Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

OK, here's the mystery of the day. I was using the UTV the other day and the idiot light came on that said it was overheating. I immediately shut down and checked the coolant. No coolant! I refilled the overflow reservoir and the radiator and all was fine. 2 days later the light is on again. I rechecked the radiator and it was again empty? Bone dry? Now, here's the weird part, There is no coolant anywhere on the floor below the vehicle. I can't even see any on the frame. I have it up on the lift and am getting ready to start tearing into the bottom "skid plate" to see if the leak is in the hoses there. Any suggestions as to where to start? I have yet to begin and I am already baffled!

Posted

Before you tear it apart...they have history of trapping air in the lines. I would go ahead and fill the radiator and run it.

There's a bleeder port on the driver side of the engine where the coolant hose goes in. Crack the little plug on the fitting to bleed the air while running. Once it's all bled fill it up to the top again.

Once you bleed the air out let us know if it's still burning coolant and we'll go from there.

  • Alex changed the title to Coleman UTV 400 Overheating
Posted

OK, I refilled the radiator and the reservoir and bled the system as suggested and that worked great! Unfortunately the idiot light came on again after 10-15 min and I think I realized then what the problem might be. The fan never did come on. Not at all. Perhaps a broken temp sensor or a bad fan? Relay? The water did circulate when I filled the radiator so the water pump must be OK

Posted

Just digging around on the machine since I haven't seen the sensor before I believe it is on the drivers side just above the coolant hose, on the rear of the radiator.

It has a rubber cover zip tied over it.

Hopefully your hands are smaller than mine 😂 it doesn't look all that fun to get to.20221206_134519.thumb.jpg.5bc68a8068a1110876cc417e76ecf752.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I got the front compartment opened up somewhat, and running 12 V to the fan showed that it ran smoothly. I could find no fuses fried but I am not exactly which one powered it. I got the thermistor out (not too bad really!). I could run the test on the thermistor but I think it might be easier to just get a new one. They are apparently delicate so I'm hoping this is the problem. BTW, for future reference, the fuse box is under the seat. The manual doesn't really say where it is, or I just missed where it did, but there is a YouTube video out there that clearly shows it under the hood by the regulator in a Hisun, but in the Coleman version it is on the driver's side to the front, under the seat. 

I will order the thermistor and hopefully can get that sometime soon. Thanks for your help. I'll get back as soon as I get the part in. Hopefully this can help someone else too.

Posted

Glad you got it apart. You can do a rough test by just making sure it's open between the two pins at room temp and closed at higher temp (which would turn the fan on) more than likely it has failed if the fan is running well.

The fuse box is under the seat on all 400s. The 550s/750s etc it's under the hood. The Hisun produced how to videos mostly cover the 550 and 250 models, and there are a few changes.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

OK, a little follow up. I ordered all the parts but none have arrived as of this time. Closer exam of the plug to the thermistor revealed heat damage and testing of the thermistor showed it to be "open" and not to close at running temp. It is fried! I fashioned a jumper wire across the plug wires on the thermistor that can be easily removed once I get the parts. 😬The fan now runs whenever the power is on and it seems to be running smoothly. It hasn't overheated yet. The coolant fill went ok but it kept getting air in the circuit. Curiously, keeping the front end of the UTV up on a jack raised the front end and made this easier to do without getting the air. I did still have to use the air bleed screw at the motor. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Same thing here.  Started over heating January 3rd, 2023. 4 screws remove inner fender for access to cooling switch then easy peasy. Greasing front u joint is another matter. 

Posted (edited)
On 12/31/2022 at 7:02 AM, Rey Ximenes said:

OK, a little follow up. I ordered all the parts but none have arrived as of this time. Closer exam of the plug to the thermistor revealed heat damage and testing of the thermistor showed it to be "open" and not to close at running temp. It is fried! I fashioned a jumper wire across the plug wires on the thermistor that can be easily removed once I get the parts. 😬The fan now runs whenever the power is on and it seems to be running smoothly. It hasn't overheated yet. The coolant fill went ok but it kept getting air in the circuit. Curiously, keeping the front end of the UTV up on a jack raised the front end and made this easier to do without getting the air. I did still have to use the air bleed screw at the motor. 

