By Heidi Wilmoth
You will quickly see that I am new to this and don't quite know how to pose this question. I gave myself a Coleman 400 UTV for my 65th birthday a month ago."To Yaya: From Yaya" I've noticed a couple issues. First, as I drive around our acreage, sometimes it just putters, almost sounds like it's going to turn off. The other issue is the lights on the dashboard that correspond with forward, neutral and reverse don't match up to the actual gear. Sometimes it does but most of the time it doesn't. What I mean is that when I put it in forward to drive, the reverse light will be on the dashboard light. Sometimes it will be the forward light. When I put it in Neutral, sometimes the light on the dashboard /N lights up and sometimes it doesn't. Lastly the gas gauge does not register. Although the tank is almost full, it shows E / Empty.
Massimo Buck 250 less than a year old. 900 miles on it. Live on beach in TX...i.e. corrosive salt air and normally mild temps.
The story - one day, it randomly quit on idle and was tough to restart. Next day, it occasionally cut out for 1-2 seconds while driving, then catch back to normal throttle. Pumped gas pedal, not sure if that helped it catch. Added some marine sta-bil and filled tank. Ran well after that for a day. Following day, wouldn't start. Turns over, cranks, but won't start. When it quit on idle that was the first time driven since we did have a freeze of ~25 degrees.
Full charge on battery. No spark. Changed plug and still no spark. Fuses look good, but fuse connection box has some loose clasps and spade were corroded. I bent clasps best I could and used dielectric on spades re-inserted. Cleaned and checked every connection I could find. Don't have a card reader to hook up, but did swapped ECU just to check that, and no change...after swapping ECU the engine light now stays on. Previously blinked and then goes away.
Under warranty but service place is 2 hrs away.
By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
Coleman ut700. (Hisun).
leaking from the output shaft from engine. Parts diagram shows the nut, metal washer, then the flange coupler. However when I took it apart, there was what was left of a plastic bushing. Assuming it seals between the washer and splines shaft. But the parts diagram doesn’t show this plastic part. What gives? Thanks in advance.
Hi All- Long time reader, first time posting. I have a 2016 Mule 4010 (model: KAF 620V). I am having an issue since overloading the payload a couple days ago (yes I'm a dummy). I live on a very hilly property and I was trying to move some large oak rounds for firewood splitting. I put WAY too much wood in the bed and when I started driving, it sputtered, kicked out of gear, and then cut out. I unloaded all the weight and started it again - appeared to be running fine when idling and/or driving on flat ground at slow speed. But when try to go fast or uphill, the RPM's rev high and it sounds like the motor is fine, but it has ZERO speed or power at all (literally creeps uphill at like 2-3 mph and won' go faster or take any weight), and has no power at all.
Other info: 3 weeks ago I did a belt replacement. So I was worried I perhaps screwed that up somehow. But I just opened the clutch housing to check and the belt and clutch appear to be working just fine.... sooo.....
Any ideas what I screwed up by overloading payload and immediately trying to drive uphill? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!