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I can see how that would help, but in the lever there is a machined/cut cam slot that the detent ball rides on. If you "over stroke" the shift lever, you are now trying to raise the detent back out. I get why you did this, but in my case, having the same issues, I elected to do the shift lever extension of 3/4". I posted the thread prior and pictures of what I did. With the approximate 3/4" longer lever, you get the added throw in both directions and still stay well withing the detent ball alignment. Even if you cannot do the welding yourself, remove the shift arm and take it to be lengthened. Reinstall it and you should be good to go, of course with the proper shift cable adjustment. This DOES NOT eliminate any internal issues you might have in the shifter assembly at the transmission. "MOST" of us only have the "too short of travel" issue and the longer shift are does take care of that without any modifications to the hole in the dash or bezel for the shifter. I think a couple people here have had internal problems and of course the shifter cable travel will NOT help. The detents on the shifter still allow for proper movement and the F/N/R light works as it should. Good luck with your fix and hope it remains a fix for you. I know mine has a good solid fix as I've plowed this winter with it several times and pushed some big drifts with it. Before I did the shifter extension, it would jump out of reverse most of the time I needed to give it a bit of throttle. The second snow storm I had the fix done and the remainder of the winter and even now, no issues. Again, good luck and a few pictures of your modifications might help others here. Thanks for posting, Dan

COLEMAN UT 400 NO REVERSE WE FOUND THE CURE! In our case adjustment would make the UT 400 go into reverse but you would loose forward in the doing, very frustrating! However when removing the seat and the upper engine cover you can see the shift lever clearly and with the cable adjusted properly to engage forward and the ever so annoying ratchet sound of reverse gears we found if you apply slight pressure to the shift lever on the transmission it would engage! Turns out there is just simply not enough throw on the cable, So back up to the shift lever and noticed there is a stop next to the detent on the lever that if slightly more gap would allow just a bit more throw. So here is the cure, Remove the nut (10MM) on the cable post, remove the C clip from the pivot post, remove the bezel ring at the shift lever by bending straight the tabs and remove the shift lever. I used a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel and removed about 1/2 of the stop on the inside edge next to where the detent ball will sit on both the reverse and forward sides of the lever (cuz lets just be certain) After reassembly it was noted that simply holding the shift lever into the gear you want and ever so gently tapping the throttle the transmission selects both forward and reverse every time without fail. You see the cable is only as long as it is and adjusting it will only make it go one direction further, but by removing a bit of metal it allows the whole thing to travel just enough to make the difference. I'm not going to say this is the end all be all but it sure worked for us and maybe with a bit of luck will for you as well.

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

Joe, everyone on here is well aware of your opinion. Feel free to share useful technical info or answer questions. You have contributed plenty of useful posts over the years, but showing up just to post garbage bashing certain brands isn't useful to the discourse. We are all aware we bought cheaper machines and made compromises in doing so. This forum can be a useful place where we can all come together and share helpful info about these machines.

Couldn't have said it better myself. For a guy who hates Hisun he sure spends a lot of time posting in the Hisun forum...

Obviously Joe you're on an anti-HISUN mission. Just speaking for myself, I'm tired of your constant bad mouthing my machine!! You've made your point, get a life!