TapBoss

For around the yard I have a 5x7 ft trailer that I originally bought for my first atv.  Now it's used for yard cleanup and other projects at home and deer camp.

My guess is there is a zero missing from the miles since that would put it at averaging 11 mph which is more likely. If not, ask them how the miles and hours are almost equal.

4 minutes ago, Beaverdam83 said:

Turns out it was a scam.   It's too bad that someone from this site sent me to the info to contact his friend.   Googled the friends email and bam!   Scam central.   I hate people like that.   Thank you for your info and knowledge 

 

Please report whoever referred to the Mods, need them out of here too. 

So I'm out a deer camp and ran the sxs for 2 days.  The next morning, fired it up and headed out.  Made it about 50 yds then bogged down and died.   Restarted twice and only moved a few feet then would not restart.  Took the truck out for the day to hunt and when I got back I could hear the fuel pump kick on when the key was turned but it would still not start.  Added stabilizer to the fuel and put the trickle charger on it and tried again the next day, still the same - pump coming on and turning over but no start.  Other than spark plug, air filter or injector clog any ideas?  Out in the middle of nowhere so limited on resources.

Going by the hours, that's only about 10hrs/Month.  Something about the Hrs vs miles definitely doesn't add up though. Who has the Wolverine up for sale, dealer or private?

With shipping costs being what they are, I can't see it being worth it to even bother (then include the scam aspect).

If you're not mechanically inclined, I would look at what dealers are nearby and do a search of their service reviews.  Stick to the main manufacturers, Polaris, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Can-Am and Honda.  Probably not going to find much in electric models no matter where you look.  

2020's should be the last year of the Hisun made models.  Is this the same part?

https://www.amazon.com/Shift-sector-MASSIMO-UTV400-MENARDS/dp/B08W3SRJVD/ref=asc_df_B08W3SRJVD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598249778550&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11289044336042763437&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-1700084526197&psc=1

10 hours ago, aefron88 said:

In my experience with "structural" items that may see a lot of flex or pressure the best bet is to use something like this.

bondo doesnt flex enough and will fall off, certain epoxies may be ok in lower stress situations. The staple welder style tool above gives the plastic real structure to stay together long term.

Thanks for the info, saved it for later. 
Walked our trail again today, didn’t find anymore pieces though. 

Was thinking of trying to locate a similar thickness plastic and trying to patch with it and epoxy. I may even have the same camo pattern dip film lying around. 

Seems odd there would be noise from the front end if it was not even in 4WD yet.  Maybe going from reverse into forward low right away it did not get engaged properly.  I usually try to move forward first or keep going the same direction in those situations before changing into low.  

So, coming down a trail this weekend I heard a noise I did not like.  When I got to the bottom I stopped and got out to look around.  I had a cedar branch sticking out of the passenger side in front of the rear tire.  This branch poked out 2 pretty good sized holes.  I was able to recover one piece from the topside of the skid plate and found one other small piece on the trail but I am still left with a couple golf ball sized holes in my plastic. I've found a couple products online, something called plasti-hair and some bondo for plastic bumpers.  Anyone have any experience with either of these or another suitable way to repair the remaining holes?  

I was able to superglue the one big piece I recovered and it stayed on the rest of the weekend.

So you backed out of the sand, switched to low and went to go forward again in low when the front started screaming without being in 4WD?

On 10/8/2022 at 11:53 AM, Greg Kilgore said:

Agree with Rev limiter. Possible Disconnected the seat belt connection?

Check it for bad connection or broken wire.

No seat belt requirement that I know of on that year Massimo, never have mine on around the farm.

I wouldn't even attempt to push my 550 to 40 mph, only rated to 35. 

From my manual:

INCORRECT ENGINE IDLING SPEED

Engine 1. Cylinder and cylinder head • Incorrect valve clearance • Damaged valve train components

2 Air filter • Clogged air filter element

Fuel system 1. Throttle body • Damaged a loose throttle body joint • Improper throttle cable free play • Flooded throttle body • Faulty air induction system Electrical system

1. Battery • Discharged battery

Does this help?

Haven't sat in one to check out the room, but have you checked Kubota?  

Hope the JB works out!

The way they are set up I think you can rule out being over-filled.  Sounds like it has still been running so something cracking it from the inside doesn't sound plausible either.  My guess is a weak spot in the case when manufactured.  Other than a replacement, I'd probably opt for Industrial Strength JB Weld (depending on how big the crack is).  I've seen guys fix automotive tranny's with that stuff.

I know Joe B on here used all Rhino parts for his MSU500, 2018 I think was his model yr.  If you search thru his posts in the Massimo section he may mention it. Would imagine you would just have to use the same size engine for reference.  Rhino's were only made from 04-12.

Appears to be a Park/Neutral switch failure, found it on a Bennche site.  Link to manual: http://www.bennche.com/uploads/product/17_5.pdf

Glad it worked out!

Did you try Motorcycle Dr?

If you still have trouble locating parts,  search for Yamaha Rhino parts for the same year. It's a good bet that they'll be a match (just ask Joe).