 

Edited by Dave K
Please delete this as I am new and didn't mean to copy. Just meant to reply to his comment.
Posted

I am new here on the forum so wanted to thank you all for posting this info. It is helpful as I have 2 Coleman UT400's (2020 & 2021 models) Found similar issues as you Ray. So, this is what I've found so far. The overheating/temp light is on. No leaks and isn't low on coolant. Fan is not turning on, unless I jump 12 volts to it then works fine. All fuses in fuse box under seat are working and not blown. The temp sensor located on engine seems to have an open when doing an OLM test with meter. Tested the other SXS's known good one and got an OLM reading. So, I swapped them and didn't make a change on either SXS. Back to the drawing board until now. Ill check the thermistor switch soon and get back to you on my results. In the meantime, Ray did your parts come in? and any progress or updates? Also unrelated I believe... both horns on the same vehicle don't work. Haven't got far yet on testing them but has voltage to them from switch, but not sure of ground. Figured I'd ask if anyone had any info while on here. I'll be doing more diagnosis soon and will update if anything changes. Just thought it was strange both horns are inoperable. Thanks again for your advice. 

Posted

Some of the parts came in but not all. I did get the thermistor and that is all working for now but I am not sure how long it will last. The plug got partly melted in the original overheat and it appears to be a bit fragile so we will see. I am not sure how to get another plug as I think it is listed as a wiring harness! I have never been able to actually contact anyone at Coleman so I don't know. I do know that if all else fails I can just put the jumper back on. BTW, my horn is working.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 1/25/2023 at 10:19 PM, Dave K said:

I am new here on the forum so wanted to thank you all for posting this info. It is helpful as I have 2 Coleman UT400's (2020 & 2021 models) Found similar issues as you Ray. So, this is what I've found so far. The overheating/temp light is on. No leaks and isn't low on coolant. Fan is not turning on, unless I jump 12 volts to it then works fine. All fuses in fuse box under seat are working and not blown. The temp sensor located on engine seems to have an open when doing an OLM test with meter. Tested the other SXS's known good one and got an OLM reading. So, I swapped them and didn't make a change on either SXS. Back to the drawing board until now. Ill check the thermistor switch soon and get back to you on my results. In the meantime, Ray did your parts come in? and any progress or updates? Also unrelated I believe... both horns on the same vehicle don't work. Haven't got far yet on testing them but has voltage to them from switch, but not sure of ground. Figured I'd ask if anyone had any info while on here. I'll be doing more diagnosis soon and will update if anything changes. Just thought it was strange both horns are inoperable. Thanks again for your advice. 

 

Posted
Update I finally had some time and checked into the overheating issue. Found when I removed the radiator temp switch from sensor, and went to use a jumper wire to test fan. The wires in the connector popped out and were not going in, and or staying. So bent tabs back and was able to get wires to stay in for now. The fan works as you said with key on after jumping it. Did some researching and found a harness and rad temp sensor on Amazon. So just ordered and will let you guys know how it works out. Sorry it took a while to respond. Now to the shifter linkage adjustments for popping out of gear.
 
  • 716nOAaJxOL._SY500_.jpg
Click image to open expanded view
 

Radiator, Sensor, Water, Temp, Fan Switch,UTV,400,500,700,800,Hisun,Massimo,Tsc,MSU

 
$27.00
Best price
 
 
Get 5% back ($1.35 in rewards) on the amount charged to your Amazon Prime Rewards Visa Signature Card.
 
Brand Thitherwk
Switch Type Temperature Switch
Mounting Type Wall Mount
Unit Count 1 Count
Number of Items 1
 

About this item

  • Radiator, Sensor, Water, Temp, Fan Switch,UTV,400,500,700,800,Hisun,Massimo,Tsc,Msu
  • 2 years later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Having the overheating with our UT400 Coleman.   It appears the fan isn't running at all and the overheat light comes on and I will start on testing that this weekend but went ahead and flushed the coolant and added new, but for the life of me I cannot locate any bleeder plug/screw on the driver side.   Anyone have a photo of it?

