Quantcast
Jump to content

Fuel Sender


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Has anyone replaced there fuel sender yet? My fuel gauge was reading full all the time even when i was out of gas. I replaced the gauge and still had the same problem so i checked the fuel sender and sure enough the unit was broken. I need to replace it and didn't want to get another stock unit if there is a better set up out there. Any input would be appreciated...

Thanks,

Randy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Has anyone replaced there fuel sender yet? My fuel gauge was reading full all the time even when i was out of gas. I replaced the gauge and still had the same problem so i checked the fuel sender and sure enough the unit was broken. I need to replace it and didn't want to get another stock unit if there is a better set up out there. Any input would be appreciated...

Thanks,

Randy

I rebuilt rocmoc's sender quite a while back and I'm thinking to build a capacitive gauge one of these days, in the meantime, you can send yours to me and I'll rebuild for cost + postage if you want. Check your gauge by put a test light from the line going to the gauge and ground, if your test light has a small bulb in it use a tail light bulb or a quick short to ground. Should read full. At 47ohm resistor to ground is full, 77ohm is 3/4, 97 ohm is 1/2, 107 ohm is 1/4, and 110 ohm is empty. Yep, said it wrong, 3 ohms is full, 13 ohms is 3/4, 23 ohms is 1/2, 63 ohm is 1/2, 110 ohms is empty.

PM me if you want.

Kinarfi

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I rebuilt rocmoc's sender quite a while back and I'm thinking to build a capacitive gauge one of these days, in the meantime, you can send yours to me and I'll rebuild for cost + postage if you want. Check your gauge by put a test light from the line going to the gauge and ground, if your test light has a small bulb in it use a tail light bulb or a quick short to ground. Should read full, a 47ohm resistor to ground is full, 77ohm is 3/4, 97 ohm is 1/2, 107 ohm is 1/4, and 110 ohm is empty.

PM me if you want.

Kinarfi

That would be good info to put in one of the pinned folders.

Thanks,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That would be good info to put in one of the pinned folders.

Thanks,

Will do, and I'll add this drawing that I already have in web shots. I also think I said it all backwards. Yep, I did, reread #2

2436734170104282158gXZENR_th.jpg

There is a magnetic float in the sender and as the gas level drops it closes the next reed switch down, then lets the upper switch open changing the resistance to ground for the gauge.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will do, and I'll add this drawing that I already have in web shots. I also think I said it all backwards. Yep, I did, reread #2

2436734170104282158gXZENR_th.jpg

There is a magnetic float in the sender and as the gas level drops it closes the next reed switch down, then lets the upper switch open changing the resistance to ground for the gauge.

another suggestion is pull the sender and check with an ohm meter and see if the float is stuck or if the reed switch is stuck or broken and shorted. You can steal a reed switch out of one of those security switches or order from Allied Electronics https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8080004, after soldering, put some epoxy on it.

Also, if it says full all the time, look for a short to ground in the wiring.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

another suggestion is pull the sender and check with an ohm meter and see if the float is stuck or if the reed switch is stuck or broken and shorted. You can steal a reed switch out of one of those security switches or order from Allied Electronics https://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8080004, after soldering, put some epoxy on it.

Also, if it says full all the time, look for a short to ground in the wiring.

Kinarfi

Yeah the epoxy used is very low quality...the epoxy has deteriorated and come loose and the maginet was getting stuck in there. even the switches are junk...they all stay closed....i tryed running the maginet up and down manually and they didn't open or close. took the ohm meter to them and got a 0 read. i would gladly send you the fuel sender Kinarfi if you can work some magic and get this thing working again...hopefully it's not too expensive for your services, but then again i have no problem paying good money if you can turn this unit into a quality sender. =)

Thanks,

Randy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah the epoxy used is very low quality...the epoxy has deteriorated and come loose and the maginet was getting stuck in there. even the switches are junk...they all stay closed....i tryed running the maginet up and down manually and they didn't open or close. took the ohm meter to them and got a 0 read. i would gladly send you the fuel sender Kinarfi if you can work some magic and get this thing working again...hopefully it's not too expensive for your services, but then again i have no problem paying good money if you can turn this unit into a quality sender. =)

Thanks,

Randy

When I was flying, instead of crashing, :( I looked into the capacitive fuel gauge for my plastic tanks, it amounts to two pieces of metal, 100 sq. in. or so about 1/16 apart immersed in the gas, as the level drops, the capacitance changes and that can be measure and translated into a voltage the gauge can use.

