Do you have a copy of the factory service manual? if not I can get it to you. I would also inspect the fuses next to the battery. Make sure there is no blown fuse. Also make sure the battery is at full charge.

Contact me, I have the service manual I can give you

562-682-7859

Matt

Is the seatbelt plugged in? It has a limiter if not connected 

I'll look tomorrow at the one I have here to verify. It's a carburator version as well

Here is the link to look at the Yamaha part numbers for what you need.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2009-yamaha-grizzly-350-irs-4wd-hunter-pastel-deep-green-yfm/o/m144728#sch606931

Yamaha CLUTCH HOUSING COMP. Part # 5UH-16611-00-00

Yamaha CLUTCH CARRIER ASSY Part # 5UH-16620-00-00

Yamaha GASKET, CLUTCH COVER Part # 5UH-15463-00-00

Yes, I'll provide the Yamaha part number later today. 

The Yardsport YS400 is a mix of parts from the Yamaha parts bin. The manufacture is HiSUN, who also happens to manufacture parts for Yamaha and more OEM's. The bottom end is basicaly the same as the Yamaha 350 Grizzly/Bruin. The top end is more of less off of a Yamaha Kodiak 400, early 2002 style. I would start by using OEM Yamaha parts for the clutch. 2007-2011 Yamaha Grizzly 350 wet clutch. the parts are of higher quality than the Chinese counterparts. This might be part of your problem. They bolt right on and will work and last much better.

Here is the wiring diagram for the single wire type. Along with a pic of the sensor in the cylinder head. The color of the single wire might be White with Blue tracer.

When you say you went through both clutches in just about 250 miles, I'm guess the replacement clutch was worn and possibly had wear marks on the clutch hub as well? did you do any work to the primary and secondary clutches at all?

Well, I know a little about these clutches. are you still having issues with them? And if so, what is happening to the wet clutch. and second, are you having any issues with the outer clutches at all? When you replaced the clutch, did you use an OEM clutch or an aftermarket one? Did you replace the one way bearing as well. and when you replaced the clutch, did you replace the outer clutch drum?

Matt

It's a EFI version right? Or is it a carburator one. Your year should be an EFI with a two wire sensor. The single wire sensors versions had a single wire with a fairly large brass ring connector going to it

did you figure it out? just interested. I thought it was the seat belt connector at first. they do that to prevent the unit from going up to speed without the seatbelt connected.

has anyone gotten back to you regarding this? if not, let me know.

Has anyone gotten back to you regarding this issue. I can help you if you are still having issues. matt

Hello, I'm not sure if anyone ever got back to you, but yes they are and should fit in

I would also recommend the above people, great quality products.

The water temp coolant sensor is located on the thermostat housing. It is a 2 wire connector that goes back to the ECU. On the fan motor side of life there is also a 2 wire connector, but in-line to that is also a coolant fan motor circuit breaker between the fan motor relay and the fan motor. There is also a fan motor fuse before the fan motor relay. So all these things will need to be inspected to ensure a proper working coolant system. As for the wires to the coolant temp sensor, there should be a 2 wire connector close by. As most electrical connectors tend to keep their natural flow. So, it should be somewhere close to the position of the coolant temp sensor. I am attaching a wiring diagram to the coolant electrical system, as well as the colors of the wires to the electrical connector. The wiring diagram is specifically for the 2008 700cc version you have. If you can't find the electrical connector, it might have been zip tied to the wiring harness somewhere nearby. Check for a 2 wire connector not being used with the same wire colors as stated.

Again, check the coolant fan motor fuse first, then inspect the coolant fan motor relay, then inspect the connector to the coolant fan motor itself. I would also test the coolant temp sensor for proper OHM (see diagram). If all of these things are working properly, then the coolant system will work as designed. The fan should only come on after about 205 degrees. If the fan is on the entire time, (such as a fan bypass switch)  the engine will not warm up properly, and thus run rich during the warm up cycle. You could end up fouling spark plugs over time.  I hope this helps, if you have any questions after looking at this, please let me know. Matt

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Awesome! have fun with the family, send me some pics as well and I'll post them on the website.

it sounds like  a clutch problem to me. I have had bad clutch weights cause this same problem. If you are still having this issue, check out the slider weights in the variator side of the clutch. But it does sound like its clutch related because if the clutch is not fully working, it is telling the engine that the clutch is engaged, causing the big clunk you hear when you try to shift even while not moving. it would also cause the drive line to drag a bit at idle.

Normally the only thing preventing the engine from starting is the brake lock out switch, some units need the parking brake to be applied to be able to start. Next would be the neutral selector switch. Some engines need to ensure the unit is in neutral to start. By the look of that connector, it might be a bypass switch of sorts. But start with the basics, check to ensure the parking brake does not have a switch on it more than two wires. Two wires will be needed to send the signal to the instrument to allow the dash light to come on letting you know the parking brake is on, if it has more than 2 wires, then its likely also working as a safety switch to prevent the engine from starting without the parking brake on. As for the neutral switch, it should have more than two wires, this has to be working for the engine to start. Although the dash light might light up, that doesnt mean the switch is fully operational. If the switch is faulty, then it will not send the signal to the starter relay allowing the engine to turn over.

I agree with Kenfain, but knowing the HiSUN uses metric bolts and fasteners, I would think 10mm is the closest thing to the 1/2" bolt. the 10mm is smaller than the 1/2", but larger than the 3/8". Most of the bolts on the HiSUN are either 10mm or 12mm when it comes to the big boys. they do have some smaller 8mm bolt openings but this would be too small to handle the snow plow mount area.

Im wondering what the problem is still? It was not very clear. I understand he is upset, but I would like to help him as well if I knew the extent of the problems he is still having. Is he having engine issues? rear end issues? Hope he chimes back in so we can try.