Quantcast
Jump to content


2018 Hisun Sector Crew 1000 engine die after about 15 minutes run


Go to solution Solved by Hugh,

Recommended Posts

My 2018 Hisun sector crew engine cut off after about 15 minutes run. There is no indicator of what is wrong, no error code just die and won't restart until it cool down. I notice that the fan is not running but the temp indicator is on low temp, no overheat indicator. I checked the radiator fluid, it is cool to touch.

Cooling fans are working, I can hear it running once awhile if I can get the engine warm up enough.  Thank you for all the help.

 

Hugh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/11/2024 at 10:16 AM, Hugh said:

I have a AXIS that started to do the same thing after 100 hours (brand new). I use premium Ethanol Free fuel. It would die after 15 minutes and wouldn't start until it cooled off. I changed Fuel filter first and it wouldn't start at all after that. I changed spark plug after that and still will not start. Very frustrating. I'm in line to take it to have it serviced but this is frustrating with only 100 miles on it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Solution

Quick update on the issue and resolution.

I went ahead and replace the crankcase sensor along with both of the ignition coils. We took the UTV out for about an hour over the weekend without any stall. So I think the problem is fixed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I wasn't able to verified for spark but it acted the same way. I read on car forum about the crank position sensor causing the same issue as what I seen on my UTV. Since the part is not that expensive and difficult to get to, I went ahead and replace them anyway. Once that replaced, everything work fine and the engine seem to be a little more responsive and less noisy as well. We took it out a few more times for couple trips over an hour ride at the time. No problem so far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Follow up on my issue. I took it to a HISUN certified repair shop and it took these guys 3-4 hours of troubleshooting to figure out what was wrong because it was sporadic (I get it...if you can't get consistency with the issue and  recreate it, it is hard to diagnose). The issue with mine was an obvious QA issue from the manufacture (I only have 100 miles on it). The plug for the fuel injector power was not plugged in all the way so sometimes it worked and other times it didn't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By BuggyBoy
      So these Giant 48v/110ah batteries have just become available: https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/giant-100ah-48v-lithium-golf-cart-deep-cycle-battery
      They look like they could drop in either side of the Controller that sits in the middle of the tray as they are 330mm(W) 355(L) 295mm(H). They can be paralleled, and I think two should be enough. Technically once paralleled the system should output 400ah continuous and 800ah Max (5 secs), more than enough for the E1 - probably 1/3rd more than is needed.
      However, the sales person stated that if the regen braking exceeded 400amps, it would put the batteries in standby mode for protection and they would have to be 're-started' with a jumper pack to reset them. Does anybody know the max output of the E1 Regen system, and if it does exceed that, is it possible to disable/bypass the regen so it has a zero output?
      Thanks.
       
    • By Smith5961
      2020 550 Coleman.   have a fault code 118   And I’ve replaced the sensor I have spark but still doesn’t crank 
    • By Bryan83c
      Need input on compatible clutch sets I can upgrade joyner 1100cc 2018 sand viper with.    Something autozone might carry  and what cars are these chery motors most compatibility with
    • By darth vadner
      I have a 2019 hi sun 750 I parked it in my garage last fall and about a month later I went to ride it and I had no power but the battery shows good. I’ve taken the ignition switch out and cleaned it. I cleaned the battery terminals and replace the main relay all my fuses are good. I still show strong battery but get no power, can anyone help or have any ideas? I have yet to find any wires chewed up like from a mouse or anything all the wiring looks good. 
×
×
  • Create New...