicks.  It has new battery and solinoid. Battery connections all seem good. Any ideas what the problem is? 
    • By Xov
      Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro.  Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more.  There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model.  Hope this will help others as they research.
      Intended Use Cases
      Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property.  The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion.  Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus.  Experiences So Far
      Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing.  The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame.  I expect a little better QC.
      I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage.  It isn't quiet; it's silent.  I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller.  The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4.  Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent).  The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque.  It feels very powerful.  All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
      The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard.  Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more.  Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
      Power steering is nice, but vague.  Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input.  Plan early and plan often.
      In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart.  I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done.  After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th. 
      Until next time...


    • By Tim n Deb
      Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas,  stalled and died and would not start.   Towed back to house,  New  plug added this past month,  plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good.   Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt.   Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died.  Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it.  But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start.   Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right.  Any and all help apprecated.  Thank you
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo 700 MSU. The machine started burning oil all of a sudden. One day fine-- next morning burning oil. Looking for advice. Do I pull the engine to inspect the top end or can it be done with the engine in place? Pro? Cons?
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated in advance.
      Chile
       
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo MSU 700 EFI. I realize that this engine is essential the same as in all of the HISUN based Yamaha clones out there. I am in the process of performing a top end diagnosis/rebuild. I have an AMAZON top end rebuild kit on order in anticipation of this activity. 
      Question 1:  When exploring the myriad of top end rebuild kits on the market for these units there are some cylinder assemblies that have "686 cm3" badging next to the cam cain tensioner boss. Others compatible with the unit do not have this badging. The existing cylinder assy does not have the 686 badging. I am assuming that this simply verifies that the cylinder assy is for a 686 cm3 engine which of course the stock 700 series HISUN engines are. Am I missing something here or is this just a manufacturer artifact? With or without the badging the application listings all indicate compatibility with the MSU 700 series engines.
      Question 2:  I have reviewed at minimum a dozen videos associated with this rebuild. To date I have not found one that deals with piston/cylinder clearance and/or ring gap verification. The advertised specifications for these various "top end rebuild kits" all indicate: Cylnider bore = 102mm and piston diameter=101.5mm. The math yields a .5mm (as in 1/2 mm) difference. That seems to be a very large piston/cylinder clearance.  I realize I am referencing advertised specs rather than emperically measured values but the numbers have gotten my attention.  I have referenced the FSM and found it to be somewhat confusing in this regard. Hopefully the experts on this forum can enlighten me as to where my observations are faulty here.
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated .
      Thank you all in advance,
      Chile
×
×
  • Create New...