66fastcarss

OK. Got Edge motorsports south of Draper, UT to fill up all four shocks to about 175 PSI with nitrogen. Should be good to go on those. They actually did it for free!! Very nice guys there. They mentioned that if there is air in the oil it can make noises like what I am describing, but is seems like this was much more a metal to metal type noise. Will see how these work and then go from there. Maybe and excuse for aftermarket shocks??? Jeff

How do I go about checking pressure and what pressure should be run in these shocks? Where would I go to get the shocks checked/filled--who does that? Thanks for any advice anyone may have. Jeff

2scoops--I certainly didn't mean to leave you out. I appreciate everyone's input and experience on the board. In fact, you were my inspiration to turn the back into a kid friendly environs! I need to post up some pics on upgrades I have done I think you will like. Kinarfi--Please change 2scoops screen name to "CHOPPED LIVER" as he requested... I will look into all the suggestions given. I ran the tires about 25ish PSI. Didn't know if they were ones like the maxis that can go down around 8-12 PSI or if I would destroy them like that. Sounds like I will be putting on Lenny's steering box fix as well. Will also check the droop. Have to get under and change the oil this week anyway (got the new drain plug as suggested that has the lever and the nipple for easier drain next change...thanks Kinarfi Jeff

By the way, I still have the stock ITP Wanna-be tires on and will run them until I either can't stand them or they wear out. What tire pressure should I be running in them? I will order Lenny's steering box fix anyway and see if it makes a difference. Jeff

Mopartist--thanks for the input. I will back off the collars all the way before the next run and see what happens. I also thought of limiting straps as a solution. Lenny--again appreciate your input. I have completely stock setup for suspension. Adjusting collars are down only about one inch from the top but as above will back them off some more. I will look into your steering box fix. Probably not a bad idea to do anyway and yes the steering is somewhat loose, but didn't think of that as the possible noise. Guess there is one way to find out . Jeff

So is that metal smacking sound "NORMAL" for a stock set-up then and is it harmful to the components...i.e. is the shock going to wear out sooner or break some other piece? And what happens if you let out nitrogen out of the shocks...will that affect the rebound or will that just soften the compression? I wouldn't mind new shocks either. Is that $1500 include the coilovers (shocks and springs) all the way around? After yesterday the wife might just allow me to pony up for new shocks Anything else and she would complain but if I can tell her the ride would be much better she might go for it. Jeff

So got the trooper out for a shake down run yesterday. Everything worked great except I need some advice on suspension. Back was ok, but I think the front rebound is super stiff. It did fine over whoops and such, but when I would drive over rocks of all sizes at any speed or more abrupt bumps I would get a very harsh almost gunshot like noise(s), which I believe is the front suspension exploding back to full extension. I don't know if this was the shock or what was actually banging together. Every time it would happen it would send a small sharp jolt through the whole vehicle (we could feel it in the seat as well as hear it it was very loud). The collar on the coil over is about an inch from all the way to the top, so can't imagine the spring is too tight. Is there any other adjustment? Could there be too much nitrogen in the shock and can I check the pressure there with a regular tire gauge? If so what should it be? Any help or recommendations would be appreciated. jeff

Just info for the next guy, but my oil pressure gauge also quick working out of the blue. After reading this post, I followed the advice given from Renegade and took off the red fibrous washers from the terminals on the back of the gauge (actually took off all 3) and it worked just fine again (until I ripped out out the wire from the connector due to a slip when plugging it back in ). Will get that connected back up and expect it will work just fine. Not really sure if it was just a bad connection or if those washers somehow cause problems, but it seems to be fixed now.

Just back to CV boot topic, I had a torn right front CV boot. Ordered it from NAPA with the 6862181 part number for 95 geo metro. Good thing I took my old boot in. The one they gave me was MUCH smaller than my original. No way would it have worked. Was about 1/2 the size on the big end (small end might have fit over the axle). Autozones around me did not have one and so I went to O'rielly Auto Parts and ended up with a Dorman boot that was kind of a generic cut to fit boot that actually was just about perfect fit size wise though much thinner than the original which as mentioned might not be a bad thing. They also brought out a specific 95 geo metro boot that was very small like the one from NAPA. I am not sure if I have different sized CV or why this part was so different when seems to work for others. Just would recommend you take your old CV boot with for comparison if you are not sure! Jeff

Makes sense for lenny to have one...after all his is the fire-breathing machine we all envy!!! Anyone with ideas for a spark arrestor? Looks like most of the ones I saw on line were just a wire mesh (not sure what that is going to do that the header, cat and exhaust haven't already done, but Oh well). Is there anything that I could add that would be minimally intrusive and not look like crap and make the LEO's happy? Jeff

Got the exhaust mounted up. It is off a sport bike...I think it will make it much racier than Kinarfi's with that old Harley Pipe....hahahahaha

