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By rdc
I have a 2007 Joyner 1100 sand viper and before it even get's to where the thermostat opens up the oil pressure get's so low I have to shut it down. What could fix this ? I thought about adding an oil cooler with fan, thicker oil, or removing the thermostat. Any advice?
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By nrggaragebuilds
2004 250DL DIRT DEVIL. Hey y’all, I already know this is a long shot. But I am looking for a the “prick gear” assembly that makes reverse work for my external reverse gearbox. OEM PN D250.08.103 and its assembly. I bought the kart as a basket case, but I saw that the reverse box was present so I was optimistic. Upon starting working on the buggy I realized there was a block off plate in plate of there the normal gear would be. If my understanding is correct that means the transmission no longer has reverse gear. I figured it’s just a standard bevel gear and I could probably find a gear to make work, but I don’t want to spend the time making all the other housing parts to shim the gear perfectly. Has anyone spare parts, or figured out an aftermarket solution from McMaster? I already know it’ll be a challenge to get this box to be happy again, but figured I would ask
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By Cliffampranch
Hi All,
I have a 14 mile round trip on level roads to reach the property where I work with my 2025 Amp Crew Ranch (purchased, April 2026). That 14 mile round trip uses 60% of the battery as shown on the gage for a calculated range of 23.3 miles versus an advertised “up to 50 miles” range. A mile or two working on the property gets me a flashing gage and warning beeping by the time I get home. The dealer was good to work with and even with a new battery (yesterday) the results were about the same, although there seemed to be more power and a higher top speed. I own a Mach-e Mustang so I am familiar with how various conditions affect range, but less than 50% of advertised range just seems like there has to be something out of whack.
Now I’m wondering if there is a controller and/or software issue affecting the range and performance. At various points the Amp seems to lose power for no reason and then has trouble maintaining speed. Any ideas?
Also, twice now, the brakes seem to have not released fully. After noticing reduced speed, I stopped and check the rotors and wheel…..HOT! So, now every time I feel less power, I stopped to cycle the brakes and check the temperature. Very annoying. Are there any adjustments to be had?
And yes, as noted in another post, sometimes the switching from forward to reverse or high to low speed feels sluggish or balky.
Lastly, while an electric vehicle powertrain is quiet, my Amp was horrible from a road noise and vibration standpoint. This was easily fixed by locating panels vibrating on other panels or the frame (even the cup holders were vibrating) and installing felt adhesive pads at the contact points (seat to frame, windshield to frame, fenders to frame, etc.). This is a $10 and 1/2 hour fix that makes a significant improvement in the driver/passenger experience. Tire noise, yes, but that’s because of the knobby tread.
I’m trying hard to like my Amp and would appreciate any tips, advice or solutions.
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By rdc
Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
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By 180gtr
Parting out a rolled Sand viper 1100. I will list some of the parts I have, otherwise ask me if there is something specific you are looking for. I am selling everything I have for $800. I am located near Glenwood Springs CO.
SOLD ITEMS, I do not have these items.
Wheels
Tires
Engine
Transmission
Axles
Shocks
Control Arms
Things I have....These all came off of the running engine. I have video of it running if anyone needs to verify that.
Throttle Body $90
Starter $150
Alternator $150
Fuel rail, injectors, fpr $100
fuel pump $70
Map Sensor $50
Full set of Guages $150
Exhaust w cat, O2 SOLD
Ignition Coil - SOLD
Wiring harness and ecu SOLD
Radiator, shroud, elec fan, overflow tank $200
Fuel tank w sender $150 Has dent at base of fuel neck, no leaks
I have a box full of misc bolts, nuts, etc.
I will sell the Chassis or Frame alone for $200. The chassis is in pretty good shape, needs some cage repair and 2 areas straightened where control arms mount. If anyone had an automotive frame machine it would take a few hours.
That would include....
Brake calipers, lines, pedal, master cyl, E brake assy,
Steering shaft, wheel
Ignition switch, key
Light bar frame, 2 lights
misc hardware, spindles
2 hubs, rotors
Engine mounts
Throttle pedal, cables
Shifter, cables
Clutch master, pedal
I am sure I am forgetting something.
I am parting this out of ebay right now, I just picked up another project and could use the room. No I will not take less than $700 for all of it or $200 for the frame. I do not need to sell it, I will make far more parting it out but would like the extra space in the garage.
If interested I also have an 07 1000rr engine setup I would sell with the buggy for $650.
Thanks!
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