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By dennardo
I recently bought a used Kubota RTV900 with a plow attachment to take care of a long, steep driveway this winter. I think it’s a 2006 and it has about 460 hours on it. The previous owner told me when I bought it that it needed an oil change but I know nothing else about how well it was maintained over the years. While going through the items in the maintenance schedule I discovered a problem with the coolant system. The coolant reserve tank was completely empty so I filled it and soon after noticed a spot of antifreeze on my garage floor. I had never noticed a leak before. I took the protective panel under the radiator off the bottom of the RTV and could see that the radiator itself, the drain valve, and all hoses and connections were dry and tight as far as the hose going into the engine block. I then took off the next protective panel that is right under the forward part of the engine. The engine-facing side of this plate was covered with a mess of oily debris that had to be scraped off and the engine itself was pretty dirty also. I cleaned things up with some paper towels and ran the engine to see if I could spot any leaks. After running the engine for only a few minutes, I saw a drop of coolant on the side of the crankcase right behind the starter motor. I wiped it dry, started the engine again, and the drop re-appeared after a few minutes. I was expecting to find that maybe the water pump was leaking, but I don’t see how that would cause the coolant to appear so far back on the side of the engine block. I can’t see anything else that might spray coolant onto this area. If the cylinder block actually has a hole in it I would expect I would see a lot more problems than just a slow leak of coolant. I am fairly handy but as I’m sure you can tell I’m new to engine work so I thought I’d see if anyone could help me diagnose this problem. Thanks.
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By Joel Neubecker
I just bought a 2008 Prowler 650 H1. Rode it about 20 miles and the belt absolutely exploded! Long story short, while replacing the belt, I spread the secondary with the cover bolt and didn't take it out before I put the secondary back on. I tried to remove the bolt after I tightened the nut and it snapped off still stuck in the spreader hole. I have no idea what to do. Any help or suggestions would help greatly. Thanks.
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By Mikey
1. What does the pressure switch (see pic) with one wire going to it do? I don't see an oil pressure idiot light so it must supply ground when seeing no oil pressure to either the fuel pump or the ignition. Does anyone know which system it interrupts? My fuel pump is bad so I am converting to a vacuum fuel pump but don't want to loose the no oil pressure warning feature. I could wire this pressure switch to the over temp light on the dash since I replaced this with a digital temp guage so the over temp dash light is unused at the moment.
2. Inside the crankcase, under the oil pump cover, sits a spring over a steel ball. See pics. This must regulate oil pump pressure. It seems odd to me that there is a gap between the spring and the oil pump cover. Does this gap seem correct? I guess that it could be to insure some zero pressure flow before it gets reduced by the spring???? I don't recall ever seeing another set up with a gap though.
Many thanks, Mike
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By etimc
I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans. The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost hidden by the throttle body and idle control system - I have unplugged it, sprayed it with contact cleaner, checked the pins, tried to get a resistance reading across the sensor, reconnected it and still get a blinking red light on the display panel warning of high temperature - this occurs even when the buggy is still cold having just started it in the morning - I have not been able to trace out the other end of the cable on the display panel since it appears i will have to remove the entire front plastic to get to it - hoping i could confirm the resistance before i go to that step (this is the same buggy originally posted by Jim Magnuson last September when the spark arrestor overheated and burned the plastic pickup bed - I fixed that by removing and cleaning the spark arrestor and it has never glowed red again. I would really like to put a guage in place of the digital idiot light since (from experience in automobiles) by the time the idiot light goes on you have already damaged the engine - Which brings the second question - would it be advisable to swap the front radiator sensor for a real sensor and then jumper the fans to always on condition at the connector so the computer contentedly thinks everything is working and it is doing its job ?
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