Quantcast
Jump to content

Massimo Buck 250 check engine light

John Walker

By John Walker
in Massimo UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

John Walker Newbie

John Walker

Posted
Posted

Hi new here. Just bought a Massimo Buck250X for some neighborhood riding. New unit rides great and seems to work fine, except when full throttle for 5 min or more the check engine light comes on. Air filter is fine, and oil is topped off, any ideas? 
I figure it’s just a sensor issue but I’ve been wrong before. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Alex changed the title to Massimo Buck 250 check engine light
Shop battery chargers at ChromeBattery.com

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • Blaine
      How to check a 2013 Prowler 1000 XTZ Water Pump
      By Blaine
      Was wondering if anyone knows how to check a waterpump on a 2013 arctic cat prowler 1000 XTZ My cat overheated  and I was not working it that hard Have checked for antifreeze in oil in case it was a head gasket but its clean 
      Next step will be to check pump and thermostat I know how to check thermostat  but clueless on checking pump I did refill rad and the started machine with cap off and coolant level did not change
    • Greg Kilgore
      Coolant temp, volt, and oil pressure gauge.
      By Greg Kilgore
      I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter.

      1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter.

      And an electric temp gauge.

       
      Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow.
      I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. 
      Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.)
      Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door.



      The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it.
      The voltage gauge
      .
      Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect.  Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.
       
       
       
       
       
    • Greg Kilgore
      Coolant temp, volt, and oil pressure gauge.
      By Greg Kilgore
      I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter.

      1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter.

      And an electric temp gauge.

       
      Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow.
      I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. 
      Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.)
      Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door.



      The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it.
      The voltage gauge
      .
      Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect.  Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.
       
       
       
       
       

    • Greg Kilgore
      Cooling fan. Not just for radiators.
      By Greg Kilgore
      We all know summer is hot inside the cabs of our SXS. So I've rigged up a couple of fans to help cool down the cab.
       
      I didn't want to drill the fan's "support rails" into the ROPS (Roll Over Protection System), aka roll bars. So I used water clamps to hold them in place. 
       
      I just need to replace the wires I ran with bigger gauge. Then finish the wiring to switches, relays, and battery. But the hardest part. The actual mounting of the fans is complete. Also just in case anyone plans on doing this. I may have to only use 1 fan in the middle instead on 2. Due the the draw on the battery.
      The fans are 12", 12V 80W. So I'm figured they were 6.7 amps apiece. Used the WAVe formula to get unknown values Watts=Amps*Volts then solve for unknown. I know the watts and volts from sticker on fan. So just used above formula to get amps. So a 7 amp fuse should be OK and a 10 amp fuse will be good. 
      So pulling 14 amps from the battery all day may be too much for the charging system to keep up with. And I haven't even installed the radio yet. So I will have to test and let you know.
       
      See pics below.

    • Sommer Wildes
      New 2021 Tracker 800LE Crew Hot Dash area
      By Sommer Wildes
      TLDR (too long didn't read) in blue for quick scanning
      Hey all! I'm new to the Side-by-side/UTV world. We own a smallish farm and decided to go with the 2021 Tracker 800LE Crew. We like the seating and the ride is smooth. However as a newbie I have some questions that maybe some of you longtime side-by-side/UTV owners can help with. We're still in the "break-in" period and it seems that after 30 min or less of driving the dash area gets super hot. You can feel the heat waves coming off the floorboard by your feet and my phone sitting in the little hole (where a radio might go) felt like I left it in the hot sun for too long. The glovebox was also way too hot. 
       
      So the question is, is this normal, or should I start checking engine coolant and filters? We literal have had it a day. I have read forums and looked up info and can't find anyone mentioning this issue. I just don't want to burn the thing up before we've even put it through it's paces ya know!
       
      Thanks for any help!

  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Gallery Images

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...