Thanks Steve, I am excited to get it out. Taking it out to Miller motorsports park here to cruise around during the world superbike races this weekend. Will be a nice place to just cruise around and see if any issues arise right off the bat. Expecting all to be fine and hope to take it out actually "off road" in the next couple weeks to see how it does. Still need to get to the front diff rebuild but that can be done over the next few weeks as I have time. Kinarfi can expect me down at his place soon for that one.... !!! Jeff

From what I have seen/heard/read about fram they are the cheapest and worst filters out there in general just the way they are made. I have seen and read that the NAPA filters are good as are the WIX filters. There are lots of videos and discussions about filters in general out there and every one I have seen have been very unflattering for fram. Jeff

Welcome and I echo the thanks for your service. And by the way, thanks as I am not the new guy anymore . The guys here are great and have been very helpful. Kinarfi helped me with my rear diff work (Lenny's kit) down at his shop here in Utah and I have fixed the front ball joint bolts as well as the air cleaner (though still not snorkel'd yet). Now am ready to take it out if it would just stop snowing and melt so I can get out around here.

Thanks for the ideas. I think I will look on KSL (thats the local paper) website and see what people have for sale. Bet I could pick up a used sportbike or harley muffler pretty cheap that would work. Lenny and Kinarfi...how do the Harley pipes sound? They look pretty low profile and seem to tuck up out of the way pretty easily. And Kinarfi...thanks for working on those ball joints. Will grab them from you the next time I am down. Hoping to work on things some more tomorrow and/or sunday here. Jeff

What is everyone using for mufflers/exhaust. Did you use motorcycle or car mufflers and did you just do it at home with clamps or welding? How did you support it? Any pictures would be helpful. Thanks. Jeff

I want to formally thank Kinarfi for going way above and beyond in helping me with my rear differential kit last Sunday. Spent the whole dang day with me and man was I greatful! Would have taken me a year to get everything right and that's if I could have figured it out at all. Good thing we did it too. At only 320 miles, the ring gear bolts were already just a smidge above hand tight and already showing quite a bit of wear where the threads had been worn down. I feel much more confident in it now....Thanks Lenny and Kinarfi! I have lots more things to do (including front diff and ball joints) but most of them are tinkering. Looking forward to get out and start playing with the machine if it would ever stop raining/snowing here...grrrr. I am also looking into coverting the back deck to kids seat very similar to what 2scoops has done (see earlier post by him in this topic). Thanks to everyone for the support so far and look forward to lots more future questions. Jeff

I haven't even gotten mine out on the trail yet. Thanks to you guys I know some of the things I need to address first to remain safe and prolong the parts on my Joyner. But I am excited and nothing written about has really scared me away from them. As stated before everything has its issues. I'd rather have one with support from guys like on the website here with the potential that the joyner has. I also love the price point and like the added size as I am 6'2" and fit with plenty of room in my trooper.

Nevermind. Found the ball joint topic after I posted. By the way....I hate drilling and tapping...it never seems to work very well for me. I think "straight" is a relative term as far as drilling and tapping go and mine is always cock-eyed at best Anyone with suggestions on good grease to use for the suspension (ball joints/pivot points, etc.)?

When people were listing problems with the ball joint coming out, I assume they are talking the single bolt the holds that clamp on the one side of the ball joint? If so, someone mentioned putting a bigger bolt there? Does this mean a longer bolt or are people drilling and tapping for larger diameter bolt? Mine is painted on and is tight!

So am planning on going over my trooper before I take it out and beat it up. I have seen the things to fix page and will check/replace the things like the ball joints and steering coupler bolts. Will get to the diff upgrades as soon as I can. I have changed the oil (good thing as there was a lot of condensation in there so it looked like coffe with creamer). Was also thinking I should lube all the pivot points for the suspension. Anything else you guys would recommend right off the bat? Also wondering what you all are using for lubes for the suspension and gear oils, motor oils, etc that have worked well. Also, how in the heck did you all see the numbers on the bolts of the diffs? I can just barely see the edge of the bolts (not even the flat top of the heads! Any suggestions on how to see if the upgrade has already been done short of taking it out (though doubt it has been done). Thanks for any advice! Jeff

you know what they say, "if mama ain't happy....the trooper is in the garage"

Pics as requested...

It is the deluxe UTV cover. I got the grey as the cammo version was $40 more and i don't need to be that sneaky It was $109. They have a regular UTV cover for around $50 also but since mine is outside wanted the best I could get for the money. If you look on their website and go to ATV covers you will see it there with the rest. Despite the dimensions listed, it covers everything but the wheels very well. Still have to do some tweaking on how it fits (want to try puttting the front in the back as I think it might fit easier that way) but it is so heavy it takes a bit of struggling to get it on. I just wanted to make sure it was going to fit. Trooper is still in the garage for now, but probably have to go outside this weekend Jeff

Got the cabellas cover last night. Not quite like a glove, but with a $100 gift certificate I had ended up costing me $10. Works well enough and looks very durable so think it should be just fine until I can afford an enclosed trailer for it. Thanks for the idea! Jeff