  • 5 months later...
Posted

FYI to everyone, aefron88 states that there is a bleeder value by the hose, on mine there is not.  I have been having a lot of issues with our machine.  I am finding out that Coleman used a few different engines and configurations.  So all the manual's you see my not be correct.  To bad we can't sue them for all of the issues.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I found out the oil pump drives the water pump gear and the shaft for the oil pump failed where the gears pin goes through the shaft. 
I had to remove a lot to get at the water pump cover. Ultimately I also had to undo all motor mounts and raise the motor a little.

i thought I had it back together but must be missing something. When I put the coolant in it started leaking from a nub near the water pump. If I pulled a hose off of it I can’t find from where and nothing in the parts diagrams show anything on it. 
pics attached any help would be greatly appreciated.

IMG_0785.jpeg

IMG_0784.jpeg

IMG_0783.jpeg

IMG_0782.jpeg

IMG_0781.jpeg

IMG_0780.jpeg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By AaronD1982
      Next problem with charging system to tackle, any help would be appreciated.
      New starter solenoid....check
      New Voltage Regulator...check.
      Dynamic test to Stator.....bang...pulling like 2 Volts AC
      Problem: Without pulling the part out and stranding the vehicle at the shop forever.... I am trying to find the correct stator or at least one that might not be exact for the Massimo Buck 400S, but fit and connect and do the job if that makes sense.... if anyone has any ideas, please shoot them my way.
    • By carbdoctor
      I have an 850. It’s been overheating. The electric fan is not kicking on. I see the temperature switch going into the radiator, but there’s no wire plugging in to it or none to be found in the area. i’m thinking I might’ve hooked on a branch and it ripped out the harness on that part. Does anybody have a picture or no where that plugs into on the harness? On the top of the firewall, I did notice some plugs that have nothing plugged into it. I was wondering if it’s a harness that goes from there down to the radiator that was pulled off


    • By fikey
      I am about 6 months in to owning my 520. It is used mainly to run back and forth to our barn and shop. Occasionally, I run it up and down a few fairly steep hills on the property. One day, as I was going up one of the hills, the motor started sputtering and a tremendous amount of smoke was coming out of the exhaust. I was near the top and it made it (sputtering) up. Once back on the flat, I made it home. I loaded it on the trailer and took it back to the dealer. They said they checked everything out and found no issues. Over the next month or so, I only had occasion to go up hills once or twice with no issue. Then one day, again as I was going up a hill, the engine sputtered, giant plume of white smoke and then the engine died. 30 seconds later, started up and made it to the top. Repeated the route (down and up) and the same thing happened again. Called the dealer and their head of service said he would come out and wanted to see it first hand. He came out a few days later and repeated the route several time and it never happened with him in it. I had videoed the whole thing on one of the times it happened to me, but since it happens intermittently, could not produce it when he was here. I told him that I had checked the temperature, the oil level and the antifreeze level after each occurrence and they were normal. I asked him to call Kubota and ask what the possibilities were and that I am not fond of it dying on the hill and blowing the smoke and I didn't want to wait until something catastrophic happened to figure it out. When I followed up, they had no answers (which doesn't exactly please me). Any ideas? The attached photo was the start of the smoking. Didn't know how to upload the video of the whole thing, but it fogged the whole area.

    • By brewski
      I just purchased a 2025 kubota rtv 1100 x cab esd esnting to install light bars on the roof it appears to be prewired for lights how do lights mount and what kind of switches do i need
    • By AaronD1982
      I recently purchased a 2019 or 2020 (no manual) Massimo 400S Buck Series UTV.  It ran fine for a couple days but the low battery light was flashing while it drove.  It then died in the field one day and I was able to jump the battery and get it rolling enough to get back to the barn.  It started both times I turned the key for a couple days after and when driven died 10 minutes later in the driveway.  Even after jumping it had no juice, but with the key out of the ignition it kept trying to start, a quick look on the Google machine and it suggested starter solenoid or ignition switch was the culprit.  Fair enough, let's just order a replacement solenoid, right?  No way Jose....the pin connector on the UTV is a 2-pin white plastic connector and the part received is a 4 pin.  How do I swap that and make it work?  Can I even?  Where do I find correct parts in the future?
×
×
  • Create New...