What I need is a source for the metal, ( a tube inside another tube) or an idea of how to make the capacitor, thinking about rolling two pieces of aluminum together with fish line separating them. It all needs to drop through the hole where the current gauge is. Any one have any suggestions?

I think this will be my next project.

Kinarfi

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was flying, instead of crashing, :( I looked into the capacitive fuel gauge for my plastic tanks, it amounts to two pieces of metal, 100 sq. in. or so about 1/16 apart immersed in the gas, as the level drops, the capacitance changes and that can be measure and translated into a voltage the gauge can use.

What I need is a source for the metal, ( a tube inside another tube) or an idea of how to make the capacitor, thinking about rolling two pieces of aluminum together with fish line separating them. It all needs to drop through the hole where the current gauge is. Any one have any suggestions?

I think this will be my next project.

Kinarfi

Kinarfi,

One other thing....the seal for the fuel sending unit has fallen apart and some of the pieces have fallen into the gas tank. Have you replaced this seal before or know what can be used to replace it?

Thanks,

Randy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I have been in the garage working on the capacitive fuel gauge electronic circuit and I think I'M finished with it, It works very well in real gas, very repeatable and only about an inch and a half in diameter. I'll take some photos and post them later today, I think it can go in where the old one is or be place in the center so it stays more constant when going up hill or down or side hill or level. At present, I plan to mount it in a cord grip, I rolled the aluminum around a 1/2" aluminum tube that will extend through the cord grip for attachment to the circuit. Just need to hook it up and make sure it's compatible with the Trooper's gas gauge.

Here's the design if anyone wants to make their own.

2767609630104110397PIGKIx_th.jpg 2099103130104110397EfvKyq_th.jpg 2318031920104110397bAIfyU_th.jpg Photos of capacitor and circuit board to follow.

If you roll your own aluminum, you will most likely have different values than I did which may need adjusting of some of the components. The aluminum I used was bought at Home Depot in the roofing dept then cut and trimmed to fit inside the tank. The aluminum, IMHO, need to be detempered by putting in an oven at high heat or in the barbecue, other wise it holds its shape to well, hard to roll and once rolled hard to unroll. If any one wants to build one and needs help, PM me, or if you want me to build you one, PM me.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been in the garage working on the capacitive fuel gauge electronic circuit and I think I'M finished with it, It works very well in real gas, very repeatable and only about an inch and a half in diameter. I'll take some photos and post them later today, I think it can go in where the old one is or be place in the center so it stays more constant when going up hill or down or side hill or level. At present, I plan to mount it in a cord grip, I rolled the aluminum around a 1/2" aluminum tube that will extend through the cord grip for attachment to the circuit. Just need to hook it up and make sure it's compatible with the Trooper's gas gauge.

Here's the design if anyone wants to make their own.

2767609630104110397PIGKIx_th.jpg 2099103130104110397EfvKyq_th.jpg Photos of capacitor and circuit board to follow.

If you roll your own aluminum, you will most likely have different values than I did which may need adjusting of some of the components. The aluminum I used was bought at Home Depot in the roofing dept then cut and trimmed to fit inside the tank. The aluminum, IMHO, need to be detempered by putting in an oven at high heat or in the barbecue, other wise it holds its shape to well, hard to roll and once rolled hard to unroll. If any one wants to build one and needs help, PM me, or if you want me to build you one, PM me.

Kinarfi

Sent the design to a Jim Weir who published the design I modified back in the middle of 2000 in Kitplanes magazine asking for his input and I received his comment today. His comment was

"Sorry, but I just can't comment on individual designs, ESPECIALLY on potentially explosive designs.

Jim"

Perhaps this is a warning that some of you may want to take to heart. To me, it opens another thread / discussion.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I finished messing with my Fuel gauge sender and it turns out that it is much, much less apt to start a fire than the factory setup!!! The factory set up can supply over a 1/10th of an amp and a little over 7 volts inside the tank. My set up can't supply any DC voltage and only a few thousandth of a volt of a sawtooth wave.

Anyway, here's the schematic and a picture of the circuit board, not installed yet, but will be shortly for more testing.

It's been another fun little project, and if interested, let me know.

Kinarfi

2767609630104110397PIGKIx_th.jpg 2099103130104110397EfvKyq_th.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinarfi, What is this Super Duper Moderator? What did you do to or for Admin?

