Savage3

According to the manual, the pulse should be 96-144 ohms.

https://www.azmotors.fr/eclates/MANUEL/PIECES_KYMCO/UXV_700I_SPORT-manuel-atelier.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOop5uEeG8Z2hFo2ywrhOiNvfZEEfIA3TKQhncDBPqGSzlU8boo0U

Well, if you are reading 100 ohms, thats not even close to your posted value of 500. Something is going on.... Have you tested pulse coil for continuity to ground? Does it have any spark while cranking?

Lucky for you, AZ has little humidity and lots of sun! Moisture is the root of the problems that stem from ethanol fuel.

Sorry, I missed the post before this one. The problems I've seen with lithium conversion has been compatibility issue with voltage regulator/rectifier. Yeah, makes sense that 12V relay will pop to protect circuit when installed in 48v circuit.

Quick Troubleshooting Guide Check for 12V at Pin 30 (relay input) → If no voltage, DC-DC converter issue. Turn ignition ON → Check for 12V at Pin 86 → If no voltage, control circuit issue. Listen for click when ignition ON → If no click, relay coil may be bad. Check continuity between 30 and 87 when energized → If open, relay contacts are bad. Replace relay if faulty.

Quick Troubleshooting Guide Check for 12V at Pin 30 (relay input) → If no voltage, DC-DC converter issue. Turn ignition ON → Check for 12V at Pin 86 → If no voltage, control circuit issue. Listen for click when ignition ON → If no click, relay coil may be bad. Check continuity between 30 and 87 when energized → If open, relay contacts are bad. Replace relay if faulty.

Tell us about your battery. How old is it? Does it hold a charge? Have you tested it? Possibly, your battery is not accepting the charge for some reason. Are you testing the regulator and stator while under load or independently? (Back probing while increasing and decreasing rpms) with all components in circuit. This is food for thought, but, im leaning more toward a wiring problem in the charging circuit. If the stator and regulator are new and working, the problem within the circuit should show resistance and voltage drop when back probing during operation. Specifically, how are you determining the system is not charging during idle? These problems are difficult and even more troublesome trying to troubleshoot online. Bear with me, I know some of these questions are basic and redundant. You are the eyes and ears, we are trying to visualize what you are experiencing. We need to know where the current is going or where it is bleeding off. Where specifically within the charging circuit.

Let me start by saying, im not familiar with your specific model. However, I have experienced the same symptoms that resulted from a bad TPS (throttle position sensor). Does your model have a tps and have you tested that component?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/140F7GD6uwmpIGBTyT08HXl5YkYjaHipu/view?usp=drivesdk Read pages 27-30

Should be fine, that is the fastest and easiest way to ensure the timing is correct. It can also be used for other projects in the future. Nice tool to have available. That said, if ya want to save the money, you can set timing by hand.

Yes sir, hope it helps!

On most of the engines I've repaired on Hisun there are marks on timing gear that should be parallel to the head when piston is at top dead center. At the same time, you can remove cover and look at crank. See if key is sheared, look at marks on crank to see if they are lined up. The case should also have a port to view timing marks on flywheel. Also, there should be a port so you can access the crank to turn it with a wrench. (So ya don't need to remove cover) Im not sure how your 700 is set up, but, generally speaking these engines are pretty basic and simple. These are steps if you don't have a timing light.

Go to manualslib and download service manual. I posted it, but, it must be approved by administrator. Read how to perform timing procedure.

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Hisun-Hs700utv-3975571.html

Do you have a service manual? The spark has to happen at the correct time. Assuming all of your previous troubleshooting steps are correct......Your timing is certainly an important consideration. If an engine has fuel, spark, and compression, it should run unless the spark timing is off. Generally speaking, when you sprayed starter fluid and the result was popping, the engine was telling you there is a timing issue. Especially if the popping was coming from the intake.

OK, so we have fuel, spark, and compression. Next, is it sparking at the proper time? Check timing. Post results

Does it have spark?

Post voltage at power wire on starter while cranking. Post voltage at battery while cranking.

Can both of you provide battery voltage? 12.43 will not do in many cases. Would like to see 12.6 V DC Put leads on battery while cranking. Post voltage reading while cranking. Pull spark plug and see if it is wet after you hear fuel pump activate. If plug is not wet...... Squirt a little fuel directly into throttle body and let us know if it starts. Charge batteries to 12.6 min. Post results, both of you please

I'd have the dealer repair that machine while it is under warranty. Fuses don't just pop on a new vehicle. Fuses do not pop because linkage is not adjusted. You are experiencing an electrical problem and I can say with a high degree of certainty you will experience more blown Fuses in the very near future. The machine is protecting itself from the real problem by popping the fuse. The machine is also communicating there is an electrical issue to you Boss. Have it figured out before the warranty runs out or you may experience expensive troubleshooting diagnostics later.

Can you post exact model year? Can you post photo of component you are referring too?

The tps should be a 5v reference. The voltage will range from .5 to 4.5v when slowly opening and closing the throttle with key on. (Check manual for specific model and voltage reference) Black probe to ground and red probe to signal wire. No need for static resistance testing, dynamic testing will reveal the problem. Hope this helps...

Red-start relay Black-voltage regulator Y/R-brake interlock switch. I'm going off memory, so check for continuity to ensure this is correct. If I remember correctly, there is a 10 A fuse on the start relay circuit that may have blown. Generally speaking, when a fuse blows, there is a reason. So, try to find the problem if that is the case sir.