Aftermarket ignition switch

[T-boss 410]

Has anyone here replaced the 3 position ignition switch with an aftermarket 3 position switch? If so, which switch did you use, and how did you wire it up?

Thanks 👍

[T-boss 410]

Nobody?

[T-boss 410]

Wow! (crickets chirping)

[T-boss 410]

Nobody has done this?

[Travis]

anything is possible when wiring a key switch.

you just need to find out which wires are provided Power when the key is in the start position, run position, and what wire kills it (most likely grounds the coil) when you turn the key off.

[T-boss 410]

Thanks for the response. I've checked the grounds wherever I could locate them, and I can't find any bad connections. I don't know what else to do. Do you know of any way to troubleshoot the ignition switch?

[Travis]

oh, you're having issues with the switch?

What are the symptoms.

[T-boss 410]

Well, I have to hit the starter at least a few times to get the engine to turn over and start. The battery is new, and it's a 340cca battery. It doesn't seem like it's supplying the starter with enough juice to turn the engine over. I've already replaced the starter solenoid. I've been researching it, and a few members here have had ignition switch issues. Poor soldering inside the switch is a definite problem with some. I'm trying to go through the starting system and eliminate each part until I can locate the problem. That's why I was looking for a method to test an ignition switch.

[Travis]

Hmm, that sounds like an issue i was having  

if you have a test light or can get a test light, i would plug it in to the signal wire at the starter solenoid, and see if you get power to it everytime you turn the key.

[T-boss 410]

Thanks. Can a multimeter be used? There seems to be power getting to the starter solenoid, but it doesn't seem like enough power to turn the engine over. Hitting it a few times gets it to turn over.

How did you get the issue fixed?

[Travis]

On 3/26/2023 at 10:20 AM, T-boss 410 said:

Thanks. Can a multimeter be used? There seems to be power getting to the starter solenoid, but it doesn't seem like enough power to turn the engine over. Hitting it a few times gets it to turn over.

How did you get the issue fixed?

thats when i installed that John Deere starter improvement rely.

not sure what type of starter that your machine uses.

a multimeter could be used, but i prefer a test light in the case of finding load drops. You may have enough voltage, but if there isn't sufficient amps to do the work, nada,.

but generally there will be a drop in volts along with amperage.

[T-boss 410]

If I may ask, what is a John Deere starter improvement relay?

[Travis]

 

[T-boss 410]

Thanks for the video. This helped your starting issue?

[Travis]

yes, cured for over a year now, if i remember right.

thats why i suggested using a  test light so you can see if the bulb dims any due to amperage or voltage drop...

[T-boss 410]

Seems like a very inexpensive addition. Wouldn't hurt to try it, I guess. I watched the video, and did a search for other posts. It comes in a kit w/LED relay, but I can install it for way less than what they are asking. Shoot, one site wanted $68.18. Ridiculous!

[Travis]

this is what i used

https://www.amazon.com/HD-Switch-AM107421-Improvement-Kawasaki/dp/B0B8W8M3W6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GGEDB2XDZGW8&keywords=HD+switch+starter+improvement+relay&qid=1680140910&sprefix=hd+switch+starter+improvement+relay%2Caps%2C502&sr=8-3

[T-boss 410]

Thank you, sir. I may just have to add one to my mower, too.

Should there be an inline fuse, too?

[Travis]

18 hours ago, T-boss 410 said:

Thank you, sir. I may just have to add one to my mower, too.

Should there be an inline fuse, too?

i don't see a need for one.

[T-boss 410]

Very well, thanks!

[k-bo]

My bad ignition switch had a sweet spot that if you didn't hold it exactly right, the vehicle wouldn't crank. I believe the intermittent connection caused the starter to burn out and probably led to the current existing issue of not starting at all, yet to be resolved. There may be more on that soon, however. I will post an update when it does. So, it's probably a good idea to change out a bad ignition switch.

k-bo

 

[T-boss 410]

Thanks for the response. I don't mind changing out the ignition switch, but I don't want to replace it with another bad one. I don't know if it's a manufacturing flaw that will be present in every switch, which is why I wanted to install an aftermarket switch that I knew was good. I've located a source for an OEM switch, but I'm hesitant to buy what might be the same issue.

[Travis]

 

[T-boss 410]

Thank you, sir. I have already downloaded it.

I wish it would give some details on how to remove the ignition switch. It talks about removing the switch for testing purposes, but it doesn't advise if there's any special tools to be used. For instance, the bezel that surrounds the switch has 4 holes in the outer edge. Does this require a spanner wrench of some sort to remove it? I just don't want to damage anything more than is needed, especially since parts are becoming more difficult to locate, which I blame on the supply chain issues.

[k-bo]

Loosen the whole dash panel. There are quite a few screws and some on the corners are hidden. Undo all of the center panel screws and open it up enough to get a hand behind the ignition switch. The wires are soldered to it, so work on getting the switch off of the panel first. I can't remember what it took to get the switch off of the panel, but it wasn't hard. Once you can hold the switch in your hand, you can cut the wires. Make sure you have disconnected the battery beforehand! Using the wiring diagram, you'll notice that 2 of the wires are for the starter function. When you buy an off the shelf ignition switch, make sure it fits in the existing hole to avoid cutting the dash. You will probably also have to put ring connectors on the wires to attach them to the switch. After I had done all of that work and because I had an unused push button switch laying around, I added a hole in the dash above the existing switch hole to install a push button starter. Make good connections and all that's left to contend with is the switch quality. Don't buy the cheapest crap hanging on the rack! Go for it! Good luck!

k-bo

[T-boss 410]

Thank you, sir. My real concern is replacing the switch with another OEM switch. I don't know if the problem is just normal wear and tear, or a design flaw that hasn't been addressed by the factory.

So is the bezel on the switch part of what holds the switch to the panel?

[k-bo]

I think that's right, but don't get me lying! You will have to solder a new OEM switch in and that could be a bit challenging, but certainly doable.

k-bo

[T-boss 410]

Why would I have to solder in an OEM switch? I shouldn't have to cut any wiring. There should be a plug on the harness attached to the switch. At least the pictures I have seen of the OEM has a length of wiring with a yellow plug at the end. 

Are we talking about the same thing? Now I'm confused 🤔

[k-bo]

The OEM ignition switch may well come with wire and a harness plug on the end, but if you go to something different, you will have to cut those wires at the back of the switch. I don't recall seeing the plug and how accessible it was.

k-bo

[T-boss 410]

Oh OK. I gotcha now. I'm just curious if there's a reliable switch to be had out there,