Quantcast
Jump to content

Zorro

Bogging down in 2nd

Recommended Posts

My 1100 Trooper runs great but when I get on it in 2nd gear it seems to be bogging down and sputters like a rev limiter is kicking in to soon. 3rd, 4th and 5th gears runs out great with no issues. Any ideas wnat would cause this in 2nd gear?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 1100 Trooper runs great but when I get on it in 2nd gear it seems to be bogging down and sputters like a rev limiter is kicking in to soon. 3rd, 4th and 5th gears runs out great with no issues. Any ideas wnat would cause this in 2nd gear?

If your up above 6000 RPMs or so you probably will hit the rev limiter . I used to all the time on mine until I went to bigger tires and did some other things which completely changer how the engine runs. The stock Trooper would hit it's sweet spot at around 4300 RPMs and in second it would rev to over 6000 quickly.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your up above 6000 RPMs or so you probably will hit the rev limiter . I used to all the time on mine until I went to bigger tires and did some other things which completely changer how the engine runs. The stock Trooper would hit it's sweet spot at around 4300 RPMs and in second it would rev to over 6000 quickly.

Lenny

I experience something similar in third gear around 3000 rpm and then after a short while it kicks in again around 4200.

Barry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your up above 6000 RPMs or so you probably will hit the rev limiter . I used to all the time on mine until I went to bigger tires and did some other things which completely changer how the engine runs. The stock Trooper would hit it's sweet spot at around 4300 RPMs and in second it would rev to over 6000 quickly.

Lenny

Hey Lenny, yeah it does it as it gets close to 6000rpm and that comes really fast. Im running 15" wheels with 29 inch street tires right now. Do you have any suggestions for changing anything up.

Also have a few more dumb questions as I do not have a manuel to study, Do I need to service the carcoal canister fi so how?

Oli preasure gauge does not work on the dash, would that normally be the gauge or sending unit? Is the sending unit what I see

just above the oil filter to the right with the wires connceting to it?

What is the gauge for on the drivers side by the radiator I am guessing it is a fuel preasure gauge? it registers on 6 when at an idel, is that normal? Also it looks like there is supose to be a small vacume hose attached to it that is pointing towards the back?

Thanks for your help

Greg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Lenny, yeah it does it as it gets close to 6000rpm and that comes really fast. Im running 15" wheels with 29 inch street tires right now. Do you have any suggestions for changing anything up.

Also have a few more dumb questions as I do not have a manuel to study, Do I need to service the carcoal canister fi so how?

Oli preasure gauge does not work on the dash, would that normally be the gauge or sending unit? Is the sending unit what I see

just above the oil filter to the right with the wires connceting to it?

What is the gauge for on the drivers side by the radiator I am guessing it is a fuel preasure gauge? it registers on 6 when at an idel, is that normal? Also it looks like there is supose to be a small vacume hose attached to it that is pointing towards the back?

Yep, fuel pressure gauge, and that 6 is 60 psi.

Thanks for your help

Greg

Here is something else about the fuel pressure gauge, It is NOT sealed and will fill up with dirt and water, it will dry out, but it looks like crap. I gently tapped the ring off and cleaned every thing up, washed the dirt out with water and blew it dry with my air compressor and then sealed the glass to the ring and siliconed the bottom and wrapped tape around ring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Lenny, yeah it does it as it gets close to 6000rpm and that comes really fast. Im running 15" wheels with 29 inch street tires right now. Do you have any suggestions for changing anything up.

Also have a few more dumb questions as I do not have a manuel to study, Do I need to service the carcoal canister fi so how? Oli preasure gauge does not work on the dash, would that normally be the gauge or sending unit? Is the sending unit what I see. just above the oil filter to the right with the wires connceting to it?

What is the gauge for on the drivers side by the radiator I am guessing it is a fuel preasure gauge? it registers on 6 when at an idel, is that normal? Also it looks like there is supose to be a small vacume hose attached to it that is pointing towards the back?

Thanks for your help

Greg

Tires:

29" should be OK. A few of us run larger, 30-31" but I'm not sure there is an advantage on bigger unless in the sand maybe. I just like the look of a big tire

Canister:

I don't think so but I really don't know on that one. There is a valve on the rear of the fuel rail (where injectors are) that goes to the canister. This valve can go bab but I havn't done mine so I don't know how to check it but it will ba in the book.

Oil pressure:

It could be either. You want to get it working so you don't end up running with out oil pressure. Yours is an electric pressure sensor and gauge. You can unscrew the sensor and replace it with mechanical sensor that runs a pressure line to the gauge. Check with your auto parts dealer.

