Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Soo for my second problem lol, 2009 trooper 1100 5 speed , will not engage 5th gear , all others work fine but seems like 5th doesn't engage completely and wont grab the gear. Any idea on where to start looking for issues, or what to look for in regards to linkage. 

Posted

Hope that there's no intenal issue.  I would check the adjusments on the cables.  You might be having issues with 1s or 3rd but they aren't manifesting themselves as 5th gear is doing.  The manual says the shift lever has to be in a vertical position when in neutral.  I expect yours is otherwise you'd have more than a 5th gear issue.  If this doesn't help, maybe an internal investigation might be in order.

Gear Shift Adjustments.jpg

Posted

I have to admit, that it does sound like an internal problem. But you have to check out the easy stuff first. Like the fluid level both in the transmission, and the clutch. Low fluid levels in either, can cause shifting problems. 

On most transmissions there's an inspection plate, or a way to look inside without taking the transmission apart. Although it would still have to be removed from the vehicle. Internal problems are usually pretty easy to spot.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
2 hours ago, Anthony Butler said:

Guess it's going to be a winter project 

You always want to check the easy stuff first. Mostly just to give it a chance to be an easy fix. Although it almost never happens that way for me. 

So yours was likely to be an internal problem from the start. Either that or a linkage issue that can only be diagnosed, and fixed by removing the transmission. I didn't want to point that out, because sometimes it actually does turn out to be something simple. 

But the good news is, that now you can freshen up the clutch friction surfaces. As well as any seals, bearings, and cables. Increasing the reliability of an off road vehicle is always a plus.

As to that tranny. All manual transmissions are very simple. A mechanically inclined beginner can easily do this. But after pulling the transmission out, you don't feel comfortable with doing the work. Do NOT disassemble it. It's okay to open the side inspection plate and look inside. In fact, that's an important first step. Maybe it's a pin, that can be reached through the inspection plate. 

But be aware that while any competent transmission shop can fix whatever is wrong inside, and probably for a reasonable price. If you disassemble it, and end up taking it in to the shop, in pieces, in a box. They do NOT like that at ALL. If it were an old Chevy, they'd just charge ten times what the job was worth. But since they don't really have any reason to do something that's a pain in their butt. They'll probably just pass on rebuilding an unfamiliar brand. Thus leaving you in a tight spot.

So be aware of this, as well as the fact that they likely won't provide ANY parts. Unless you find some kind of Joyner mechanic, parts will be your problem alone.

Good luck with your project, and take some pictures to share with us along the way. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By Skeeter22
      I going from a Yama Rhino and bought a 2026 Ranger 1000XP. I was riding and lost all steering. The steering wheel just spins freely. I have one other video of this happing but has anyone else experienced this.
    • By rdc
      I have a 2007 Joyner 1100 sand viper and  before it even get's to where the thermostat opens up the oil pressure get's so low I have to shut it down. What could fix this ? I thought about adding an oil cooler with fan, thicker oil, or removing the thermostat. Any advice?
    • By nrggaragebuilds
      2004 250DL DIRT DEVIL. Hey y’all, I already know this is a long shot. But I am looking for a the “prick gear” assembly that makes reverse work for my external reverse gearbox. OEM PN D250.08.103 and its assembly. I bought the kart as a basket case, but I saw that the reverse box was present so I was optimistic.  Upon starting working on the buggy I realized there was a block off plate in plate of there the normal gear would be. If my understanding is correct that means the transmission no longer has reverse gear. I figured it’s just a standard bevel gear and I could probably find a gear to make work, but I don’t want to spend the time making all the other housing parts to shim the gear perfectly. Has anyone spare parts, or figured out an aftermarket solution from McMaster? I already know it’ll be a challenge to get this box to be happy again, but figured I would ask  
    • By AlphaSerenity
      Hello,
      Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
      While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
       
      Here is another video of the clutches in action:
       
      I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated.  I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
      After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
      Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts  
       
      Thanks!
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...