I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans. The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost hidden by the throttle body and idle control system - I have unplugged it, sprayed it with contact cleaner, checked the pins, tried to get a resistance reading across the sensor, reconnected it and still get a blinking red light on the display panel warning of high temperature - this occurs even when the buggy is still cold having just started it in the morning - I have not been able to trace out the other end of the cable on the display panel since it appears i will have to remove the entire front plastic to get to it - hoping i could confirm the resistance before i go to that step (this is the same buggy originally posted by Jim Magnuson last September when the spark arrestor overheated and burned the plastic pickup bed - I fixed that by removing and cleaning the spark arrestor and it has never glowed red again. I would really like to put a guage in place of the digital idiot light since (from experience in automobiles) by the time the idiot light goes on you have already damaged the engine - Which brings the second question - would it be advisable to swap the front radiator sensor for a real sensor and then jumper the fans to always on condition at the connector so the computer contentedly thinks everything is working and it is doing its job ?
By Jimmy Bellagio
I have a 2009 Trooper 2 that sat in garage in Vegas for 2 years and fuel wen bad. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and drained and put new fuel with stabil. So here is where it gets good I am getting fuel to the pump, pump is making noise like it’s working but no fuel will come out. Anyone else have this problem? The only thing I can think of is that I had to put the old outlet on the new pump, I cleaned and blew it out best I could. I can’t use the one from the new pump due to it being threaded. Any good suggestions? I checked fuse and relay, I even hot wired the pump.
Dipstick shows pale color, dont think its water, smells like fuel, oil changed one week ago, level is very high.
First I thought it was water condensed into the oil...but someone pointed out the smell, and it doesn't look white-milky. And a half qt or so in one week?
So is it possible to get fuel leaking into the oil?
We have been having all kinds of fuel issues with this ranger. When you try to start it when it is cold outside, it does not want to start. It will crank over fine but doesn't start but if you stop and come back 10 minutes later or so, it will start up. But even then, it is idling real bad. Usually will die a few times before you can get going, really have to feather the gas pedal to keep it alive. Once it gets warmed up, it does start better but something still not right. Even when it is warm outside, it will start up but just doesn't idle right.
I bought a fuel pump kit, not the whole assembly, just the pump and replaced that and the same thing happens. I am in the process of trying to check the fuel pressure on it but the fuel pressure gauge I got from our local auto parts store seems to be defective. Had it hooked up and can't get the gauge to show any pressure at all yet it will still start up. If it does have the correct pressure, what would be the next place to start looking at? If it doesn't have correct pressure, is there something else on the assembly that would cause low pressure? We checked the voltage on the connecter and one gets 12 volts for just a few seconds and the other one gets 4.9 volts. The other 2 show nothing. I am guessing the one with 4.9 volts is for the fuel gauge sender and the one that has 12 volts is the pump. When you take the fuel line off on the engine side and turn the key on, how far should it throw fuel out?
We have taken it to 2 shops and neither one was able to do anything with it, one said there was nothing wrong. Not sure if they really did any checking or what or they just don't know what to do with it.
Would the whole fuel pump assembly out of a ranger 570 work with the ranger 800? Would I be able to swap them without any issues? To buy a whole new assembly, it's around $400, don't really want to spend that much not knowing if it will fix it or not.