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    • By aefron88
      This post will explain how to hook up your PC to the ECU of a Hisun/Coleman/Etc UTV to be able to read error codes & engine parameters for troubleshooting purposes.
      This is applicable to all small engines using the Delphi MT-05 ECU. This should cover all fuel injected Hisun models, as well as various other Chinese FI engines, as the Delphi MT-05 ECU seems to be the favored ECU solution.
      Even though we get actual engine error codes to display on the dash, sometimes we have “pending codes” (not yet confirmed by the ECU) or other intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose, for example a poorly connected sensor that may give intermittent false readings, or a sensor that’s putting out bad date, but not bad enough for the ECU to realize.
      The setup requires 2 cables, which are available for around $25 combined, a PC with a USB port, and some charityware software called “HUD ECU Hacker”. This gives the same functionality as the $300 dealer code scanner for a fraction of the price.
      In searching I found info about HUD ECU Hacker, but I have yet to see info anywhere about how to hook it up to a Hisun, so I took the leap and bought some cables, and made it work. I will show a step by step of how to do so in post two.
      I will be breaking this down into 2 posts:
      Delphi ECU Info & Overview (This post) System setup & use Delphi ECU Info (Skip ahead to the next post if your eyes glaze over technical details)
      The Delphi MT-05 ECU was developed to allow small engines to use fuel injection. A fuel injection system requires feedback from various sensors to operate efficiently. This feedback allows the adjustment of ignition timing, fuel injection volume, etc to efficiently and cleanly produce the most power possible from a given engine.
      The MT-05 ECU has a number of sensors that are required for proper functioning including; Coolant temp, crankshaft position, intake temp, intake pressure, exhaust O2, throttle position, as well as some other optional sensors that are used on more complex vehicles.
      From the sensors the ECU adjusts: Fuel injector timing/pulse, Idle air control valve, and ignition coil

      The Delphi MT-05 puts out diagnostic data, however it is not ODB2 like a modern car, where is where it gets tricky reading it. There are three options, there is an old 16 bit piece of software Delphi has that is not able to run on a modern computer, there is the motorscanner tool for dealers ($300), or there is freeware HUD ECU Hacker with the proper cables.
    • By Irons
      Hopefully this helps somebody because I couldn't find any info on this runaway condition.

      Drove 1/2 mile to the gas station and when I started up to leave the starter stuck on. Turn key off starter is still running~! Limp it home wondering what the heck to do, get it in the garage and pull the negative battery terminal to get it to stop. Whew, WTF?

      Calm down and start checking things, starter is hot of course but nothing is smoking and nothing smells burnt. Pull battery cover off and start checking wires from battery to relay and relay to the starter. OK good nothing is hot, nothing is crispy and nothing is melted. Probably smoked the starter though. If this had happened to my wife and I wasn't around the machine would have run until the battery died and probably melted down/burned.

      I'll get to the point to save you folks some time and trouble. Because this is a kymco machine you need 2 different Kawasaki parts to make this repair, and information is scarce to say the least. The switch and a sub harness to connect it to the machine's plug.

      Everything works now, but the starter sounds horrible so I'll be changing that too before spring.

      Good luck out there and hopefully this is just a freak occurrence, but if I were you I'd get rid of this kymco part and put the Kawasaki replacement in now.

      Switch, Magnetic is part number 27010-0767
      Sub Harness Start Relay is part number 26031-Y034
       
       

    • By ILoveOldJunk
      Recently acquired a 21 year old Mule.  The previous owner let the brake master cylinder run dry, and when I flushed the brakes, one wheel's brakes locked up.  I took the wheel off, but cannot get the axle nut off, and there is not enough space to get my gear puller behind the drum anyway.  Anybody had an issue with seized brakes?  How can I get this thing off to replace it or rebuild it?
    • By Werhat
      Hi folks,
      I have a Mule 550 (FE290D engine) that sat for several years and would not start.  A few years ago I replaced the fuel filter and carburetor, at which point it started right up and developed full power.  More recently, I've changed the air filter, fuel pump, ignition coil (gapped to spec), and spark plug, and adjusted the valves.  The engine still has a lope/surge at part throttle and at idle.  Rather than idling at a stable speed, it speeds up and slows down until it quits.  It snaps to life right away if I open the throttle, so I don't think it's starved of fuel.  I can always get it to restart immediately if I choke it while cranking, then it will die after several seconds again.  It takes some cranking to start hot when not choked.  I've tried adjusting the idle mixture, but no setting seems to make it stable.  It won't idle at all with the throttle fully closed; I have to turn the stop screw to hold it slightly open.
      I suspect it's getting idle air, since the passages are open, but that the idle jet isn't providing adequate fuel, such that I am having to hold the throttle open and idle it off the main jet which isn't stable.  This is just speculation.  I've cleaned the idle jet and tried a larger size, but it made zero difference.  The carburetor seems to be clean.  It's been doing this since I installed the new carb.  The gas tank seems to be clean, although it's hard to see inside.
      I posted a video of what it's doing:
      What's next?  Try another carburetor?
      Thanks.
       
    • By rsar
      Just got quoted $770 for my Mule's first 50 hour service. Is it just me, or does this seem insanely excessive? I was expecting something in the $350 to $500 range and thinking that even $500 would be a little high. Is dealer service really necessary at 50 hours? At this price I think I'd like to shop around for a mechanic that could do it for half the price. I don't really have the option of shoping around for a cheaper Kawasaki dealer, as there is just this one dealer a reasonable distance away (30 min). The next closest olne is 3 hours away.
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