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Lenny

Past Trooper Problem Areas

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This is a list of various problems Trooper owners have had with their machines. Not the fixes but the problem. It also includes additions and changes that have been made to make the machines more fun or easier to use along with some cautionary items and necessary survival requirments for repair or getting stranded. Once we get a good list, we can begin adding URLs to the "how to fix it" post. You can reply to this post with your input and it will be added to the list, and then, your reply will be deleted. Thanks for everybodys input.

Critical Safty Issues, It's pertinent you address these:

Front ball joints sliding out.

Top universal joint of steering shaft coming loose.

General Issues but can leave you stranded ( excluding Wiring problems ):

Air filter must be replaced with a quality K&N type oil inpregnated filter. ( dust WILL get in and ruin the engine, worse if not snorkelled)

Rear drive shaft, older style with universal joints fails, should have been replaced by dealer in 08 & 09.

Gas tank design issues, runs out of gas on downhill and the side mount brackets fatigue and brake off.

Starter not working:

Engine Temp gauge doesn't read accurately:

Differentials, both front and rear need gear alignmen, stronger big ring gear bolts and shimming:

Rear swing arm pivot tab holes elongate (shank of bolts not long enough, threads at pivot stress point):

Rear axel spindle mount tab holes elongate ( shank of bolts not long enough, threads at pivot stress point):

Engine overheats when run at higher RPMs:

4x4 selecter un-reliable, burns out or just fails to work, poor design:

Engine seems to have idle problems. Idle air controller (IAC) gets dirty or just fails ot work properly:

Wiring Problems:

Wires to O2 sensor rubbing bare on radiator due to mount method (tyrap):

New Additions And Changes People Have Made to Make their Troopers easier or more fun:

Hood hinging:

Suspension changes:

Tires, changing size or type:

Power steering (electric and hydraulic):

Storage additions:

Muffler additions:

Windsheild:

Fabric or metal top cover to provide sun shading:

Shimming the rack and pinion steering box to tighten steering and stop clunking noise (A few different fixes have been used):

Adding T-bar for passenger to hang on to:

Rear view mirrors:

Isolated problems that just a couple of people have had:

Transmission output shaft sheared:

Differential locker stripping:

Differential locker shifting fork bent preventing lockout:

Fuel gauge and sending unit going bad:

Rear wheel bearings failed:

Electric 4 wheel drive device fails ( it defaults into 4 wheel drive if removed so you can get back home):

Alternator bearing bad requiring replacement:

Gas tank filler tube weld cracking:

Shiffter roll pin shatering preventing some gears from being available:

Precautionary Notes:

Welding, never weld on Trooper without unpluging the ECM ( computer ):

Items That Should Always Be Included On Long Rides:

Jack:

Lug wrench:

Spare tire:

Repair tools:

Extra gas:

If in challenging terrain, Extra line to extent winch reach:

Survival Gear That Should Be Mandatory On Long Rides:

Partner with their own vehicle:

Water and way to carry it if hiking out:

Survival food:

Communication devise if useable like cell phone or CB ):

Communications ( cell phone, radio, SPOT satellite tracker, GPS, ....)

Good walking shoes:

Jacket:

Solar Blanket ( for night time warmth, rain poncho, shade cover ):

First aid kit:

Common Rattle and Clunking Locations

Body panels (rubber washers between panel and frame helps a lot):

Aluminum plenum between fan and radiator:

Plastic panel below front of seats:

Clutch and gas pedal pivot points:

Steel panel over storage under driver seat (add cushion strip around edges):

All sheet metal and plastic panels in general (should be caulked around the edges):

The carbon can behind the passenger seat. ( add bracket to to bottom side )

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This is a list of various problems Trooper owners have had with their machines. Not the fixes but the problem. It also includes additions and changes that have been made to make the machines more fun or easier to use along with some cautionary items and necessary survival requirments for repair or getting stranded. Once we get a good list, we can begin adding URLs to the "how to fix it" post. You can reply to this post with your input and it will be added to the list, and then, your reply will be deleted. Thanks for everybodys input.