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

That's a secret that only he & I will ever know, but I was so jealous of you for being a Super Moderator. I had to do something about it. So I did and now, I'm the only Super Duper Moderator there is, at least for now any way.

:P:lol:

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished my fuel sender probe and circuit and adjusted it, may need some more tweaking, but it's good for now. I emptied the tank, took photo, added 1/2 gallon, took photo, added 1/2 gallon, took photo, ....... until full. It got full sooner than I expected. I was expecting to put 10 or 11 gallons in, but at about 7 3/4, it started over flowing, so I looked up the specs and the book says 30 Liters, = 7.92 gallons.

Here's a link to the first of a bunch photos, the first 3 are of the probe prior to putting connectors on.

2194273220104110397lhthNm_th.jpg

Here's the link to pictures of gauge after adding gas, 1/2 gallon at a time.

2728695300104110397uHBxwW_th.jpg

The name of the photo is how many 1/2 gallons are in the tank.

Now, to perfect my cruise/engine speed controller.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished my fuel sender probe and circuit and adjusted it, may need some more tweaking, but it's good for now. I emptied the tank, took photo, added 1/2 gallon, took photo, added 1/2 gallon, took photo, ....... until full. It got full sooner than I expected. I was expecting to put 10 or 11 gallons in, but at about 7 3/4, it started over flowing, so I looked up the specs and the book says 30 Liters, = 7.92 gallons.

Here's a link to the first of a bunch photos, the first 3 are of the probe prior to putting connectors on.

2194273220104110397lhthNm_th.jpg

Here's the link to pictures of gauge after adding gas, 1/2 gallon at a time.

2728695300104110397uHBxwW_th.jpg

The name of the photo is how many 1/2 gallons are in the tank.

Now, to perfect my cruise/engine speed controller.

Kinarfi

Nice Job Kinarfi.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinarfi, Most parts houses sale a universal sending unit, the old style with the float & arm. Can I use one of these, talking about the ohms? What is the ohm range of the gauge? I can physically make it work!

thanks,

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Super Super Double Dupper Mod.

Super Super Double Dupper??? Mod. :lol: If you play golf, Duffer would work. :P

2436734170104282158gXZENR_th.jpg

The left one is yours. Most universals that I googled go from 33 to 240, but the two links at the bottom would work. I'd use the first one and limit it's travel so you get the 110 ohms when empty. If you have too much resistance the needle will just hit the empty pin before your empty, if you don't have enough resistance, you never show empty unless you paint it on the glass face. If it doesn't go to 0 ohms, you don't show full, you can live with that, it's being empty that we care most about. http://www.jegs.com/i/VDO/918/226002/10002/-1 http://www.jegs.com/i/VDO/918/226008/10002/-1

Kinarfi, The Super Duper Moderator!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Hi sun 500
      hello everyone, i just joined this forum to try my luck, few days ago i bought an old (dont know exactly), 2011/14 hi sun 500cc ""carburated"",  was not running at the time, but i fell was a good deal and decided it to bring it home to play with it, this is the issue, i bought and installed a new carb, and pump, i repositioned the battery location and upgraded to a "car batt", reconnected the fuel lines and started it, but it only runs with the choke ON, i checked the bowl, it does have fuel,but for some reason wont inject it to run, i came across a video that say that ""the body small tank had to be connected for the cart to run" (was deleted when bought), sure enough i got it to run sporadically , but the so called ""small body tank'' often runs out of fuel and wont refill itself , i had to couple times do it manually, so how does that small tank works ?..what does it do?..and why if  bypass it , the cart wont start?....any help?..thanks so much!!!
    • By skittle021
      So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
      To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
      Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
      Photos: 
       





    • By nods
      Less than 40 miles can barely start. Dealer is working with Hisun on a number of other issues on this UTV. Can not get clear info on the meaning of these E codes this is getting. Anybody have some clear info for me?
    • By weasel
      starts up you have keep rpms up for 5 minutes till it warms up then runs fine. But if it stalls wont start unless you unplug fuel pump and hold it to the floor till it starts then plug pump back in and run it till it warms up then it is fine all day.
    • By LindaCall60
      Purchased a 2011 bighorn banchee. Needs motor work. Not sure what. Husband is mechanic but not computer savvy. So, is there a manual that will tell him how to tear this down?  We have down loaded a service manual, but he says it doesn't tell him what he is looking for. 
×
×
  • Create New...