Just wondering if mine is the only one that’s seems very loud while driving. It just seems louder that other brands I’m use to. I guess you get what you pay for I’m assuming.
By Scott Meszaros
Question for the group....i have a 2015 Mule 610..........been pretty reliable....250 hours on meter.....this past weekend, i was plowing snow..........yes, extremely cold, but i noticed that Mule ran fine when running around the neighborhood, but when i went to plow, especially when the snow was heavy, when i would come to the end of a "push", the thing would stall out......started right back up with no issues......ran ok otherwise.................doesn't miss, doesn't backfire, idles fine otherwise.....any thoughts? thanks
So I'm out a deer camp and ran the sxs for 2 days. The next morning, fired it up and headed out. Made it about 50 yds then bogged down and died. Restarted twice and only moved a few feet then would not restart. Took the truck out for the day to hunt and when I got back I could hear the fuel pump kick on when the key was turned but it would still not start. Added stabilizer to the fuel and put the trickle charger on it and tried again the next day, still the same - pump coming on and turning over but no start. Other than spark plug, air filter or injector clog any ideas? Out in the middle of nowhere so limited on resources.
I ordered remote control hardware from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P2G4T22?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details and initially installed module behind the switch panel and wired it into the winch control switch. After researching the 2014 HiSun service manual posted by another forum member, I discovered a better way to implement (fyi-this is not documented any Coleman service manual that I could find) My UTV is a 2022 model, but the wiring appeared to be the same for my model.
There was an unconnected Molex plug hanging under hood on the driver side (Molex#33471-3301), (see photo). I purchased a Molex 3 wire connector ((Molex#216283-1032) directly from Molex for $5.82 including tax & shipping. This connector has the 3 wire pigtail to easily splice to the remote control module wiring. https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/cable_assemblies/2162831032 .
I added a ground stud near the parking brake mechanism in order to connect the black wire from the module see photo) . I added velcro to the module and then secured with zip ties to the back of the nameplate bracket (see photo).
See the wiring diagram for hook-up that I used. The loose blue wire is the antenna so it is not connected to anything.
1 1/2 years ago I was riding along in my 2018 Coleman 550 Outfitter when the CVT belt broken. Just prior to that I was having some shifting issues that I now understand can be part of the clutch. Finally a few months ago I sent it in to a shop who put in a new belt as well as a new wet clutch (drum, one way bearing, etc and an oil change) He fired it up and it turned on fine, sounded fine and I took it home. It was an auto shop but not a UTV specific shop. So get it home and after a half hour or so it started making some noises with my 10 year old driving it around. I get home and he said theres noises again and I played around a bit. Within a short bit of trying to drive it around I started having noises that I now understand was my One Way Bearing being destroyed. Aka metal noises from the bearing falling apart. Of course, after the cost of $800 to take it to a shop plus $200 in gas, trailer rental etc to take it in and back (it was a friends shop that was a bit of ad istance) I was quite ticked and pushed the UTV back into my garage and left it for a while. Then this past weekend i watched a bunch of Youtube videos along with a mechanic friend to pull things apart. We found the spindle was loose, opened it up further and found the one way bearing fell apart in my hand and the little bearings were already worn, no longer round and this was from less than a hour of use. THerefore leading me to believe it had very quick failure after the new wet clutch was put in. We looked things to look for damage further. Nothing really scratched/grooves etc so I ordered a new OEM bearing and we put it in, sealed it back up, followed the specs of everything and was 110% sure we put the One Way Bearing in correctly. We rode it around for a hour, sounded fine. Next day used it, sounded fine for a half hour. Third day I turned it on and let it idle a little bit and found that I was hearing metal scraping again like I did right after getting my utv back from the shop. Therefore I am 99% certain the One Way Bearing is about to break again (already breaking) Its a brand new OEM belt. Nothing looks off on the spindle. I do not know for sure if the shop touched the inner race for which, in my understanding, the One Way Bearing spins. I know I may be sounding ignorant here. I am not a mechanic by any means but I have learned a bit with the recent Youtube videos and attempted repairs. Whatever that "ufo" looking object is, we replaced the bearings (those black things that spin) I replaced the whole "Ufo" lol... as the original had some wear/tear that prevented it from spinning perfect. Nothing currently
visibly looks off... and the issue is mostly when the machine is more in an idle. It was at an idle when the One Way Bearing sorta went kaput the last time. THe noises is at an idle... but if I can get it drive, its fine. It also affects the ability to shift the gears.
I know I will have to replace the One Way Bearing again... I just dont know what might cause the issue that is destroying the bearinga nd so quickly. Again, this all started when the belt snapped when I was going about 15 mph down a road on a warm day. It has higher miles. The wet clutch was in bad shape and its replaced. The paperwork says "wet clutch assembly kit") Is there something that the belt can do to cause damage that might not be as visible but would directly create an issue that lets the bearing get ate right up?? Help me! I hate this machine and I really want it to run well ... so I can sell it and find something else haha..