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By ChiefKen
I had read in a pass post that there was a modification for the gEarsheft level to help prevent slipping out of gear.
I check the parts list and the assembly is out of stock.
Is there a design for the modification?
Mine has been working fine up till the last week or so., and getting worse.
I have made the cable adjustment and it still will not stay engaged unless I apply pressure to the knob.
Has the modification been mass produced or is it design, up and weld?
thank you all for any information you can supply.
Update 30Sept2025
I contacted Alpha Sport. Com and asked if they had shift lever in stock has the modification made to their stock. They are unaware of any modification.
I made the modification myself. All went well, with the help of all the nots and photo in this group. Thanks to all their hard work.
The installation went well, too, except for one thing. The cable mount in the engine compartment, are (2) 19mm (might be wrong on size) nuts holding the cable in place, in front of the lever. Once I made the modification, the connection to the lever is very tight. Did I miss something. I believe the angle is too tight. Please advise
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By Dan_Lockwood
Hello again!
I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... !
It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time.
I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions.
On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly.
Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly.
I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end.
Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.
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By HighSon
Haven't posted in a while since solving the excessive cabin noise issue, so I thought I would share a few upgrades to my Sector... Realize that this is driven daily on the street, so some of the mods are to make it more streetworthy.
Locking gas door.
Rear view mirror.
Modified windshield for better airflow in cabin.
Lowered and modified headrest bar for improved rear view. Tailgate protector.
Folding armrests.
Overhead utility rack. Keeps the interior cooler and dryer, too!
Folding rear seats.
Dust cover and seat protector.
If anyone wants links to the rear view mirror, seats, or arrests, let me know and I will post. But know that everything requires some level of fabrication. The utility rack was all custom built. Cheers!
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By dirtybird
I am in need of some advice. I jumped started this utv, and since then, it'll idle just fine, but the moment I give it throttle, it starts to bog pretty bad and wants to die. The moment im off the gas, it goes back to idling normal. I'm not sure what the issue could be exactly.
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By Jarrettj88
What are the wires on the ignition switch. Like what is the yellow for the red one for the purple one for thanks
Sent from my VS880PP using Tapatalk
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