Savage3

According to the manual, the pulse should be 96-144 ohms.

https://www.azmotors.fr/eclates/MANUEL/PIECES_KYMCO/UXV_700I_SPORT-manuel-atelier.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOop5uEeG8Z2hFo2ywrhOiNvfZEEfIA3TKQhncDBPqGSzlU8boo0U

Well, if you are reading 100 ohms, thats not even close to your posted value of 500. Something is going on.... Have you tested pulse coil for continuity to ground? Does it have any spark while cranking?

Lucky for you, AZ has little humidity and lots of sun! Moisture is the root of the problems that stem from ethanol fuel.

Sorry, I missed the post before this one. The problems I've seen with lithium conversion has been compatibility issue with voltage regulator/rectifier. Yeah, makes sense that 12V relay will pop to protect circuit when installed in 48v circuit.

Quick Troubleshooting Guide Check for 12V at Pin 30 (relay input) → If no voltage, DC-DC converter issue. Turn ignition ON → Check for 12V at Pin 86 → If no voltage, control circuit issue. Listen for click when ignition ON → If no click, relay coil may be bad. Check continuity between 30 and 87 when energized → If open, relay contacts are bad. Replace relay if faulty.

Quick Troubleshooting Guide Check for 12V at Pin 30 (relay input) → If no voltage, DC-DC converter issue. Turn ignition ON → Check for 12V at Pin 86 → If no voltage, control circuit issue. Listen for click when ignition ON → If no click, relay coil may be bad. Check continuity between 30 and 87 when energized → If open, relay contacts are bad. Replace relay if faulty.

Tell us about your battery. How old is it? Does it hold a charge? Have you tested it? Possibly, your battery is not accepting the charge for some reason. Are you testing the regulator and stator while under load or independently? (Back probing while increasing and decreasing rpms) with all components in circuit. This is food for thought, but, im leaning more toward a wiring problem in the charging circuit. If the stator and regulator are new and working, the problem within the circuit should show resistance and voltage drop when back probing during operation. Specifically, how are you determining the system is not charging during idle? These problems are difficult and even more troublesome trying to troubleshoot online. Bear with me, I know some of these questions are basic and redundant. You are the eyes and ears, we are trying to visualize what you are experiencing. We need to know where the current is going or where it is bleeding off. Where specifically within the charging circuit.

Let me start by saying, im not familiar with your specific model. However, I have experienced the same symptoms that resulted from a bad TPS (throttle position sensor). Does your model have a tps and have you tested that component?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/140F7GD6uwmpIGBTyT08HXl5YkYjaHipu/view?usp=drivesdk Read pages 27-30

Should be fine, that is the fastest and easiest way to ensure the timing is correct. It can also be used for other projects in the future. Nice tool to have available. That said, if ya want to save the money, you can set timing by hand.

Yes sir, hope it helps!

On most of the engines I've repaired on Hisun there are marks on timing gear that should be parallel to the head when piston is at top dead center. At the same time, you can remove cover and look at crank. See if key is sheared, look at marks on crank to see if they are lined up. The case should also have a port to view timing marks on flywheel. Also, there should be a port so you can access the crank to turn it with a wrench. (So ya don't need to remove cover) Im not sure how your 700 is set up, but, generally speaking these engines are pretty basic and simple. These are steps if you don't have a timing light.

Go to manualslib and download service manual. I posted it, but, it must be approved by administrator. Read how to perform timing procedure.

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Hisun-Hs700utv-3975571.html