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By REDfletching
Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
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By Buddee
Put a new carb on the 500 to replace the leaking OE one. Machine idles fine and mid and top end runs great. It tends to have a hesitation right from the start - bottom end. Thinking it may be the air/fuel screw?? I didn't do anything with the carb out of the box and is it direct replacement for my machine. Of interest is the manual choke doesn't seem to work very good now.... wonder is it getting too much air?
Any help appreciated!
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By great8redsfan
Okay folks. I have a low power issue. Been like this for a few years. Place I work at bought 3 and all have lost most of the pulling power. They gave them away after local shop worked on one for 3 months and it had great power for about 1 month and then crap. They replaced throttle body, fuel injector, spark plug and IAC motor. Seat belt switches have wires cut and left open so no seat belt warning light anymore. It revs to 6k rpm in neutral but when put in gear and take off in low it just doesn’t seem to want to go anymore. Running 93 octane fuel with Stabil. Any ideas greatly appreciated. I dont have a scan tool but no codes on dash. If held to floor it pops a little and runs almost 5K rpm but if I let off pedal about an inch it smoothed out and revs up to 6k rpm.
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