Quantcast
Jump to content

Larger oil pan, frame change and skid plate


Lenny
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have done a number of things to my Trooper over the past months and am now trying to get caught up on posting. As we all know, hot oil seems to drop the oil pressure considerably leaving us concerned for our engine. To help the oil stay cooler I built a larger aluminum oil pan and now hold 9 quarts and has a drain plug that reaches out where I can easily get at it. The oil pressure does stay much better. It still drops down but not as far. I also removed the frame tubing that runs front to rear under the right side of the engine. I wanted to convert it to a bolt in frame section so I can remove the oil pan without removing the engine. Now I can do a lot of work to the engine lif necessary because I can completely dismantle it while it's in the Trooper. The new frame member is part of my skid plate. The plate is a piece of 3/8" thick aluminum with another 1/2" aluminum plate welded to it directly under the diff. The plate bolts on real tight and becomes a strong structural part of the frame. Prior to this I had a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum plate under the diff. This worked fine until I went through a dip with a rock sticking out of the ground. The Troopers diff hit the rock quite hard as the suspension compressed. The hit put a hexagon shaped hole in the plate from the drain plug on the diff. It took the hit but I decided it needed more. Now I can do the same dip and the skid plate bounces over the rock without damage other then a gouge in the plate. The one pic shows the top side of the plate with the frame replacement bar as part of the skid plate. Also where I placed the strip of steel shows where a bracket goes that holds the lower side of the differential. When the plate is removed, the bottom of the engine along with the diff have nothing under them. Makes for easy servicing.

2302193510104282158ENxPOB_th.jpg, 2996778380104282158knwvPb_th.jpg, 2773311220104282158rHEpAT_th.jpg, 2546363280104282158ezkaoy_th.jpg, 2323378690104282158OIMJbB_th.jpg

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Heidi Wilmoth
      You will quickly see that I am new to this and don't quite know how to pose this question. I gave myself a Coleman 400 UTV for my 65th  birthday a month ago."To Yaya: From Yaya" I've noticed a couple issues. First, as I drive around our acreage, sometimes it just putters, almost sounds like it's going to turn off. The other issue is the lights on the dashboard that correspond with forward, neutral and reverse don't match up to the actual gear. Sometimes it does but most of the time it doesn't. What I mean is that when I put it in forward to drive, the reverse light will be on the dashboard light. Sometimes it will be the forward light. When I put it in Neutral, sometimes the light on the dashboard /N lights up and sometimes it doesn't. Lastly the gas gauge does not register. Although the tank is almost full, it shows E / Empty.
    • By BeachBuggy
      Massimo Buck 250 less than a year old.  900 miles on it.  Live on beach in TX...i.e. corrosive salt air and normally mild temps.
      The story - one day, it randomly quit on idle and was tough to restart.  Next day, it occasionally cut out for 1-2 seconds while driving, then catch back to normal throttle.  Pumped gas pedal, not sure if that helped it catch.  Added some marine sta-bil and filled tank.  Ran well after that for a day.  Following day, wouldn't start.  Turns over, cranks, but won't start.  When it quit on idle that was the first time driven since we did have a freeze of ~25 degrees.
      Full charge on battery. No spark.  Changed plug and still no spark.  Fuses look good, but fuse connection box has some loose clasps and spade were corroded. I bent clasps best I could and used dielectric on spades re-inserted.  Cleaned and checked every connection I could find.  Don't have a card reader to hook up, but did swapped ECU just to check that, and no change...after swapping ECU the engine light now stays on.  Previously blinked and then goes away.
      Under warranty but service place is 2 hrs away. 
      thanks!
       
    • By Jon Spruill
      Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
    • By Psparr
      Coleman ut700. (Hisun). 
      leaking from the output shaft from engine. Parts diagram shows the nut, metal washer, then the flange coupler. However when I took it apart, there was what was left of a plastic bushing. Assuming it seals between the washer and splines shaft. But the parts diagram doesn’t show this plastic part. What gives? Thanks in advance. 


    • By cliffhodges
      Hi All- Long time reader, first time posting.  I have a 2016 Mule 4010 (model: KAF 620V).  I am having an issue since overloading the payload a couple days ago (yes I'm a dummy).  I live on a very hilly property and I was trying to move some large oak rounds for firewood splitting.  I put WAY too much wood in the bed and when I started driving, it sputtered, kicked out of gear, and then cut out.  I unloaded all the weight and started it again - appeared to be running fine when idling and/or driving on flat ground at slow speed.  But when try to go fast or uphill, the RPM's rev high and it sounds like the motor is fine, but it has ZERO speed or power at all (literally creeps uphill at like 2-3 mph and won' go faster or take any weight), and has no power at all.
      Other info: 3 weeks ago I did a belt replacement.  So I was worried I perhaps screwed that up somehow. But I just opened the clutch housing to check and the belt and clutch appear to be working just fine.... sooo.....
      Any ideas what I screwed up by overloading payload and immediately trying to drive uphill?  Any tips would be greatly appreciated!  
       
       
  • Gallery Images

×
×
  • Create New...