Critical Safty Issues, It's pertinent you address these:

Front ball joints sliding out.

Top universal joint of steering shaft coming loose.

General Issues but can leave you stranded ( excluding Wiring problems ):

Air filter must be replaced with a quality K&N type oil inpregnated filter. ( dust WILL get in and ruin the engine, worse if not snorkelled)

Rear drive shaft, older style with universal joints fails, should have been replaced by dealer in 08 & 09.

Gas tank design issues, runs out of gas on downhill and the side mount brackets fatigue and brake off.

Starter not working:

Engine Temp gauge doesn't read accurately:

Differentials, both front and rear need gear alignmen, stronger big ring gear bolts and shimming:

Rear swing arm pivot tab holes elongate (shank of bolts not long enough, threads at pivot stress point):

Rear axel spindle mount tab holes elongate ( shank of bolts not long enough, threads at pivot stress point):

Engine overheats when run at higher RPMs:

4x4 selecter un-reliable, burns out or just fails to work, poor design:

Engine seems to have idle problems. Idle air controller (IAC) gets dirty or just fails ot work properly:

Wiring Problems:

Wires to O2 sensor rubbing bare on radiator due to mount method (tyrap):

New Additions And Changes People Have Made to Make their Troopers easier or more fun:

Hood hinging:

Suspension changes:

Tires, changing size or type:

Power steering (electric and hydraulic):

Storage additions:

Muffler additions:

Windsheild:

Fabric or metal top cover to provide sun shading:

Shimming the rack and pinion steering box to tighten steering and stop clunking noise (A few different fixes have been used):

Adding T-bar for passenger to hang on to:

Rear view mirrors:

Isolated problems that just a couple of people have had:

Transmission output shaft sheared:

Differential locker stripping:

Differential locker shifting fork bent preventing lockout:

Fuel gauge and sending unit going bad:

Rear wheel bearings failed:

Electric 4 wheel drive device fails ( it defaults into 4 wheel drive if removed so you can get back home):

Alternator bearing bad requiring replacement:

Gas tank filler tube weld cracking:

Shiffter roll pin shatering preventing some gears from being available:

Precautionary Notes:

Welding, never weld on Trooper without unpluging the ECM ( computer ):

Items That Should Always Be Included On Long Rides:

Jack:

Lug wrench:

Spare tire:

Repair tools:

Extra gas:

If in challenging terrain, Extra line to extent winch reach:

Survival Gear That Should Be Mandatory On Long Rides:

Partner with their own vehicle:

Water and way to carry it if hiking out:

Survival food:

Communication devise if useable like cell phone or CB ):

Communications ( cell phone, radio, SPOT satellite tracker, GPS, ....)

Good walking shoes:

Jacket:

Solar Blanket ( for night time warmth, rain poncho, shade cover ):

First aid kit:

Common Rattle and Clunking Locations

Body panels (rubber washers between panel and frame helps a lot):

Aluminum plenum between fan and radiator:

Plastic panel below front of seats:

Clutch and gas pedal pivot points:

Steel panel over storage under driver seat (add cushion strip around edges):

All sheet metal and plastic panels in general (should be caulked around the edges):

The carbon can behind the passenger seat. ( add bracket to to bottom side )

Hi Lenny How are you? About all these problems that you addressed, are they for all troopers or the early ones. I have 09s just wondering if most of the problems were corrected on 09s or are they still a problem? Thank you for your time.

Stevo

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Only things unique to the early first 50 was rear Drive line U-joints, broken brace on rear diff, wrong fuse in fan & bad early design of rear fenders . The fuel tank in the early did not have any of the stalling problems but is hard to fill. I think I am about the only one on here with a first 50 Trooper.

The rest is pretty much a possibility to all but many have not had a lot of the problems. Example, I have not had any problems with front ball joints, electrical connection, starter, sensors and more.

