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Similar Topics
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By WCF
Hi Joyner Gang
New to the Joyner group. I'm making long travel for the 1100 Sand viper. I'm trying to make something that will work as well or even better than the RZR Rino etc. At this time the front has 14" travel rear has 16" of travel. Still developing the suspension. comets are welcome. Ask questions and I will get back to the Forum
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By Ridge Runner
Hi
i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter. The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening. There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place. The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them. This is right by the tail light assemblies. I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in. Bottom line I’m making it worse.
coleman was no help. If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole. Any ideas?
thanks
Ridgerunner
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By MISTERTIRE66
Recently inherited 08 joyner renegade r4 800.. seems to be sound mechanically but I cannot find bal joints. Any pone help with other replacement part number please.
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By LarryLarryQuiteRepairy
Hello,
Background: Bought a used 2012 700, added 2 small LED lights, wiring for a sprayer and changed front CV axles.
Had no electrical issues until recently. The old battery stopped charging so we got a new one, Rhino still wouldn't charge it.
-Started next day, drove 15-20min, then out of nowhere the check engine light came on and temp too. 4WD started to automatically engage and disengage repeatedly. Charging display started jumping all around between 11 to 13 to 15v.
-Relays, fuses, and battery connections seemed good.
-Continuity on rectifier would jump btwn OL and 00.0
-Rectifier wires from stator all read 20-21v at idle
-Rectifier diode test had 1 bad reading. So, I replaced it with a new one (but still using original plugs)
Started it up, still shows no change (12.1v idle, 12.8 with some RPM)
Also, I feel like now I maybe also smell burning plastic?
Does anyone have experience with this problem or have a recommendation of where to go next?
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