Hope this helps

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Turned out the gauge was shot and not a single original one could be be found. I debated on just going with a manual unit but I had a few concerns fearing the heat from the headers might melt the plastic tubing and or something would catch on the tubing

with the kind of trail riding we do. Anyway I bought a new gauge and sending unit from the local parts store then I ran into a new problem, the bezel on the original is much wider than the new one, so the new one just fell throught the hole in the dash. I did not

have a way to make a back plate that wouldnt look like crape so I traveled to every auto parts store I could find and they all had the same thing. I finally went to a marine store and they had one that fit perfect, which was probably the best way to go for being exposed to the elements. I was excited to see 60 psi when I fired it up concidering it did not work when I bought it.

Thanks for all your help :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Turned out the gauge was shot and not a single original one could be be found. I debated on just going with a manual unit but I had a few concerns fearing the heat from the headers might melt the plastic tubing and or something would catch on the tubing

with the kind of trail riding we do. Anyway I bought a new gauge and sending unit from the local parts store then I ran into a new problem, the bezel on the original is much wider than the new one, so the new one just fell throught the hole in the dash. I did not

have a way to make a back plate that wouldn't look like crape so I traveled to every auto parts store I could find and they all had the same thing. I finally went to a marine store and they had one that fit perfect, which was probably the best way to go for being exposed to the elements. I was excited to see 60 psi when I fired it up concidering it did not work when I bought it.

Thanks for all your help :)

Good job, can you supply some part numbers and where you got your stuff, maybe even a photo of the new gauge & adapter.

One thing I have found that work well for adapting is 2 pieces of 1/8" lexan, left over from my airplane crash, paint it black on the back side and it's nice & shiny. If you have an aversion to poking holes in you dash for new switches, indicator lights & such, that little hole above the steering wheel works well for temporary things. use 2 pieces of flexible plastic and a bolt or something the hold them together.

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good job, can you supply some part numbers and where you got your stuff, maybe even a photo of the new gauge & adapter.

One thing I have found that work well for adapting is 2 pieces of 1/8" lexan, left over from my airplane crash, paint it black on the back side and it's nice & shiny. If you have an aversion to poking holes in you dash for new switches, indicator lights & such, that little hole above the steering wheel works well for temporary things. use 2 pieces of flexible plastic and a bolt or something the hold them together.

Kinarfi

Eventually, I'm going to replace the flat part of the dash where the gauges are with a piece of aluminum. The plastic lense in my tach and speedo gauges are loosing their transparancy and will need to be replaced anyway. I want to re-arrange the gauges and find ones that I can see better in poor light and night time. At 65, I'm lucky to even see the dash at all. Currently in my case, I cut holes at will.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good job, can you supply some part numbers and where you got your stuff, maybe even a photo of the new gauge & adapter.

One thing I have found that work well for adapting is 2 pieces of 1/8" lexan, left over from my airplane crash, paint it black on the back side and it's nice & shiny. If you have an aversion to poking holes in you dash for new switches, indicator lights & such, that little hole above the steering wheel works well for temporary things. use 2 pieces of flexible plastic and a bolt or something the hold them together.

Kinarfi

I found these at a Local Marine Suppy store

Sending Unit -- TeleFlex Morse Part # IA15001 0-80 psi, 240-33 ohm

Gauge -- TeleFlex Morse Part # 57903P 0-80 psi, 240-33 ohm

Manufactured by Veethree Elec. & Marine LLC

The gauge looks great and has a bright light, easy to see and read at night.

You can't mix match these, you have to replace both keeping the (240-33ohm) or you will not get a correct reading.

Unlike the combos sold at the auto parts store, these two are sold seperatly and togeather cost aprox $80.00 UGH, Oh well it fits perfect, works and looks great! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found these at a Local Marine Suppy store

Sending Unit -- TeleFlex Morse Part # IA15001 0-80 psi, 240-33 ohm

Gauge -- TeleFlex Morse Part # 57903P 0-80 psi, 240-33 ohm

Manufactured by Veethree Elec. & Marine LLC

The gauge looks great and has a bright light, easy to see and read at night.

You can't mix match these, you have to replace both keeping the (240-33ohm) or you will not get a correct reading.

Unlike the combos sold at the auto parts store, these two are sold seperatly and togeather cost aprox $80.00 UGH, Oh well it fits perfect, works and looks great! :)

I have been following this because mine is messing up, but to clarify, this dropped in the existing holes with no modification, Correct?