And there have been some that have had no problems.

rocmoc n AZ

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I haven't seen any real evidance that the problems have been resolved in a manner that I would accept however as Rocmoc said there are a number of owners that haven't had any problems. A lot of the problems were as a result of poor quality control and that isn't something that requires waiting for the next model year to resolve. That makes me think that some of the issues were progressively corrected. Correcting a design problem by making a poor design under better quality control helps reliaibility but it would take longer to fix with redesign. I sujest that you look at each of the problem areas, keeping an eye on them. That way, if one does show up you will catch it before it gets more serious. Some of the issues present potentially very serious safty concerns like the front ball joints sliding out or the upper steering column u-joint sliding off. On these 2 items, I wouldn't wait for problems to show. Instead I would pull the securring bolts out and check if they are actually catching the groove of the joint stud or just clamping the stud. Larger bolts may be required. I went to 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts on my steering joints and remade the upper steering u-joint shaft clamp. Mine were working fine until one day I noticed they were ready to fall out.

Lenny

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I haven't seen any real evidance that the problems have been resolved in a manner that I would accept however as Rocmoc said there are a number of owners that haven't had any problems. A lot of the problems were as a result of poor quality control and that isn't something that requires waiting for the next model year to resolve. That makes me think that some of the issues were progressively corrected. Correcting a design problem by making a poor design under better quality control helps reliaibility but it would take longer to fix with redesign. I sujest that you look at each of the problem areas, keeping an eye on them. That way, if one does show up you will catch it before it gets more serious. Some of the issues present potentially very serious safty concerns like the front ball joints sliding out or the upper steering column u-joint sliding off. On these 2 items, I wouldn't wait for problems to show. Instead I would pull the securring bolts out and check if they are actually catching the groove of the joint stud or just clamping the stud. Larger bolts may be required. I went to 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts on my steering joints and remade the upper steering u-joint shaft clamp. Mine were working fine until one day I noticed they were ready to fall out.

Lenny

Hi Lenny thats for getting back to me on this, I try to keep up with mine. I know that late 09s the reat diffs were redone, I never knew about the front diffs having a problem, and the rear wheel bearings, which I may just change out, just because. What size are the rear wheel bearings do you know? I also think that the ball joints were fixed late 09s too but yes I will change the bolts in them and also on the steering column u-joint, just to make sure and will keep an eye on them. Again thanks for getting back to me. it was real helpful.

Thanks Stevo

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Stevozz The wheel bearing are 35x65x35 silver bullet has them on sale I bought two today . Silverbullet

24 in stock

special price

49.95 ea 928-344-2117

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Stevozz The wheel bearing are 35x65x35 silver bullet has them on sale I bought two today . Silverbullet

24 in stock

special price

49.95 ea 928-344-2117

Hi Plumber thanks for the info and Merry Christmas

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Snowman has the bearings also. Think they are pretty much the same bearing & price.

rocmoc n AZ

Hi Rocmoc, Thanks for the info, Question can you also get the same bearings at NAPA, Auto Zonw ect??? just a thought?

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Hi Rocmoc, Thanks for the info, Question can you also get the same bearings at NAPA, Auto Zonw ect??? just a thought?

I don't know. I think Lenny tried very hard to and came up with nothing before he did his mod.

rocmoc n AZ

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I don't know. I think Lenny tried very hard to and came up with nothing before he did his mod.

rocmoc n AZ

Somebody is making it. If someone were to send an inquire to all the bearing manufactures they could probably come up with it. You could probably find a list of them in Google. I did some checking but I didn't go to that level. Having a machine shop in my garage allowed me to take another route not easily available to most. I used 2 individual tapered roller bearings in each wheel. Haven't done the front yet, but this required machining things to more standard sizes. My advantage is that I can replace the bearing for $8 each should they ever go bad. So far they are staying perfectly tight. The tapered roller bearings, at least the ones I'm using can take aprox. 2-1/2 more stress then the stock bearings. I'm thinking that the roller bearings that are being offered to replace the stock bearing may be a slightly lighter bearing as a result of having to design them into one outter race. They are probably still at least twice as strong as stock which should be fine. The stock bearings does hold up for a while and by doubling the specs., they should last 4 times as long under the same conditions.

Lenny

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