T-boss 410

Sorry you don't have it running yet, but I am happy to hear that Massimo was willing to help.

On 2/23/2023 at 10:06 PM, k-bo said:

I think the sooner you change it out, the better. Do it before it ruins other electrical parts. If you don't want a push button, all of the starter switches have the starter function built in. I recommend getting something that is not too cheap.

k-bo

 

Is there a particular brand you would recommend?

I'll do that. I tried reading the wiring diagram in the service manual, but it's a bit confusing. Did you get a switch with a harness attached, or with terminals? Is this a 2, 3, or 4 wire switch?

Thanks 👍

So replacing the switch with a new one would not be a good idea, huh? Are there any universal switches that would work the same, without the push button start?

My starter has been difficult to engage since I've had it. I thought it was the battery, so I replaced it. The OEM battery did have a weak cell, so the new battery was needed. However, that didn't change things much. I still have to hit the key at least 2X to get it to start.

Can you please explain what you did and how you did it? That's very interesting!

So I may have a starter switch problem? This UTV was purchased in an auction from the manufacturer in Texas. I don't use it much (I need a trailer), and it only has 15 miles on it. But it was a demo model, so maybe the switch is a bit worn.

The fuel pump will have to be removed, assuming that it's a fuel injected engine. The fuel gauge is built into the fuel pump assembly. Sounds like maybe the float is stuck somehow.

Be extra careful working around fuel!

Just curious, and off topic, but how well does your engine turn over? Mine will usually only spin once. I hit the key again, and it will spin quicker and start. I have a larger than stock battery (340cca's), but it really didn't change it much.

Thanks 👍

I don't mean to seem ignorant, but would a improperly functioning voltage regulator cause the issue? Or maybe the stator is malfunctioning, which would cause the voltage regulator to heat up.

When you turn the key to the first stop, do you hear the fuel pump running? It should run for a few seconds to prime the system.

The spark sounds weak as you described it. Have you checked the battery, or maybe something in the charging system? Did you see what the output of the charging system was prior to the UTV stalling?

Have you actually seen a spark at the plug? It may be fouled or not functioning properly.

Isn't the noise in the rear axle?

I believe there's a service manual for downloading here on the site. I have one for the same utv.

On 1/7/2023 at 12:34 AM, Bill Hughes said:

There are many reputable brands. Most people don't understand what raising the octane does and its often mis advertised as a performance booster. It's not. It simply makes gasoline less explosive to allow for higher compression for engines that need that. Most modern engines are not designed for higher octane. I can't directly comment on the t410 engine design. I don't have one. 

Can you advise what ones may be reputable?

Thanks 

Thanks!

I've checked with several gas stations near me, and so far none offer E0. I would love to find some E0 for my truck, too. The internet shows several stations in my area that have E0, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

I guess I should clarify that statement. It's available, but at a very high cost.

I have read that the octane boosters don't work as advertised. Have you had any experience with them?

Anyone know why the manufacturer calls for 91 octane for the T-boss 410? That fuel is becoming unobtainium around here unless a loan is taken out.

TIA!

Shoulda bought a Massimo 😉 (JK)

I'm still thinking it's the battery cables. Until I can find out what the stock guage is, I can't go forward with replacements. I don't have any kind of tools that I could use to measure it.

2 hours ago, Ben1098 said:

decompression release problems will give the "stall" and require multiple hits to get it to finally crank over.  Valve adjustment (exhaust) is critical to the decomp pin opening the valve.  Other problem is the actual decomp assy worn or a groove chipped out in the cam follower where the pin rubs at low RPM.  See older post of mine on the decomp assy in the cam....interchangeable with Rhino....identical down to the welds and flyweight interference problem.

Does this particular engine (Linhai 352cc engine) actually have a decompression release? I have a copy of the service manual, and I can't locate anything in the manual about a decompression release. Can you possibly show me where it is located? I'm trying to do as you advised, but I'm jot having any luck locating it.

The issue of hitting the starter a few times isn't a common occurence. This happens about 50% of the time that I start it when cold, especially after it's sat for a few days.

Thanks much!

Are you referring to the 2017 Kymko 450i post?

Mine came with a 300cca, which just wasn't doing the job. So I bought a 350cca, which seemed to do the job, but it doesn't seem like it's still turning over fast enough. I remember a post from a member who was aware of the problem and was working on a fix. I could fix it myself, but I don't know what wire guage to go with.

That's good to hear, Joe. I hope you didn't just jinx yourself 😎. I haven't had to contact Massimo, so I don't know if they really did improve their customer relations.

There was a post here a while back that a guy had discovered that the battery cables were undersized, and he was working with the manufacturer to correct it. I never heard from him again. I can make my own cables, but I don't know what size to use. I'm assuming you don't have any issues with starting your UTV, but with mine it occasionally doesn't want to turn over. If I turn it off, then hit the starter again, it will start. I thought that maybe it was because of the undersized cables.

Anyway, even though I have ribbed you about your Massimo, I'm glad that you're enjoying it.