John Deere Utility Vehicle M-Gator Technical Manual
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By Greg Kilgore
I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter.
1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter.
And an electric temp gauge.
Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow.
I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black.
Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.)
Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door.
The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it.
The voltage gauge
.
Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.
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By Greg Kilgore
I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter.
1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter.
And an electric temp gauge.
Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow.
I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black.
Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.)
Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door.
The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it.
The voltage gauge
.
Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.
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By Spencer Marks
Hello all,
I just finished replacing my front and rear drive shafts. I drained and put new dif fluid in the rear dif. I went to the local dealer and they told me the fill capacity of the front and the transmission as I want to replcae that as well but they could not tell me how to access the fill. One how do I access the fill for front dif and 2 is the transmission fill the same as the rear dif? I don't see a dip stick or fill for the transmission but all in same area.
Also, anyone can suggest a good shop/service manual for this bike?
Thanks
Spencer
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By NicholasNWM09
Hello Everyone,
COOL NEW Product Alert!
A company called NEW Wire Marine or NEW Wire has Badass custom panels for UTV, Buggy/Hunting trucks. From Fully wired switch panels with laser etched rockers with backlights in 5 different colors, to just parts like voltmeters, phone, USB and 12 v chargers. Rockers can be printed, or custom laser etched rockers and they even have sleek labeled pushbuttons. They are a first-class company with a great knowledgeable staff and outstanding customer service. Switches are based on 12v or 24v circuits and they also have marine grade wire and connectors, which is perfect for waterproofing your system!
Go check them out!
Check out the websites : https://newwiremarine.com/ and https://rockerswitchpros.com
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