Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi to all . My name is  Rich . I've recently purchased a MSU 500  from Massimo in Texas .  So far I'm impressed with the overall quality of the machine . My only real issue so far is that this thing is extremely loud . You can't even carry on a conversation with a passenger without yelling which is annoying. My first plan is to add some Dynamat to the underside of the engine cover and the seats.  I would appreciate it if anyone has this problem and any solutions . Is there anything in the aftermarket for the exhaust system ?

Other than that I'm pretty happy with it so far.

Rich

  • Alex changed the title to Massimo MSU 500 Extremely Loud
Posted

check the exhaust pipe right out of the head.. Prone to cracking  and breaking off . ANOTHER factory defect from Massimo Poor Quality .. I implore you to bypass the fan switch and run it 100%  when key is on .. MSUs have massive overheating issues that   blow head gaskets and warp or crack heads.. And Massimo WILL NOT WARRANTY IT 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I read that on another post and I checked it and it seems to be OK. Thanks for the input.

It doesn't seem to be as loud standing at the back with the engine reving. I think that sound deadening in the interior will help a lot , but we'll see .

Posted

Good to know that there is some already there . 

I ran into another problem  though. I went to pull the seats and console to check the insulation and check the oil and cannot CANNOT get the drivers seat to come out. No matter how hard I pull on the lever it will not release ! There has to be something wrong underneath with the release . The only way that I can see to get to it is to remove the panel in front of the seat and hopefully get to the latch from there.  Can't really do anything until I solve that problem. 

Anyone have any suggestions ??  I've tried spraying lube underneath but no help.

Posted

I don't have the stock/original seats or seat bases in mine.  I do recall one side being harder to get out than the other but I was always able to get them out.  Sorry, that I cannot help you on that one...

Posted

Yesterday I was determined to get that seat out. After a lot of rocking and shaking , it finally came free . Turns out that the bolt that the seat locks onto was slightly bent.

After careful and precise application (a couple of hard whacks ) of a finely calibrated adjustment tool ( ball peen hammer) the offending part moved into alignment. 

Problem sorted....

  • Haha 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By Adrian Domingues
      I have 31 miles on my new T-Boss 550. In order to start I put in nentural and the emerage brake on and push down on brake paddle, then trun ket and get nothing, with key still on I shift to reverase and the back to netural and it starts.  Anyone know what is happening.
      Thanks for your help
    • By AlphaSerenity
      Hello,
      Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
      While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
       
      Here is another video of the clutches in action:
       
      I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated.  I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
      After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
      Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts  
       
      Thanks!
    • By mike28honda
      I have an Axis 500 and never had any problems until now,it cuts out 
      at around half throttle. I changed the TPS with no difference, acts like the seatbelts aren't set but can get up to around 15 mph as long as I don't give it too much gas, thanks for any advice 
    • By Nick Varnes
      So I have a Bennche Bighorn 500 that I bought used a couple years ago. Was working fine until this winter when I was plowing and I think it drained the battery. And had a difficult time starting and staying running. Idle seamed really low, and would only stay running if I pushed on the throttle. So I changed the battery, and the acm valve, fuel filter and spark plug it will start up and surgery to 3k rpm but comes back down and dies, unless I give it throttle. I am getting fairly good amount of fuel from fuel pump.  It does spit at stutter right before it dies. What should I try next?
    • By HISUN Sector 750 EPS Failu
      "Mrs. Smith" doesn't like how loud our Sector 750 is.  On a HISUN forum someone said the same thing about his 750.  I haven't given it much thought because I've been more focused on stuff that has broken.
      So, I used my decibel meter to check ours out.  4000 RPM, Low gear, under 20 MPH . . . . 97 decibels.  That's above most ordinances, even state boat noise limits.
      AI Overview Ninety-seven (97) decibels is considered very loud and dangerous to hearing with prolonged exposure, roughly equivalent to a newspaper press, a loud nightclub, or a snowmobile. At this level, damage can occur after just 30 minutes, necessitating hearing protection
×
×
  • Create New...