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By rdc
I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC
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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By Jody Deville
I’m looking to best place to buy replacement axles for the rear in my buggy. Both axles are bad. Where is the best place to find them?
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By a4x4nutt
2021 uforce 800 turning radius is awful .
I just bought it added perfex lift
And 1.5 wheel spacers
The turning radius was bad before the lift .
I looked for steering stops under the tie rod boots and steering knuckle for steering stops . Found nothing .
Are the stops inside the steering rack ? Is there a replaced steering rack with longer throw to curb this issue ?
Any suggestions?
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By schreib69
I just bought an older (2008) Teryx 750 and am having some concerns. Hoping of course, that most are not too big. . . but more knowledgeable folks like yourselves will surely have some ideas. Thanks in advance.
-- about 2700 hrs, camo version
-- Starting: after not running much at the auction site, I tried it and it was tough to start but half of this was likely I did not quite know the tricks for how long to keep the choke on. However, once it started it was kind of hard to keep running until it warmed up(once warmed it starts perfectly every time with no choke). Now, back to running after the first ignition: I had to hold the RPM's up a bit to keep it running and when doing so it sounded as if a little gnome was inside the engine pounding on something at random intervals. Wondering if this could be detonation-- "knocking"? After warming, it disappeared completely. Maybe just need higher octane gas??
-- After starting and running a bit there was a pretty terrible smell, most "like" burning rubber or an electrical fire. No fire or resolution of this. Eventually this TOO went mostly away, but still basically present. Could it be adjustment needed for the main belt variable speed tranny?
-- When I move from neutral into either Lo or HIGH range forward gears, I get gear clashing. I did NOT put foot on brake and read in manual(just NOW) that you are supposed to do so. (I have NOT gotten back out to check and see if this matters. ) OR, could it be part of the drive system is mashed up??! Geez, hope not.
-- There is a big open hole allowing direct sight into the belt transmission on the back right side. This can't be normal, it must require some plastic cover. Right? Any rodent could get right into the transmission!
-- THere appears to be no muffler or spark arrestor unit. This "could " be the cause of some of the smell. . . ?? but that should not smell like burning rubber or electrical smell. . .
SO. That is all.
I sure would appreciate any insight on this issues and finally(!). . . if I was to take this into a local dealer what would you say are the top three issues I should have them address first?
thanks!
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