You can expect to see this in Parts & pieces, so any information is appreciated.

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been following this because mine is messing up, but to clarify, this dropped in the existing holes with no modification, Correct?

You can expect to see this in Parts & pieces, so any information is appreciated.

Kinarfi

Thats correct, I spend a whole day running all over the Dallas area going to every different auto part and performance stores I could find. With every single one I found the bezel was just barely larger than the two" body so the guage would just fall through the cut out in the dash. This one I fould at the marine store had the same bezel width as the original gauge and fit perfectly in the dash. It was worth all my time tracking this down because I did not want to cut a new hole in my dash and I am not talented enought to make a back plate that would have suported the gauge and still look nice.

My cut out seemed a little hogged out, others may have a cleaner cut out where a regular gauge will fit. I like the idea that this is desighed for marine use so it should hold up to the weather and powerwashing as aposed to one made for the interior or a car.

I will take a pic of it and try to get it on here today. Nice to know I can contribute something here :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • 2009 Joyner trooper starting problems

      I have a no cranking issue with my joyner. It has a chery 1100. It will click but nothing after that.  New battery. I tried banging in the starter while holding key in start(old car trick). Now the  starter solenoid won't even clunk. Just hear s click fron the relay now.  My assumption is the starter needs replacing.  Any ideas of other things to check? Does anyone have diese block diagrams?  Got no clue what fuse or relay goes to what

      By Whisper Snowbird, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

      • 10 replies
      • 88 views
    • Trooper 1100 Turbo Kit?

      Hey guys, so i have built my own turbo kit in house and it works awesome! seeing these turbo kits for sale for 3 and 4k seemed a little steep for me.. i built my entire kit intercooled and all for less then half of that price so i am considering selling these kits.. if i could produce a complete bolt on kit that could be installed with simple hand tools in your garage strait for $1800 and intercooled for $2500 would any of you be inerested? i would like to post pics but not sure how to? i have also snorkled my trooper and not just the air filter but diff vents, the two chrome catch cans (crankcase vent and radiator vent) along with raising the ECM and fuse boxes to head level.. this as well could be sold as a kitfor very little cost. i can also do the work in-house if needed (install all of this for you) for only a couple of hundred... is this stuff you guys would be interested in? Turbo kits will be complete al the way down to an Autometer Vac/Boost guage, fuel controller etc.... i have seen a HUGE increse in power! if you have more questions you can call me at 713-824-8891 i'm in the Houston Texas area. Also Lenny would you mind calling me so i could pic your brain for a min? some questions about this site (how to post pics, stetting up my profile etc.) as well as a few other things. Thanks i love this forum and really look foward to helping in the future! and really like seeing extreme joyners on the trail!

      By goindeep, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

      • 16 replies
      • 6,190 views
    • Trooper computer programmer

      There is a company I ran across at the CES trade show this year. They make a programmer that should be able to program the Troopers computer. About $300. The Trooper s computer is a standard Bosch car computer. The only differance is that it is programed for the Trooper. The programmer will program most any car or truck so it should work. The company could probably help is finding which program the computer uses and assist finding out which computer pins to hook to. This programmer will program all aspects of the tuning including things like Pulse width tables, VE tables, Timing tables, prime pulse width, crank pulse width, after start pulse width, warmup pulse width, enrichment pulse widths, acceleration pulse widths. rev limit and more. The site: http://www.sctflash.com/ Their forum: http://www.sctflash.com/forum/ Lenny

      By Lenny, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

      • 21 replies
      • 6,882 views
    • Wanted: Trooper Axle Parts

      I am interested in any old trooper axle parts you may have lying around. Please let me know if your want to sell them.  Backstory: Hey everyone. Last trip out to moab I climbed a wall on poison spyder Mesa while 2 rzr xp1000's and three can am x3 xrc's watched me and didn't dare try. After doing it once I pulled around to show them it wasn't a fluke. One on the can am x3 xrc drivers just looked at me and said "that's steep". On the second try I spread the bell on the left rear axle. I made the climb but now the inner cage slips inside making a loud popping noise as twisting the boot. I mainly just need the inner bell but I am interested in anything you have. 

      By 2scoops, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

      • 0 replies
      • 119 views
    • Joyner trooper electric power steering for $200..

      I made my own electric power steering for my Joyner trooper..I bought a steering column out of a 02 satern vue for $80 at a junk yard..then bought a wiring kit off of eBay for another $80. And made the steering arm...the wiring kit even came with a adjustable nob..

      By Tobie1987, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

      • 23 replies
      • 1,774 views
×