Quantcast
Jump to content


Wake up, time to get going


Recommended Posts

Posted

What has happened? I think everybody died. Nobody is posting.

I figured too much time has passed without anybody shaking the bushes so I figured I would give it a try. I've done a few things to my Trooper that I thought might be of interest. First off, I tore out my electrcal 4 wheel drive switch which has proved to be unreliable. I replaced it with a mechanical one. I basicly use a portion of the back side of the existing plastic box. This has a sleeve which plugs into the diff that has an O-ring and a shaft seal for the pin that stickis out of the diff. The pin defaults to the front dif being engaged which is pinout. When it's pushed it (4 wheel disengaged ), it pushes against a spring in the dif which which pushes it out ( 4 wheel engaged ) when the pin is released. I took the existing spring in the OEM box and used it to push the pin in. when I pull the lever back on the dash, it cmpresses this spring which allows the dif to disengage when when ready rather then when I pull the lever. The lever on the dash is a over center cam type setup so it either springs to the up position or down position switching about mid way in it's stroke. Works real good and is reliable.

In the picture of the mechanism on the dif, you'll see that my steering column has a hose clamp on it. The inner shaft was a little loose in the outter one so I put a 1/8" wide by a thicness that took up the play peice of steel and tapped it in between the two shafts. The hose clamp holds it from comming out. No more steering column rattle.

I also added a grab handle for the passenger side. The main round shafts are from a crutch which has real strong aluminum that can still be welded and It has a way to adjust the position of the handle already done for you. I get good grip on the dash plastic which is quite thick ( close to 3/16" ) and at a corner which spreads the stress real well. The other end is anchored to the lower frame of my windsheild. It's feels very strong without any dash flex when I pull hard on it. I have been concerned with the passengers arms should I crash or roll over. I'M not real confortable with wrist restraining straps. I want to be able to exit as quick as possible. I use camlock seat harnesses to I can be out in an instant. The driver can hold the steering wheel tight in an accident and now so can the passenger keeping arms out of harms way.

Well this is long enough to make up for the lack of post the last few days. Kinarfi stopped to visit on his way to Las Vegas over the weekend. I enjoyed meeting him and his wife and chatting with them for a while. He and his wife are both real nice.

Have fun

Lenny

2145452170104282158CxXEWp_th.jpg- 2087950160104282158QgBWTu_th.jpg- 2298715100104282158XJXzsc_th.jpg- 2877039820104282158AfIzoP_th.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Rmillerdesigns
      Hello. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU 500. I was putting on a lightbar and i screwed up and didn't disconnect the battery so when i was taking of the positive cable to put on the power from the lightbar it sparked and now the utv has no power. I turn the key over and all i hear is a chirp. No lights or anything. Everything that comes from the battery to the jumper box up by the battery shows voltage but anything coming out does not such as to the winch or anything like that
    • By gridlock
      After three years, my Sector completely died.  Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged.  The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
      As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed.  I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly.  I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)).  Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts.  I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
      So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries.  Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current.  The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
      Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
      A few questions:
      In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that.  Is there any more info about that?
      Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium?  I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
      Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion?  As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time.  What do you think?
       


    • By Jamesshoop1
      This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up  and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
    • By Greg Kilgore
      I'm 99.9% sure head gasket is blown.
      Don't have coolant in oil. That a good thing. But think coolant is getting in combustion chamber. 
      I did compression test.
      Got 120psi walked away. Came back to 105psi 15 minutes later.
      How hard is it to replace?
      https://youtu.be/N31mOtOPuKI?si=nSnuF4-weRU2T10t
      Advise?
×
×
  • Create New...